Hey good lookin’ whatcha got cookin’?
It hadn’t dawned on me until very recently that whenever my life gets a little tough, a little sad, a little rough, I instinctually end up in the kitchen. So, it happens that this past, very difficult year, the kitchen has literally saved my sanity on more than one occasion. Long Sundays spent braising and chopping, stirring and sifting, have been truly restorative. It was one of those meditative afternoons recently, chin deep in a gargantuan pot of roasted tomato-duck ragu, that it dawned on me that life is a lot like cooking and I have learned many a valuable lesson with wooden spoon in-hand. It was just such an “ah-ha moment” in which I realized that following the very same principals that can make a person a successful, passionate cook can very well help them lead a successful, passionate life as well. It was in the kitchen during one of those really tough stretches of my last year, just about the time that life seemed to be a little too overwhelming, I realized the following life lessons and, for about the millionth time in my life, food just made everything all right again.
Sometimes just follow the darn recipe
I have never been a recipe follower, not in the kitchen and not in life. The “standard life formula” – the minivan, the kids, three cats in the yard – I guess just wasn’t destined to be my thing. I think I may have learned this lesson in the grocery store as a kid. Oh yes, I loved the grocery store! I would get downright giddy the moment the doors would slide open, a gush of frigid air conditioned air blasting me smack in the face, instantly drying my damp summer soaked Florida skin. I would rush from the produce department to the bakery and back, under the harsh florescent lights, excitedly grabbing whatever exotic ingredient I hadn’t yet discovered, eager to get home and create a meal off the cuff with my newfound treasures. While all the other kids were baking cookies with mom, meticulously following the exact directions on the back of the Tollhouse chocolate chip bag, I was creating what I hoped would be a cookie masterpiece by throwing in a handful of this or a random chunk of that. I have always lived, like I cook, by intuition, putting this and that together often with great success, and very often with disastrous result. Living life on a whim, going with the flow, oh sure it’s great and all, but if life in the kitchen has taught me anything this year, it is that by sometimes following the rules, playing by the (cook)book, using a recipe…it yields some pretty great results. Every now and then, measure, use a tried and true formula, consider the science, or else your soufflé will more than likely fall.
Always make a shopping list
More than twenty years later, I still go to the market – have continued to walk through life – looking for unexpected inspiration in the artfully staked piles of veggies or rows of eye catching labels, looking for what looks good and counting on it to taste good when I get it home. I am still that kid excitedly tossing everything that appeals to me in the cart and, as in life, I sure do end up with a cartful of delicious things, but not always what I actually went to the store for, not entirely what I was hungry for. This is the year I will make a list. Sure, I will never stop finding joy in discovering that unforeseen yummy thing, but from now on I will put down on paper each and every thing I need, exactly everything I am looking for, am hoping to find…for my life and for the kitchen. From that exact brand of Greek yogurt I crave and my favorite good French sea salt, to the ideal super flat, soft leather boots, to the requirements for my perfect home, and for everything I hope to find in the next great love of my life. For all of this, I will make a list.
A bad meal is just that, not the end of the world
I have been reduced to tears, a pathetic, blubbering mess, by bad food. It is simply too easy to get your hopes up for the perfect meal, something you were so badly hoping would be epic, flawless. Food, typically, only being a very small part of the equation, but the whole experience of a meal that meant so very much. Maybe a birthday at your favorite, fancy restaurant, that turned into a disaster, or possibly that time you slaved away for days for a dinner party with the in-laws, resulting in a super-charred slab of pricey beef or a dessert that would never set up. I have recently learned that one yucky meal, one unfortunate experience, need not be the end of the world. That lost reservation or bout of horrible service can transport you from what you thought was your favorite restaurant to the little, unknown café down the street where the atmosphere is more romantic, the staff endlessly charming, and the thoughtful, lovely food is more delicious than any you’ve ever had the pleasure of discovering before. So, chalk up those disheartening times – whether food related or not – to experiences that help ultimately lead you to a way yummier life.
Sometimes you just need to let it go
Life. It isn’t always easy, is it? There are times when being good, being healthy, sticking to your diet, abiding by the rules is simply overrated. That’s when I believe it’s okay, almost a requirement, to go ahead and indulge. The world won’t stop spinning if, on the rare occasion, you fall off the wagon. This year, I won’t regret a single morning that I blew off the gym while cuddling in bed instead. We all go through rough patches when you should just go ahead and polish off the whole bottle or lick all the batter off the spoon. There are the days when you need to finish the whole stinking pint. Order that twice baked, loaded potato and why not get an extra side of load? Just deep fry that fish and why not eschew the skim milk and add a good glug of cream instead? When the going gets tough, never ever feel guilty for having that bigger piece of birthday cake and whatever you do, just go ahead and dig into the bread basket – slather on the butter! – order the pasta, don’t forget dessert, and be sure to eat it all and then you must lick the bowl!
Duck Ragu
Recipe by Mario Batali
This recipe makes a generous six-eight servings, but make extra since it freezes beautifully. Toss with fresh or dried pasta or serve over polenta.
4 duck legs and thighs, skin removed
4 tablespoons virgin olive oil
1 medium Spanish onion chopped into 1/4-inch dice
1 medium carrot, peeled and finely chopped
2 cloves of garlic, peeled and thinly sliced
1 stalk celery, chopped into 1/4-inch dice
8 ounces red wine (Chianti preferred)
1 pound canned tomatoes, peeled whole
1 cup chicken stock
1 ounce dried porcini mushrooms
Wash duck legs and remove all fat. Pat dry. In a thick bottomed casserole or Dutch oven heat olive oil until smoking. Add duck legs and cook until brown on all sides and remove, about 10 to 12 minutes. Add onion, carrot, garlic and celery and cook until softened, about 7 to 9 minutes. Add wine, tomatoes, chicken stock and dried mushrooms and bring to a boil. Add duck legs and return to boil, lower heat, cover and allow to simmer for 1 hour. Remove duck legs and allow to cool. Pull all meat off the bones and return to pot, without the bones. Simmer uncovered for 30 minutes, or until quite thick. Season with salt and pepper.
On The Menu
The Sunflower hosts it’s monthly, “First Friday Artist Reception” on September 7, between 5 and 7 p.m. This month enjoy complimentary wine sips courtesy of Dutton Estate, live acoustic music by one of Sonoma’s favorite local bands, Joyride, and ogle art by Will Combs. Also, don’t forget about the Caffe’s fabulous Happy Hour daily from 3 to 4 p.m. and Friday thru Sunday from 3 to 6 p.m. where select glasses of wine are $5, beer is $2, and tasty nibbles are super affordable. Call the Sunflower for more information at 996.6645
A couple of fun events are coming up at the new ANNEX Wine Bar. Every Wednesday in September, from 4 to 6 pm is “Yappy Hour.” Bring your dog, or come and watch other dogs for canine fun while enjoying Loyal Companion Chardonnay at $5 per glass and contribute to Pets Lifeline. This Thursday, September 6 from 4 to 6 pm is “Visiting Vintner” where you’ll meet winemaker, Tony Coturri, proprietor of Coturri Winery. Tony will talk about organic and biodynamic vineyard practices in his old world winery inspired by his Tuscan Grandfather. Tony will also sign bottles purchased. For more information on these and other happenings at ANNEX, visit them at 865 West Napa Street or call 938.7482.
Head to the coolest little vineyard in Sonoma for Little Vineyard’s “Jammin’ in the Vineyards” on Thursday, September 13. From 5 to 8 p.m. enjoy live music by Rich and Josh Little, Dave Ronconi, and Bill Nelson while sipping wine and enjoying gorgeous valley views. Little Vineyards is located in Glen Ellen at 15188 Sonoma Highway. For more information, visit littlevineyards.com or call 996.2750.
On Sunday, September 16, experience the annual “Kathmandu Festival” held at the Sonoma Veteran’s Memorial Building from 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. This always fun festival celebrates the exotic sights, sounds, and flavors of Nepal and the Himalayans through food, music and dance performances. Visit childrensmedaid.org/kathmandu-festival or call 938.1807 for all the details.
Kristin Jorgensen is one of Sonoma’s most passionate, food obsessed residents. In this weekly column, she covers all the delicious happenings, foodie events and restaurants in Sonoma, the rest of Wine Country and beyond. Find her blogging daily as the Cook at thecardiganandcook.com or via email at [email protected].
