In praise of olive

As the recent torrential rains remind us of the possibility of many cold, grey days still to come this winter, I am strangely not at all sad.  We have so many delicious reasons to love our Northern California winters!  Besides the fact that it’s still Dungeness crab season and that we have many cozy opportunities to hunker down in front of a fire, glass of red wine in hand, it’s also the time of year that we get to celebrate Sonoma’s second most delicious crop.

The Sonoma Valley Visitors Bureau organizes the celebration of all things olive, appropriately coined “The Olive Season,” and after three-months of festivities, seminars, tastings and events, the Finale Weekend is upon us.

I have such special memories of our Olive Season, since I moved to Sonoma during the olive-filled months.  Only a few days after feeling settled, I excitedly attended the Blessing of the Olives at the Mission, solidifying my conviction that I’d truly moved to heaven.  Here is what I wrote seven long years ago:

Awakening to a morning such as this puts a person in a certain frame of mind.  With perfectly blue skies and thin air, I set aside the tedium of unpacking and shuffling around furniture to experience a Saturday in true Sonoma fashion by frittering away the day procuring veggies, sipping wine, strolling the Plaza.  With fall and the grape harvest behind us — I say ‘us’ like we just stomped our own or something — December brings the olive harvest.  Who knew?  Everywhere you go in Sonoma olive trees hang heavily over the sidewalks and streets, pelting you with the occasional fat, black berry.  Originally I thought they were for show until I saw a family in their suburban front yard on ladders gently picking theirs.  I decided to attend the annual Blessing of the Olives, which takes place in the last of the twenty-one historic California Missions.  The simple structure of stucco was happily filled with locals-in-the know, enjoying coffee in the chilly morning air while listening to the stirring sounds of a local Mariachi band.  A priest bedecked in head-to-toe olive-embroidery did the honors and declared the harvest a blessed success with a prayer and an elementary shaking of a holy water soaked olive branch.  From what I understand, olives were one of the crucial plantings of the earliest Spanish missionaries.  The oil was vital for many reasons including medicinal remedies and religious rites.  A nonprofit group is now on the case to save the earliest of these trees that were planted more than a hundred years ago and mostly endangered of being paved over to make room for more horrid Walmart stores.  There I sat, in that historic chapel surrounded by my fellow Sonomans, and truly felt I was amongst friends; other folk who would cheerfully spend a chunk of their sacred Saturday praying for a higher power to smile down on their salads.

I simply adore living in a town so utterly filled with deliciousness, not to mention a million great occasions to throw a party or even a whole multi-month long festival.  Experiencing a meal where not only what is in your glass is from right over there, but so are the chicken and the greens, prepared with the most gorgeous, green olive oil.  Also, from right here!  Sonoma’s second harvest is certainly a worthy cause for celebration.

Must-have ingredient: New oil

Olio Nuovo is easily one of the most exciting parts of the annual olive harvest.  This “new oil” is the freshest possible olive oil you can find, practically like drinking milk straight from the cow!  It has a deep green color, is a bit cloudy and has a super peppery, pleasantly bitter burst of fresh olive taste.  It is also potentially the healthiest of olive oils, delivering the highest level of polyphenols.  This fresh oil is bottled immediately after the olives are pressed, unlike typical olive oil, which is allowed to settle so fruit particles, and other sediment is separated.

Sadly, Olio Nuovo is a fleeting treat.  The oil must be used within a short, few months because those delicious particles have the possibility of fermenting.  Right now, most of our local producers offer an Olio Nuovo on an extremely limited basis.  This is not oil to cook with.  It’s meant to be simply and generously drizzled and enjoyed for it’s outrageously fresh flavor.  It’s pure heaven when drizzled in a white bean soup or over rustic, grilled and garlic-rubbed bread, is also lovely over winter greens, and is absolute perfection on an avocado half, eaten straight from the skin with a spoon.  Look for Olio Nuovo locally at the Epicurean Connection, the Olive Press, B.R. Cohn, and at the Oxbow Public Marketplace.

Recipe: Tangerine olive oil cake

Make this cake on a cold, rainy day using lots of the beautiful wintertime citrus available right now.  You truly could use any citrus flavored olive oil or combination of fresh citrus; Meyer lemon would be super yummy!  No matter the weather, this sunshiny cake will brighten your belly.

• 5 eggs
• 1 1/4 cup sugar
• Zest of one tangerine
• Juice of one tangerine
• 1 cup tangerine infused olive oil (If you do not have citrus-infused olive oil add 1 extra teaspoon of tangerine zest to batter)
• 2 cups flour, sifted
• 1 1/4 teaspoon baking powder
• 1 teaspoon salt

For the glaze:

• 3/4 cup powder sugar
• 3 tablespoons water
• 2 teaspoons tangerine zest

Preheat oven to 325 degrees. Oil and flour a Bundt or angel food pan, set aside.  In a medium bowl using electric mixer beat eggs, sugar, tangerine zest and juice until combined.  Slowly add the olive oil and beat until creamy.  Add the flour, baking powder and salt and continue to mix until combined.  Pour into pan and let bake for 40 to 45 minutes or until knife inserted in the center comes out clean.  Allow to cool on wire rack Once cooled make glaze.  Combine powder sugar, water and zest in a small bowl, stir to combine.  Add more water or more sugar to achieve desired glaze consistency.  Drizzle over cake and serve.

Favorite olive oil producer: McEvoy Ranch

McEvoy Ranch is a truly breathtaking olive farm, located just west of Petaluma: 550 acres of pure heaven.  Most of us are familiar with the amazing olive oil produced from the ranch’s 80,000 Tuscan trees.  It is ridiculously scrumptious, right?  No matter what I tend to glug this vibrant, green oil over, it is practically life-changing.  I love the pretty square bottle, the thoughtful red wax emblem, the bright graphics on the box.  The whole package makes an amazingly thoughtful present or hostess gift, especially to yourself!  Did you know that you can visit this spectacular property?  Each summer season, there are garden and orchard tours that should not be missed.  McEvoy’s small handful of tours sell out quickly, so don’t hesitate if you’re interested in attending any this coming season.  It will surely be an experience you will not soon forget!  Keep checking on line at mcevoyranch.com to find out the 2014 offerings.

Sonoma Valley Olive Season: Finale Weekend

There are many enjoyable opportunities to experience the last hurrah of the Olive Season this weekend, particularly the grand finale, the “VinOlivo Grand Tasting” held annually at the Lodge at Sonoma.  This rollicking evening always overflows with local wines and creative bites from area restaurants, caterers and artisans.  Find a list of my picks for the weekend below.

The Grand Tasting

Held on February 14, from 7 p.m. to 10 p.m. at the Lodge at Sonoma, the VinOlivo fundraiser is a unique opportunity to sip Sonoma Valley’s best wines, nibble on an array gourmet goodies such at just-fried frites, a massive olive bar, and plenty of other local nibbles.  $75 General Admission in advance, $95 VIP, and $85 at the door.  Call 935.0803 or visit sonomavalleywine.com.

Ticket to Sonoma Valley

This three-day event runs from February 15 thru February 17, with a 3-day ticket costing $50 and a 1-day ticket is $25.  This Ticket to Sonoma Valley gives guests special access to over 40 Sonoma Valley wineries to enjoy at their own pace.  Ticket holders will receive a menu of special offers that differ from winery to winery including complimentary tastings, discounted wine purchases, barrel tastings, or winery tours. 935.0803. Sonomavalleywine.com.

An Olive Odyssey at Jacuzzi Family Vineyards

Experience the olive in old world style with Don Landis and a unique gathering of olive enthusiasts at An Olive Odyssey on February 15 and 16, from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m.  Olive curers will be on-hand to offer samples of their special delicacies and to share their curing recipes in the stunning Tuscan courtyard at Jacuzzi Family Vineyards.  The Olive Press will offer tours of the olive mill, olive oil tastings, and a olive-themed gift shop to browse.  Olive authorities and olive tree experts will talk all about olives and answer questions.  Call 931-7500 or visit jacuzziwines.com for details.