How to Properly Install Drywall

Drywall comes as panels of pressed gypsum plaster sandwiched between heavy paper. Consumers choose from four thicknesses when purchasing this product. The heaviest drywall comes in 5/8″ panels and provides the highest level of soundproofing. Individuals looking to cover an existing wall often select 3/8″ drywall, while those looking to cover a curved wall or arch typically select 1/4″ drywall. What should a person know when working with this material?

Insider Tips

• Aim for the fewest seams possible between pieces. Work with large panels and pieces to minimize taping and mudding drywall.
• Gather all materials before beginning to minimize delays.
• Always use a screw gun and adjust it to the proper depth. 
• Practice on scrap pieces to get the technique right before actually installing drywall.
• Ensure the drywall is tight against the wall to avoid screw heads popping through. 
• Install solid backing so the edges of the drywall have something to connect to. 
• Remove screws that miss the framing.
• Prepare the room by putting nail protector plates over plumbing and electrical lines to avoid any mishaps. 

Install the Drywall

Apply adhesive to studs so the drywall has something to hold it in place. Place the first sheet horizontally so the sides align with the vertical studs. Use nails to hold it in place until it is secured with screws. Install the next piece, leaving 1/4″ between pieces. Using ring drywall nails, tack this piece into place. Mark the studs to make screw placement easier. Install the screws, stopping when the screw head is just below the paper. Continue moving through the room until all panels are installed.

Special Considerations

Turn off the electricity before working in the room. Mark electrical boxes on the drywall and make the necessary cuts before installing the drywall. Ensure there is space around the electrical box. If the electrical box and drywall come into contact, the drywall may crack and break. 

When cutting out doors and windows, avoid creating a joint at a corner. Corner joints tend to crack with time. Avoid seams at window corners, as well. Never force pieces together at inside corners. Leave a 1/8″ gap to avoid crumbling and breakage. Fill the gap with the joint compound as the project progresses. 

Tape the Seams

Drywall seams must be taped to hide the gaps. Mesh tape works best for this purpose. It hides the seams better than paper tape. Cover vertical seams first using a drywall knife. Once those seams are finished, move to the horizontal seams, leaving the corner joints for last. 

Never overlap the tape. When a horizontal seam meets a vertical seam, stop taping. Cut the tape and start taping again on the other side of the vertical seam. 

Applying Joint Compound

Beginning with the vertical seams, apply pre-mixed joint compound, often referred to as mud, with a drywall knife over each piece of tape. Feather the edges by increasing the pressure and angle of the knife while moving the tool from the middle to the edges of the tape. This ensures the compound will be thinnest at the seam’s outer edges. When all vertical seams are complete, move to the horizontal seams. Again, leave the corner seams until the end. 

Applying the joint compound to an inside corner requires the use of a different technique. Apply joint compound to both sides of the corner. Take paper tape and crease it down the middle. Place the tape with your fingers and press it. Run the knife carefully down each side, and avoid cutting the tape when doing so. 

When applying joint compound to outside corners, apply a layer of compound to each side. Use paper beading cut to fit the wall’s height and press it into place with the fingers. Use the drywall knife to remove the excess compound by running the knife over this beading. 

Finish by coating all fasteners with joint compound. Allow this coat to dry for a minimum of 24 hours. 

The Fill Coat

Apply 3/16″ of joint compound over the first coat on the vertical seams. A 6″ drywall knife is ideal for this purpose. Switch to a 10″ drywall knife and feather the edges of the coat to allow the compound to blend with the wall. The finished coat should be 10 to 12″ wide. When doing an inside corner, use a 6″ drywall knife to feather the compound on one side. Leave the second side until the next coat. 

Move to a 10″ knife and apply compound to both sides of the outside corners. Feather the second layer beyond the first for blending purposes. Apply another coat of joint compound over the fasteners and allow the compound to dry for 24 hours. 

The Finish Coat

Sand all joints with 120-grit sandpaper. Reapply joint compound to all seams, feathering each edge. Finish all inside corners and apply another coat to the fasteners where needed. Allow this coat to dry for 24 hours and sand one more time. 

When sanding, wear goggles and a dust mask. In addition, open all windows and cover any doorways in the room with plastic to prevent the drywall dust from spreading to other parts of the home. Using a wet sponge or vacuum sander helps to keep this dust to a minimum. 

The Skim Coat

Professionals apply a skim coat to hide any rough spots. This requires the use of a special product designed specifically for this purpose. With a paint roller, apply this product to the joint compound. Remove any excess using a 12″ drywall knife. Wait 24 hours for the skim coat to dry and sand lightly. 

Prime and Paint the Walls

Apply drywall primer and allow it to dry according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Apply one or two coats of interior paint and admire the walls. 

Many homeowners find they prefer to leave this job to the professionals. It takes time and practice to do the job right. If you have one or more pieces of drywall that need to be hung or repaired, don’t hesitate to reach out. This is one job that must be done right. Any imperfections can decrease the value of the home, so leave this work to someone with the training and experience to do it right.