I got the rare opportunity to sit down last week with Denny Lane, the owner and bartender of Maya, for a lesson on tequila. Lane considers himself a knowledgeable enthusiast or connoisseur, but not an expert. I cry semantics. Maya, located on Sonoma’s historic Plaza, carries over 136 different tequilas plus three mezcals, and specializes in Mayan cuisine and tequila-based adult beverages.
There’s a metric ton of information and myths surrounding tequila so let’s dispel a few myths right off the bat. Not all tequila is made the same, nor is it made from a cactus. Tequila refers to a fermentation, then distillation, of one species of agave plant, the Agave tequilana Weber (blue variety), within the borders of the Tequila region located primarily in the state of Jalisco. There are over 200 species of agave but only distillates made from blue agave within the tequila region is considered tequila. Tequila is an appellation just like Champagne, Bourbon or Carneros. Everything outside this limited region is mezcal. All tequila is mezcal, but not all mezcal is tequila. That brings us to another myth.
There is no worm in tequila. In fact, it is against the law to add a worm to tequila. A producer will add the worm to poor quality mescal usually as a marketing ploy. The theory goes that putting the whole, intact worm (actually the larvae of a moth found in the agave plant) in the bottle is proof of the mezcal’s high alcohol content. Eating the worm is more of a fraternity boy’s rite of passage than a distinguishing mark of a good mezcal. For the curious, the worm is edible and harmless and should be chewed for maximum effect (your face may go numb for a short while).
There are two basic designations of tequila, agave and mixto. Agave refers to 100 percent blue agave where mixto is 51 percent agave mixed with some other liquor usually rum. While many tequilas are mixto, the higher quality tequilas are 100 percent blue agave. Within these two designations are four classifications: Gold, Blanco (silver), Reposado and Anejo. Blanco requires no aging by law but can be aged up to 60 days in stainless steel barrels. Reposado must be aged for a minimum of two months in wooden barrels and Anejo is aged for a minimum of 12 months up to four years. Oddly, most distilleries use old bourbon barrels to age their tequilas. Jack Daniels, though not a bourbon (it is a Tennessee sour mash), is a major contributor to the tequila industry. Higher quality tequilas darken in color due to barrel aging while many mixtos and mezcals add caramel coloring to approximate aging.
Gold tequila is Blanco with caramel color added to make it gold. When you ask for gold tequila at a bar, you will usually be served Jose Cuervo. You can do better than that. Ask for their selection of Reposados or Anejos or just cut to the chase and order by brand, such as Cazadores or Don Julio. Lane’s favorite is Siete Leguas.
Visit Maya and ask the bartenders, namely Brian Gilliland or Enrique Padilla, what are their favorite tequilas. Maya has flights available, an informational binder and a logbook with your name longing to be on it that records all the tequilas you’ve tried there. Be the first of your friends to log in more than 100 tequilas. Maya’s style of service is inclusive and they have the vast resources and knowledge to help you learn more about this fascinating and often misunderstood spirit.
Here’s a recipe to try at home (or you can give up and leave it to the pros) courtesy of Denny Lane.
The Mayapolitan
In shaker with ice add
1½ oz Cazadores Blanco
½ oz Cointreau
juice of ½ lime
½ oz agave nectar (available at high end food stores)
1 oz blood orange juice (can be substituted for any fresh berry juice)
Shake vigorously, as if wolves were chasing you; then strain into a chilled cocktail glass. Garnish with lime wedge or blood orange slice. Bottoms up!
