Sweet! Crisp Bake Shop opens this weekend
I pulled open the glass door and excitedly stepped into the new Crisp Bake Shop. I could hardly contain my delight as my eyes darted quickly from one thing to another, I could hardly stop myself from doing the “happy dance.” As I glanced around, taking in the clean, completely redesigned space, which housed Artisan Bakery for years, I immediately knew that this bakery was going to be something special. Cool artwork in pale, pastel colors are hung on crisp white walls, all accentuated nicely by the prettiest dark wood floors and custom cabinetry. I immediately fell in love with the oversized, rustic communal table, imagining many mornings lingering there breathing in the heavenly aromas of sugar and butter coming from the kitchen, sitting under the shop’s gorgeous copper lighting, a yummy, cup of dark, free trade Equator coffee and a pastry. A shimmering stainless case features the most adorable cakes, while tons of other goodies are stacked beautifully on top and in big shiny glass jars. A picture window was thoughtfully cut into the wall between the front of the shop and the kitchen so customers can ooh and ah over the chefs in back, all very cute sporting starched white coats, expertly frosting cakes and piping out colorful macaroons.
Moaya Scheiman and Andrea Koweek, the sweet couple behind Crisp, come from a long history in the restaurant and special events businesses. Moaya, worked for years with a handful of celebrated Bay Area restaurants and chefs, and even did a stint in Bangkok with his own restaurant. A talented pastry chef, Andrea last worked for many years with the girl and the fig heading up their catering and special events department. It was while working there that Andrea realized the need for a bakery in Sonoma specializing in chic Wine Country wedding cakes, thus Crisp was born. These cakes, which will be the foundation of the bakery’s business, are elegant renditions of classic cakes all inspired by seasonal produce, modern baking techniques and timeless flavors. Oh, did I say that they’re gorgeous?!
All of the imaginative creations coming from the shiny new Crisp kitchen are based on quintessential American sweets. Moaya is passionate about our country’s food history, especially the South’s. His eyes lit up excitedly when he spoke of his love for that part of the country’s cuisine. Although, the duo likes to rethink these classics, finding inspiration at the farmer’s markets, through trends in cutting-edge ingredients and particularly through the bounty of amazing, local Sonoma ingredients. Cellophane bags of peanut brittle toffee were completely addictive, made even more so by the addition of tiny bits of crispy bacon. Homemade marshmallows are so pretty, incredibly light and fluffy, completely lacking the fake industrial flavors of the grocery store kind. Yes, I ate almost the whole bag and I am not at all sorry. Cookies here are ridiculously buttery. While sinking my teeth happily into the shop’s version of an Oreo, the “black cocoa shortbread with vanilla bean crème,” my eyes literally rolled into the back of my head. Morning pastries are beautifully presented versions of the classics. A messy, crumbly coffee cake was intense with cinnamon and will more than likely become my go-to midmorning craving. A crystallized ginger scone is scone perfection – all buttery, crumbly goodness – and could most certainly sway long time devotees of Artisan’s delicious ginger scones. And, don’t you gluten-intolerant folks freak out…there will be scrumptious offerings for you too. Dietetic offerings? Not so much.
Yes, this is ultimately a bakeshop, but don’t think it’s all just sweet and sticky here. A lovely sounding menu of breakfast and lunch savories will include a few market-inspired salads that will surely change with the seasons, savory pastries and possibly a few hand pies. Although, the shop’s focus will always lean heavily towards the sweet side, a selection of unique sandwiches will be available everyday, some featuring homemade or locally produced charcuterie. Happily, breads for these sandwiches will eventually be produced in-house. I am already fantasizing about the concoctions that they just might come up with and maybe, just maybe someday I will be in the market for a wedding cake. Crisp Bake Shop is located at 720 West Napa Street. For more information, visit crispbakeshop.com. They are opening this Sunday, April 1 and their hours will be: seven days a week from 7 a.m. to 3 p.m.
On The Menu
Tomorrow, March 30, at 6:30 p.m., join the Community Café for another delicious, wine-filled winemaker dinner with Tom Meadowcroft of Meadowcroft Wines. The four-course meal consists of many scrumptious sounding dishes like fried oysters on greens with buttermilk dressing, a bacon-wrapped beef tenderloin with a Cabernet reduction and a molten chocolate cake, all perfectly paired with Meadowcroft wines. The Community Café’s winemaker dinners are always fun and always affordable. Tickets are $39.95, plus tax and gratuity. The seating is limited, so be sure to make your reservations soon by calling 938.7779.
• Several fun cooking classes and events are coming up at Ramekins. “An Elegant Spring Dinner,” with Joanne Weir takes place at Ramekins on Thursday, April 19. This intimate class, limited to twelve students, features a menu of spring delicacies from the James beard Award-winning chef. For information on this or all the other great cooking classes and events at Ramekins, or to reserve your space, call 933.0450 or visit ramekins.com.
• Andrea Davis, of Sonoma’s Quarter Acre Farm, is leading a class that any backyard garden enthusiast surely should not miss. On Sunday, April 1, from 10 a.m. until noon, her “Tasty Tomato Talk” is always incredibly informational and covers many unknown ways to ensure your tomatoes are the most delicious. The classes will be held at the Backlot Garden at 243 West Spain and the cost for each class is $10, which includes light refreshments. Reservations are necessary and can be made by emailing [email protected].
• On Saturday, April 14, head to ESTATE for a “Cooks with Books” luncheon event with Sondra Bernstein and Chef John Toulze celebrating the duo’s beautiful new book, “Plats du Jour: the girl and the fig’s Journey Through the Seasons in Wine Country.” The cost for lunch, wine and a signed book is $120 per person or $195 per couple. Call 415.927.0960 or visit bookpassage.com to make your necessary reservations.
What’s cookin’ Sonoma?
Pastry chef Addie Owens, wife of Norman Owens, the super talented owner and chef at the Hotbox Grill, is now baking the most outrageous chocolate chip cookies in town! Find them daily at the Epicurean Connection and at Sonoma’s Best, where they’re to die for with the shop’s killer Blue Bottle coffee.
• Just in time for Easter egg decorating, Nick Rupiper’s delicious, golden-yolked, local “Nix Chix” eggs are available at the Friday Farmer’s Market and now at Sonoma Market! Be sure to look for them at Sonoma Market in the egg department under the Fowler Creek Farm label.
• Mike [the bejkr] – our esteemed bread “Olympian” – just returned from a successful trip to France where he competed with the American team at the Coupe du Monde, the most prestigious bread baking competition on the planet. After three days of competition, Team USA placed second, taking home the coveted silver medal. Purchase Mike’s amazing breads most weeks at the Friday morning Farmer’s Market at Depot Park.
Chocolate, Peanut Toffee with Bacon
Recipe inspired by Crisp Bake Shop
Makes about 3 pounds
4 sticks (1 pound) unsalted butter, cut into pieces
2 cups sugar
1/4 teaspoon salt
4 cups whole cocktail peanuts plus 1 cup chopped (1 pound 10 ounces)
1/4 cup crisp bacon, chopped very fine
7 to 8 ounces 70%-cacao bittersweet chocolate, finely chopped
Equipment: a 15 x 10 x 1 inch baking pan; a candy thermometer; a metal offset spatula
Butter baking pan and put on a heatproof surface. Bring butter, sugar, and salt to a boil in a four to five quart heavy bottomed pot over medium-high heat, whisking until smooth, boil, stirring occasionally, until mixture is deep golden and registers 300°F (hard-crack stage) on thermometer, 15 to 20 minutes. Immediately stir in whole peanuts and bacon, then carefully pour hot toffee into center of baking pan. Spread with spatula, smoothing top, and let stand 1 minute. Next, immediately sprinkle chocolate on top on top. Let stand until chocolate is melted, 4 to 5 minutes, then spread over toffee with cleaned spatula. Sprinkle evenly with remaining chopped peanuts, then freeze until chocolate is firm, about 30 minutes. Break into pieces.
Note: Toffee keeps, layered between sheets of parchment paper, in an airtight container at cool room temperature 2 weeks.
Kristin Jorgensen is one of Sonoma’s most passionate, food obsessed residents. In this weekly column, she covers all the delicious happenings, foodie events and restaurants in Sonoma, the rest of Wine Country and beyond. Find her blogging daily as the Cook at thecardiganandcook.com or via email at [email protected].
