The last gasp of summer
Farewell summer. I do believe that summer has left us. Despite this past weekend’s warmth, the sun is beginning to appear especially golden, a bit of change in the air and the slight sound of rustling leaves. Apples and pears are replacing stone fruit and berries at the market. I find myself thinking of red wine and my favorite wool coat, hoping that I ate enough summer produce so I don’t regret it come January. The summer whizzed by in a flurry of festive food and wine filled events, gatherings, picnics and market outings. A season up to our ears in squash, corn in just about everything, tomatoes – finally! – and blackberries, blackberries, blackberries. Nothing is as evocative of summer to me than a blackberry. Summers spent in the mountains foraging for berries with my grandmother, one for me one for the basket, purple teeth and bramble scratches. A blackberry, sort of the ugly step sister of berries to the more regal raspberry or everybody’s favorite, the strawberry. For me, it’s all about the blackberry. More complex, tannic, sour-sweet. Just like they look, they taste darker, of a fruit that should grow among thorns, wild and nostalgic. I recently thought nothing more appropriate than to say farewell to summer in monumental fashion, with a send off and a salute, by visiting all of my secret spots and picking the last of summer’s precious blackberries. I used every last berry in what turned out to be an unforgettable rustic cobbler. And to me, that dessert, was a summer afternoon – a la mode.
Model winemakers. A little while back – glass of Chardonnay in hand, walking a vineyard – I heard a story. Like anyone, I like a good story. The man telling the story was not just recanting the tale, but his whole being was occupied by this account. The effect was entirely mesmerizing. The history, the parable so riveting you could not help but to hang on to every word. The story? Well, it involved a historic passage at sea, smuggled grapevines, adventure-seeking wine pioneers, occasional outlaws and even a touch of danger, bootlegging and – gasp! – a brothel. The story revolved around Emil Dresel, the son of a German winemaker, who left his home with Jacob Bundschu and arrived in California in 1858 to make his fortune as an American winemaker. Adventure ensued and winemaking history occurred. The storyteller was Andrew Mariani, who along with his two partners – all GQ model look-a-likes – are carefully restoring the historic Dresel land just south of Gundlach Bundschu into the famed vineyard it once was. The three are beyond passionate about maintaining the soulful character of the property, especially in the careful restoration of the stunning 100-year-old Hacienda. Some pretty cool things are happening on this land and some pretty extraordinary wines are being made here as well. When Andrew finished his story, I wanted to linger there in the past and stay awhile. Until I realized at the new Scribe Estate, you can do just that. Possibly with a chilled bottle of Sylvaner. Scribe Estate is located at 2300 Napa Road. While not open for walk-in tastings, you can call 939.1858 to make an appointment. Better yet, do what I did and join the Scribe Viticultural Society where you will have VIP privileges and invitations to events, complimentary wine tastings and special pricing on wine. Even better than that, the first 100 members to join are automatically enrolled in the Rogue Registry, where you’ll have first access to dinners, barrel tastings and organic produce from the Scribe gardens! Check out www.scribewinery for more details.
On the Menu. Wow! Harvest season is upon us and there are many events in which to celebrate the amazing bounty of wonderful wine and food in Sonoma. Tonight, an event not to be missed: Estate Restaurant’s Small Plate Tomato Dinner! Beginning at 4:30 p.m. in the restaurant’s gardens at Imagery Winery with wine, nibbles and chat with Colby about biodynamic gardening and then moving to the atmospheric patio at Estate for a seemingly endless parade of delicious sounding tomato inspired dishes. Call Estate to reserve your space at 933.3663. • Friday, September 17, from 4:30 to 7 p.m. head over to the Plaza’s amazing clay pot cookery shop, Bram, for a book signing with Deborah Krasner. Paula Wolfert will be on hand to introduce the author of Good Meat, Krasner’s comprehensive guide to sourcing and enjoying sustainable meat. Bram is located at 493 1st Street West, on the Plaza. Call 935.3717 for details. • The Sonoma Springs Bicycle Festival takes place in Depot Park from 11 a.m. through 3 p.m., Saturday. Fun for the whole family, but also serious deliciousness in the form of barbecued pork sandwiches from Cochon Volant. • Also on Saturday from 9 a.m. to 3 p.m. the Sonoma Garden Park is having a Plant Sale. They’ll have a nice selection of fall vegetable starts and plenty of natives. While you’re there, pick up some fresh produce and Nix Chix eggs! The Garden Park is located at 19996 7th Street East. • Celebrate the harvest all weekend during the Sonoma Valley Crush weekend. The Weekend Harvest Tasting Pass is $45 for two days of wine-filled fun, access to activities and tastings at sixteen tasting rooms. Additionally, book unique Harvest Events separately. Find more information at www.heartofsonomavalley.com or call 866.794.9463.
