If I had to choose one wine to drink this time of year, especially in a relaxed and casual setting, it would be rosé. Hot weather calls for something refreshing and crisp, and although an un-oaked chardonnay or sauvignon blanc will do, there is something about the subtle aroma and fruit flavors of rosé that makes it a perfect wine.
Because rosé isn’t as popular as other wine varieties, it’s often overlooked, but if you’re looking for an extremely food-friendly wine, rosés are hard to beat. They complement flavors from seafood to burgers, and vegetarian entrees to spicy ethnic dishes. Their prices are reasonable, and although making rosé was initially an afterthought for many vineyards, more wineries are now focusing on improving the quality and characteristics of these wines.
“We are getting a lot more requests for rosés than in past years,“ said Rich Farnocchia of The Wine Exchange of Sonoma located on First Street East in Sonoma. “Especially this time of year when people are looking for something refreshing. The lighter styles of rosés that are being produced are so much better than the Central Coast rosé ‘box wines’ of the past.”
Rosé is the French word for pink, but the color of these wines ranges from orange to a dark reddish pink. Here is where rosés get a little tricky. The color, especially in past decades, was an indication of how good the wine was. If it was too pink or too orange it normally meant it was of poor quality or past its prime. My experience in most cases has been that orange-tinted rosés should be avoided, but various pink shades aren’t necessarily an indication of how the wine will taste.
Rosés are traditionally made from red grapes, and although here in California it’s more popular to use a single type of grape, it isn’t unusual for rosés to be a blend of different grapes. Because rosés get their color from the skins of the grapes, the color intensity depends on the grape variety and the length of time the skins are in contact with the juice. Short contact will produce a wine that’s almost white, while a long maceration time will make it almost red. The goal is to make a rosé that doesn’t turn red. The best rosés are made from pinot noir, grenache, cabernet franc and gamay grapes. Locally you’ll notice that syrah rosé is popular, but by no means does it have a monopoly. Some Sonoma wineries are choosing European grape varietals for their rosés with Gundlach Bundschu using Tempranillo and Muscardini Cellars using Sangiovese.
The style of rosé can be dramatically different between the Old and New World producers. In France, Italy and Spain, where the climates are cooler, rosés are light-textured and fruity, with more mineral characteristics. Rosés from New World warm-climate regions, such as here and Australia, have a tendency to be drier, more fruit forward, a little more complex and fuller bodied. But when buying rosé don’t count on any exact style and regional characteristic. Wineries around the world are very individual in making them.
Rosés still struggle with the consumer perception that because they are pink they are sweet. Although you can find a rosé of this style, they’re not typical. Reputation has also been an issue. Back in the 1960s, especially here in the United States, rosés were considered undesirable jug and flask wines that were flat and anonymous.
Rosé wine producers here and in other countries figured out that they needed to pay more attention to them. “In Italy and abroad there is now a rapidly spreading awareness of rosé because of its great versatility,” said Piero Mastroberardino, owner of Mastroberardino Winery in Southern Italy. “Our first rosé was produced in the 1970s, but in the last few years we focused on this wine, improving both packaging and quality. More wineries are adding them to their portfolios as the wine slowly and steadily becomes more popular with wine drinkers.”
Kunde Estate Winery has also discovered that rosé has a niche with their customers. “When people come to our tasting room they sometimes are initially reluctant to try the rosé,” stated Jody Stewart, Consumer Direct Manager at Kunde. “But they are always pleasantly surprised by how crisp, refreshing and approachable it is. It’s very popular and sells out quickly. We just released it and it will be gone by August.”
If you haven’t had an opportunity to try a rosé, now is the perfect time. Two things to remember: rosés should be served chilled, and they are meant to be consumed young, preferably within a year of purchase. I will mention that there are some great rosé champagnes and sparkling wines available, but that’s a whole other story.
Here are two terrific recipes that pair well with rosé. The first comes with permission to print it from “Rosé, A Guide to the World’s Most Versatile Wine” written by Santa Rosa author Jeff Morgan. The other is one of my favorite salmon recipes, followed by a list of rosés for you to try.
Pork Tenderloin with
Ancho Chili Sauce
1 teaspoon cumin seeds
5 dried ancho chilis
3 tablespoons canola oil
1 large onion, sliced
3 large garlic cloves, sliced
1 14-ounce can
low sodium chicken broth
1 teaspoon salt
1 pound pork tenderloin
cut into thin strips
In a small skillet over medium heat, toast the cumin seeds, stirring constantly until fragrant, 2 to 3 minutes. Set aside in a small bowl.
Using the same pan, raise the heat to high and press each chili onto the hot surface, first on one side and then on another, to sear for about 30 seconds per side (this “wakes up” the chilies making them more fragrant). Let them cool for a minute and then using your hands, pull them apart enough to empty them of their seeds. Discard the seeds and stems. Place the chilies in a bowl and fill with water to cover. Set aside to soak.
In a large sauté pan, heat 1 tablespoon of the oil over medium heat. Add the onion and cook until lightly browned, stirring occasionally to prevent burning, about 4 minutes. Stir in the garlic and the toasted cumin seeds and sauté for 2 more minutes, stirring occasionally.
Drain the chilies and add them to the pan, stirring for about 1 minute. Transfer the onion mixture to a blender. Add the broth and blend to a smooth puree. Transfer the puree to a saucepan, add salt and bring to a simmer. Add more salt to taste if desired. Turn off the heat, cover the pan and set aside.
In a large skillet, heat the remaining 2 tablespoons of oil over high heat. Add the pork, stirring occasionally to keep it from sticking, and cook until browned on all sides, about 3 minutes. Pour the chili sauce over the meat, reduce the heat to medium, and cook one more minute. Transfer to a serving platter. Serve with red beans and rice. Serves 6-8.
Roasted Salmon
1/4 cup pineapple juice
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
4 (6 oz.) salmon fillets or
whole 2 pound fillets
2 tablespoons brown sugar
4 teaspoons chili powder
2 teaspoons grated lemon rind
3/4 teaspoon cumin
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon cinnamon
Olive oil cooking spray
Lemon wedges (optional)
Combine first three ingredients in a Ziploc plastic bag; seal and marinate in refrigerator 1 hour, turning occasionally. Preheat oven to 400°F. Remove fish from bag and discard marinade. Combine sugar and next five ingredients in a bowl. Rub over fish.
Place on a cookie sheet coated with cooking spray. Bake at 400°F for 10-12 minutes or until the fish flakes easily with a fork. Serve with lemon wedges, if desired. Serves four.
Rosés to try:
2005 Gundlach Bundschu, Rhinefarm Vineyard Tempranillo Rosé, $20
2006 Kunde, Grenache Rosé $15
2006 Loxton, Vin Gris of Syrah Rosé $16
2006 Muscardini Cellars, Rosato di Sangiovese $18
2006 St. Francis, Sonoma County Rosé $16
We welcome your feedback. For general feedback or to contact one of our columnists, please visit the Contact Us page at www.sonomasun.com.
