Sooner or later, almost anyone who falls under the spell of fine wine catches the collecting bug to one degree or another. As a self-described wine geek who has been in the wine business all of my working life, I can say with some confidence that there are few sensory experiences as pleasurable as savoring the subtlety and complexity of a well-aged wine. The finest older wines carry the fingerprints of renowned appellations, great vineyards, and master winemakers – essentially capturing a taste of history in a bottle. However, collecting also has its share of pitfalls. From overpriced (and sometimes underwhelming) trophy wines to over-aged clunkers, not all older wines live up to expectations. With this in mind, it makes sense to develop a few simple strategies to help navigate (and control) a potentially obsessive hobby.
I first became serious about collecting wine in the mid-1980s. As part of my early foray into collecting, I purchased vintage ports to celebrate the birth years (1983 and 1985) of my children. As my collection grew, I began to focus on the age-worthy wines that appealed to me most – in particular wines from Bordeaux and the Rhône, and several Italian wines, including Chianti, Barolo and Brunello. The slippery slope of collecting quickly became apparent, as I realized just how much money it was possible to spend on my new hobby. So I set up an annual budget for myself, taking into account several factors.
First, I looked at the number of wines I could realistically consume, knowing that many collectors buy far more than they can ever drink, leaving many wines to die sad, lonely deaths in the backs of dusty cellars. Next, I set a maximum price that I was willing to pay for any single bottle of wine. While I won’t say what this number is, it is well below the threshold for any “cult” wines. Ironically, instead of limiting me, this rule has made collecting even more fun, as it motivates me to search for those true “finds.” To stay within a realistic budget, I tend to buy three- or six-bottle lots (not cases) and I take advantage of “futures” offerings, which regularly have lower prices. I also look for standout wines from less hyped vintages. For example, I have found some great wines from the 2003 Bordeaux vintage, but I am not buying the precipitously priced 2005s.
Though many wines in my cellar were purchased for aging, some are intended for more near-term enjoyment. The truth is, many (if not most) wines nowadays aren’t made for the long haul. They are picked riper, and crafted to be softer and less tannic. While these wines can be lush and lovely in their youth, too often they become the proverbial faded rose with aging. To find the wines that have what it takes to age gracefully, I read lots of newsletters and industry publications, and I take recommendations from friends or wine buyers who have palates that I trust. But I also take advice with a grain of salt, because ultimately every palate is unique. For age-worthy reds I look for good acidity, extraction, complexity, richness and a certain mouth-coating quality. For whites, I also look for good acidity, combined with solid structure, depth of fruit, and not too much oak influence.
As a collector, I’ve also learned not to be too precious with my wines. A dinner with good friends is occasion enough for opening a special bottle, especially considering how often people hold on to a wine for too long, only to discover that it has gone over the cliff.
Finally, it is important to think about where you will store your wine. Heat, light, vibration, temperature fluctuation and excessive dryness are the enemies of wine. So needless to say, the cupboards above the fridge or beside the clothes dryer are not good storage choices. Ideally, the perfect place to store wine is a temperature controlled cellar, a cool basement, or a refrigerated cabinet. If such a perfect place is not an option, think cool, dark and still, and start collecting.
Steve MacRostie is a renowned winemaker and the founder of MacRostie Winery and Vineyards.
