The holidays – a little bitter, mostly sweet

I have a love-hate relationship with the holidays.  As the weather turns cold and the leaves are all but gone from the trees and the sky is the most gorgeous oyster shell gray, the holidays arrive and turn these days from peaceful and cozy to ones full of chaos and stress.

Just about the time that Wine Country has it’s first opportunity to just breathe, to rest and recuperate from harvest, from the busy visitor season… watch out, here come the holidays.  As these steely, wet days settle in, I want nothing more then to hunker down at home, fire crackling, stinky cheese gloriously coming to room temperature on the kitchen counter, a crusty Della Fattoria baguette waiting patiently in it’s rustic, brown paper bag, and the merry sound of an icy-cold bottle of bubbly popping happily.

The thought of fighting grouchy crowds of shoppers at the mall, all frantically purchasing something, anything, for someone who won’t use it, doesn’t need it, and more than likely doesn’t want it, just makes me immensely sad.

The part I truly adore about the holidays is the good excuse to gather with dear friends. I can’t get enough of toasty little get-togethers, friends arriving bundled up in long scarves and soft sweaters, accepting their longer-than-usual hugs and lots of kisses at the door.  The sound of tinkling glassware and laughter is lovelier than any gift I would ever wish to receive.

Hikes with loved ones are also heavenly, even when the weather turns; branches loaded with scarlet berries and pine boughs heavy with last night’s rain, with the air smelling of earth and dirt. Walking with arms intertwined, chatting, stopping to admire the trees, empty but for a dozen elegant persimmons hanging there or the amazing rushing of a creek that was completely dry only days before, I am reminded of what the holidays are truly about.

The food though, that is what the holidays are about for me.  The best part for sure.  Dinner crammed around my old wooden table, watching my group of friends as they eat and laugh, I fall in love with them again, with this place.  I can’t think of a more heavenly gift than sharing a simple meal, maybe roast chicken and root vegetables, a huge salad of local greens, or a big pile of Dungeness crabs and (more than likely) several bottles of wine made, amazingly, by someone at that very table.

Last minute to-dos at a comfy restaurant in town are always so festive, a treat, even if it’s simply shared appetizers and pitchers of beer.  When we have one of those bright blue, cloudless days with the sun low in the sky casting a warm, golden hue, it’s the perfect opportunity to invite anyone who is available to gather miscellaneous goodies from their fridge, from their pantry, and meet in the Plaza for an impromptu winter picnic.

Ultimately, I have everything I need.  Don’t we all?  A tin of homemade butter cookies, on the other hand, yes please!  A little crate filled with sweet tangerines from the tree of a friend or an interesting jar picked up at the Church Mouse and filled with brandied plums made from scratch is always loved and appreciated.  A bunch of gloriously colored kale from the garden or a homemade loaf of bread tied with twine could easily bring tears to my eyes this time of year.  Like I said, I have a love-hate relationship with the holidays. Mostly, it turns out, love.

Checking the chefs’ gift list

I asked local chefs, “What is your favorite food or cooking related gift that you love to give and/or would love to receive as a gift?”  Here are their delicious responses:

Mike Zakowski [the bejkr] “As a youngster, my family always made ‘Kolach’ and ‘Kieffle’ for the holidays.  I used to make these with my grandmother and my mom.  Kolach is a Hungarian nut roll or poppyseed roll.  I’m sure there are many different interpretations, but we used to make a yeasted dough and put in either a walnut and raisin filling or a poppyseed filling.  Kieffle is a sour cream dough (no yeast) that is rolled out and filled with a filling of walnut, whipped egg white, and powdered sugar and shaped like a crescent.  Its super light and delicate, Yum!  I have given these in the past for the holidays to friends.”

Chef Sarah Pinkin. “I’m hoping Santa brings me a Vitamix (blender) for Christmas.  It’s supposed to be amazing for making purees, soups, cocktails and even different types of flours.  I can’t wait to take it for a spin!”

Chef Andrew Wilson, Carneros Bistro. “I switch from clear liquor in summer to brown liquor in fall and winter — Bourbon and Rye.  As I enjoy Manhattan cocktails, I love to give and receive brandy soaked cherries.  Nothing takes up the flavor and sophistication level of a Manhattan cocktail like replacing the usual soda fountain, day-glow maraschino cherry with a real, honest to goodness, brandy soaked cherry.”

Chef John McReynolds, Stone Edge Farm. “My favorites to give are a Benrinner (a Japanese mandolin) a food mill, an immersion blender, and a potato ricer; all essential tools in a kitchen that most cooks won’t buy for themselves.  My favorites to get are real balsamic in little bottles, good extra virgin olive oil, and flavored sea salts.”

Chef Ari Weiswasser, Glen Ellen Star. “My favorite food related holiday gift to receive is chocolate covered peppermint bark.  I think nothing represents the holidays better than a glazed ham!  And, we just so happen to be featuring a wood oven glazed ham for December!”

Chef Norman Owens, Hot Box Grill. “Most people love to make sauces, and most do not know how. A good gift to help solve the mystery of sauces is: “Sauces, by James Peterson.” A cookbook or a subscription to a food-related magazine are usually safe bets.

Chef Rob Larman, Cochon Volant. “The most delicious gift I can think to gift is a ‘risotto kit’ complete with artisanal arborio rice, a big hunk of Parmigiano-Reggiano, and a really good bottle of local olive oil.  I would most love for someone to gift me a big, white Italian truffle!  Then, I would love to help make that risotto and shave my truffle generously all over the top!”

My Mom’s Fruitcake

I know! Fruitcake, gross!  But, no!  My mom’s fruitcake is sticky and crunchy and filled with all sorts of sweet goodness.  Every holiday season, this cake sat in the fridge or on the kitchen counter and we would shave off thin slices for breakfast, snacks or evening dessert with after-dinner drinks.  I promise, it will become a tradition in your home too!

• 1 pound of crushed Graham Cracker crumbs
• 1 pound of chopped and toasted pecans, plus a few whole ones for garnish
• 16 oz. jar of cherries, drained and halved, reserve syrup (Maraschino cherries are traditional, but fancy brandy soaked cherries from Whole Foods are even better!)
• 1 pound of raisins
• 1 pound of shredded coconut
• 1 can of sweetened condensed milk

In a large bowl (or in the kitchen sink, as my dad used to do) mix together all the ingredients until well combined.  Drizzle the condensed milk over the entire mixture and using your hands, mix and mix until the milk has been thoroughly incorporated into the rest of the ingredients.  Almost kneading it until everything is combined.  Add a very small amount of the cherry syrup to moisten the mixture and continue to combine.  Add the mixture a little at a time into your bread pan(s) or ring mold and using a heavy can or other object, press down the mixture until it’s compact.  Continue to do this until you’ve used all the mixture.  Chill overnight.  To serve, simply cut into slices.  Makes 1 large or 2 small cakes

Note: The consistency of this fruitcake is not typical “cake” consistency.  It’s a bit sticky and candy-like.

On the menu

Thru December 24, visit the Envolve tasting room to taste their favorite wines in which to pair with your holiday meals with its Holiday Meal Wine Flight for $10.  Visitors can also take advantage of discounts on six or more bottles and case purchases. It is located in the new wine alley at 27 East Napa Street, on the Plaza. Visit Envolvewinery.com for more information,

There are many wonderful festivities at the Fairmont Mission Inn for the holidays.  Bring the kids for Lunch with Santa every Saturday in December from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. at The Big 3 Diner.  Sip signature Holiday Cocktails in the cozy Lobby Bar, such as the Mistletoe Martini, Hot Buttered Rum, or a Sparkling Apple Pie.  There is live holiday music on Friday and Saturday evenings from 5 p.m. to 6 p.m. featuring local school bands, choral groups and musicians.

Join CornerStone Sonoma on Thursdays thru December 20 for Thursday Late Nights in the Crystal Grove and see this year’s fun, holiday snowmen display.  During these festive evenings, attendees can also check out the live music, artist lectures, trunk shows, hot toddies, generous discounts on fine wine, free tastings and complimentary dessert with dinner at Park 121.  Visit cornerstonesonoma.com for more details.

Kristin Jorgensen is one of Sonoma’s most passionate, food obsessed residents. In this weekly column, she covers all the delicious happenings, foodie events and restaurants in Sonoma, the rest of Wine Country and beyond.  Email her with comments, questions, or your food related events at [email protected].