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Wine and the holidays

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Like many of you, in the days and weeks ahead I’ll be taking a little break from my normal routine to celebrate the season and to ring in the New Year. Being a winemaker during the holidays is a little like being a toymaker – it’s the time of year when your work really gets to shine. People who don’t normally drink wine tend to explore it a little bit more, and people who love wine indulge in the good stuff.
Here in the wine country, we are so deeply steeped in the culture of wine that it is easy to forget how mystifying, and at times intimidating, the world of wine can be. I’ve never been a fan of a highbrow, elitist approach to wine. Wine is about pleasure, enjoyment and sharing, and in this regard, it finds its greatest purpose during the holidays when it is surrounded by good food, family and friends.
A few bottles of fine wine are an essential part of a proper celebration. In our house, they get poured amidst laughter and good conversation as my two brothers and I work in the kitchen cooking our family’s holiday dinner. My take on holiday entertaining is fairly relaxed and informal. With some Miles Davis or Latin-influenced Ry Cooder playing in the background, everyone congregates in the kitchen – glasses of wine in hand – to watch as the cooks do their thing. With a nod to tradition, we’ll prepare a classic prime rib while indulging our more creative selves with such side dishes as red cabbage braised in merlot and balsamic, or roasted sweet potatoes with chives and lime syrup.
My approach to pairing wine and food is as relaxed, in many ways, as my take on entertaining. While tradition plays a part, ultimately it is about creating a satisfying and memorable experience. With this in mind, I thought I would offer a few thoughts on my approach to pairing food with the key varietals we make at MacRostie Winery and Vineyards.

Wine and food
I’ve spent decades creating wines that I think pair well with food. Wine grapes grown in cool conditions (like those of the Carneros and Sonoma Coast regions) tend to retain their acidity, and acidity as a part of a balanced wine can take the flavors of food to another level.
In contrast, massive wines with higher alcohols can often prove challenging from a pairing standpoint. Therefore, I look for balance in any varietal when partnering a wine with food. While most people have heard the old adage “red with meat, white with fish,” the big flavors of modern cuisine make many of the old rules obsolete. My recommendation is to explore the varietals and dishes you like to find your own inspired pairings. I won’t say there are no wrong answers, but it’s a fun process of discovery.

Chardonnay
The king of white varietals, a nice dry, moderately oaked Chardonnay with good acidity can pair with an amazing array of dishes, from white fish to salmon and poultry. Personally, I love chardonnay with lighter seafood in a lemon-butter sauce.

Pinot noir
Pinot is a remarkably versatile red that goes with everything from wild salmon to game birds, mushroom dishes and berry-based sauces. At my house we even pair pinot with dishes such as venison loin and rack of lamb.

Merlot
A classic holiday red, merlot is a natural alongside those centerpiece holiday dishes. Think roast beef and prime rib.

Syrah
Because syrah brings together a wealth of flavors, from spice and game to an inviting earthiness, it goes very well with a number of different foods. For vegetables, I like pairing it with cabbage and chard. It is also delicious with roast meats and game dishes.

A final thought – giving wine as a gift
Wine is always a welcome gift during the holidays. If you are going to a holiday party, chardonnay is a real crowd pleaser and pinot noir couldn’t be more popular right now. For serious gift-giving, collectible cellar-worthy reds ­– from pinot noir to cabernet sauvignon – always make an impact. Wine club subscriptions can make a fantastic present for the real wine lovers on your list, reminding the recipient just how fabulous you are every time a new shipment arrives.

Steve MacRostie is a renowned winemaker and the founder of MacRostie Winery and Vineyards. To learn more about MacRostie Winery, or to order any of its acclaimed wines as holiday gifts, visit www.macrostiewinery.com.