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The culture of the cocktail

Posted on May 21, 2014 by Sonoma Valley Sun

I love that shake-ah, shake-ah noise: ice rattling ferociously in a stainless cocktail shaker.  The crunch-crunch sound of ice, fruit, citrus, herbs being muddled… all happy sounds of a cocktail being prepared.  The heady aromas of mint being crushed beneath sugar and lime, the glorious anticipation of some freezing cold deliciousness about to be placed on the coaster before me.

I adore a bartender that takes his job seriously.  Here is an artist, a craftsman, that strives for each sip of his creation to be the epitome, the ideal blending of bitter, of sweet, of herb, or liquor.  If he is vest-clad or possibly sporting a waxed and twisted handlebar mustache only betters the experience of drinking somehow.  His crisp white shirt rolled high to expose arms made strong by the constant overhead thrusts of the shaker, the pounding of the wooden muddler.

The perfect bartender will fake the hello of a long lost friend if he doesn’t know your acquaintance, but will call you by your name if he does and have your “usual” almost ready by the time you’ve settled onto your stool.

Zinc or polished wood-topped, the ideal bar sits perfectly at elbow level, hooks for your bag, stools comfy enough that you’ll yearn to linger, but never be too cozy that you pass out and fall off.  My most heavenly bar might sport taxidermy  — ok. it will definitely sport taxidermy — or oversized, antique mirrors.  Atmospheric tunes will most certainly be played, as a well-stocked juke box is always appreciated.  There will be games for diversion, but a television is not required.  Juices will definitely be fresh squeezed, and liquors, particularly the bourbon, will be thoughtfully sourced and thoroughly drinkable.

Each cocktail must be crafted expertly and presented simply.  There will be small nibbles prepared with drinking in mind, a snack that cushions the belly and is fun to share, and makes my mouth say, “Sure, I’d love another.”  Warm, creamy dips or fresh, smashed guacamole scooped up with salty chips, for example.

All foods in miniature are epic; meaty beef sliders oozing cheese, or tiny meatballs eaten with picks.  There is nothing yummier than a massive pile of wonderfully greasy, wonderfully salty frites, made even more wonderful with the addition of, say, fluffy grated parmesan or a fat-filled garlicky aioli.  Move over wine, it is cocktail time.


What I am sipping now: Whiskey Smash

Inspired by the ridiculously refreshing cocktail prepared by the charming bartenders at the Underwood Bistro, this slightly sweet mixture of bourbon, crushed lemon, and mint is utterly the ideal sipper for hot-hot Sonoma summer days.  Concoct a pitcher, be with the people you love most, possibly throw some Van Morrison on the Bose, and avoid doing anything that even remotely involves responsibility.

Ingredients

  • Half of a lemon, cut into three pieces
  • One large handful of fresh mint, stems removed
  • 2 ounces simple syrup
  • 3 ounces good Bourbon, such as Hooker’s House
  • Tons of ice, preferably crushed

In a pint glass, muddle the lemon with the mint and simple syrup until the kitchen is filled with the scent of summer.  Add the bourbon and a small handful of ice.  Shake ferociously and pour over more ice into a fresh pint glass.  Drink, allowing your mind to be happily blown.


Cocktails in Wine Country

When the temperature rises, there is no amount of chilled white wine that could quench my thirst.  While lounging poolside, I require ice and plenty of it.  I crave a drink that speaks of the islands, sweet fruit, the bracing acidity of lime, generous glugs of dark rum or tequila.  Or, I might possibly need a minty, bourbon-filled julep, tons of crushed ice, fancy and freezing in a silver cup.  Wine Country-inspired cocktails are dreamy, sipped while the late Sonoma sun turns the backyard golden.  Local fruits and citrus like fig or Meyer lemon make beautiful liquors, boozy renditions of traditional offerings like vodka or whiskey often aged in used wine barrels.

No matter drink of choice, there are many opportunities to give your mouth a break from grapes and order a craft cocktail in Wine Country.  Here are a few of my favorite spots:

 The Underwood Bistro, Graton

In the teeny, tiny town of Graton, there sits a bar straight out of my dreams.  The Underwood is a restaurant person’s restaurant that could only exist in Wine Country.  The U-shaped bar is long and immeasurably cozy, cushiony banquettes or comfy stools are all magical spots to refuel between West County wine tasting or to escape the sameness that can sometimes be Sonoma.  Sidle up next to a winemaker or vineyard worker and order a selection of small, lovingly prepared snacks, bistro fare, or maybe their heavenly cheese-topped burger.  Definitely consider one of their crazy delicious cocktail creations such as the pink grapefruit and tequila-filled Salty Chihuahua or my current cocktail obsession, the Whiskey Smash.  (See the recipe below.)

Eldorado Kitchen, Sonoma

The charming guys behind the bar at EDK are constantly whipping up some of Sonoma’s most gorgeous fruit and spice-filled cocktails.  It always feels festive in the bar here, drinks arriving beautifully garnished and lovingly concocted with house-made bitters and elixirs.  Whether you’re cuddling up at a candlelit table for two or under the fig tree on a sunny Sunday afternoon, there is a perfect drink with your name on it, just be sure and order the fries!

the girl and the fig, Sonoma

If you’re fortunate enough to score a seat at the always crowded, antique, wooden bar here, you will be treated to the most Wine Country of cocktails.  Many ingredients from the mint to the fig liquor is locally produced and crafted into interesting, scrumptious sips.  Pair whatever cocktail you choose with a selection of gorgeous charcuterie painstakingly made in-house or even a simple dish of herbed olives and you might consider the renaming of Wine Country to Cocktail Country.

 The Thomas, Napa

Surprisingly, there are not many spots to have a delicious drink and something fun to nibble on with a view.  The rooftop bar at downtown Napa’s The Thomas is a gorgeous exception.  Old fashioned glassware, cut crystal tumblers, and perfect square ice cubes all make this open-air bar a see and be seen, hipster-filled drinking spot.  Add to the already perfect evening pretty plates of beautifully prepared food and you’re in heaven.




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