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Cooking secrets of the chef

(Editor’s note: Chef John McReynolds, formerly of Sonoma’s Café LaHaye, most generously shares these truly valuable chef’s secrets with Sonoma Valley Sun readers. – Kathleen Hill)

Sometimes it’s the little things that make all the difference. The best cooks pay attention to the details and are not satisfied until a dish is tweaked to perfection. Below is a list of some of my favorite techniques in the kitchen that can elevate a dish from simple to simply spectacular.
1. Don’t be afraid of salt and pepper. I use plain sea salt or kosher salt and freshly ground Telicherry peppercorns. Meat benefits immensely from being pre-seasoned long before cooking. Whether as a dry-rub or as a brine, salt delivers succulence to meat. Bigger cuts of meat and whole chickens can be seasoned a day ahead. Smaller cuts can be seasoned just a few hours before cooking. Wake up grilled vegetables by marinating first in salt, pepper and olive oil for 20 minutes before grilling.
2. Acid is the knife that cuts through richness of food and perks it up. Sometimes a squeeze of lemon or a splash of Balsamic vinegar is all a dish needs to come out of its doldrums. Citrus and vinegars are the mainstays of the professional kitchen and are essential to making food exciting. Capers, olives and pickled vegetables also do the trick. Learn how to make the all-purpose Italian “salsa verde,” the chef’s favorite go-to sauce for everything.
3. Don’t forget about bitterness. A drizzle of green olive oil or a tassel of arugula may be just what that beautiful piece of salmon needs to elevate it to the next level. Grill radicchio or endive to add smoky bitterness to any dish.
4. Pan-roasting is one of the most important methods of cooking chops, chicken breasts or chunks of fish. Pre-heat the oven to 400°F and sear the meat or fish in a hot, ovenproof pan. Quickly brown on both sides and finish cooking in the oven.
5. Combine different textures and temperatures on the plate. I often add something raw to a cooked dish such as serving a shaved fennel slaw with a piece of fish or adding nuts or seeds to cooked vegetables for added crunch. Try a cool and creamy yogurt and cucumber dip with grilled vegetable kebabs or a bread, tomato and basil salad with roast chicken.
6. Roast nuts in a dry pan in the oven before chopping for salads or for sprinkling on oatmeal. This adds way more flavor without any more fat. Whole spices can also be toasted before grinding for an extra flavor boost. Toast grains and rice in the pot before adding liquid for nuttier flavor.
7. Learn to use the different temperatures in the oven. Braise meats such as lamb shanks or short ribs for a longer period of time at 250°F to 300°F. Roast whole chickens at 400°F to 450°F. Generally, the larger the piece of meat, the lower the oven temperature. Any kind of roast meat needs to rest out of the oven before slicing. This allows the juice to return to the center of the meat and not run all over the cutting board.
8. Chefs never prepare every aspect of the meal at the last minute. Try to have at least one or two parts of the meal already prepared.
9. Roasted vegetables are easy and satisfying. Toss a seasonal combination of thickly cut vegetables with olive oil, salt and pepper. Put in roasting pan and cover with foil. Cook for 30 minutes at 350° F. Uncover, and roast another 30 minutes or until soft and caramelized. They can be dressed and served as a warm salad or as-is with some chopped parsley or mint.
10. Taste and balance each dish. The biggest difference between a home cook and a chef is this final act of fine-tuning a dish. A little piece of butter swirled into a sauce at the last minute can round out the flavor. Tame down a too-acidy salad dressing by adding more salt or a little sugar. Taste everything again and adjust the seasonings. This is the biggest secret of all: To use all your senses and only be satisfied with the best food possible.