Steps to creating wonderful summer salads

The world of salads begins with lettuces and leafy greens, which can be the simplest of preparations – just greens with salt, oil, and vinegar or lemon juice. The key to a simple leaf salad starts with choosing freshly picked greens. Next, fill a big bowl with cold water and add the lettuce. The greens should be freely floating and any damaged or discolored leaves discarded. Using your hands or a large Chinese strainer, gently transfer the leaves into a colander to drain. Ideally, you have a salad spinner to remove all the water. A successful salad must be perfectly dry. If you are using a large leaf lettuce, tear it up into manageable pieces, discarding the thick inner rib.
Greens are roughly divided between mild lettuces like red leaf, romaine and spinach, and the more assertive varieties such as arugula, cresses and members of the chicory family, including endive and radicchio. Some of the heartier leaves can be wilted in a pan or even grilled. The bitter or peppery nature of arugula and the chicories are a perfect match for grated cheese or toasted nuts, which balances the bitterness. Mix different greens together to create contrasts in taste and texture and to create your own personal salad. You can, of course, buy ready-made salad mixes at the farmers market or at the grocery store.
Vegetables, either cooked or raw, can be served alone as a salad or as a valuable component in leaf lettuce salads. It is crucial that raw vegetables are shaved, peeled, grated or finely chopped. Green vegetables such as asparagus, green beans and broccoli need to be blanched in boiling, salted water. Onions, peppers, fennel and squashes can be roasted in the oven or stir-fried. Grilled vegetables can add a smoky component to any salad. Leftover cooked vegetables from the night before can provide a base for salad the next day. Blanched vegetables such as asparagus or green beans can be roasted in the oven with olive oil and sea salt to create a warm aspect to vegetable salad.
Meat, cheese and mushrooms all add the fifth taste known as umami, which is important for salads that are going to be hearty enough to serve as a main course. Other umami-rich foods are sprouted beans, sweet potatoes, tomatoes and carrots, all of which add a savory character to salads.
The introduction of different textures can take a salad to a whole new level. Some crispy nuts or croutons provide a satisfying crunch, and a poached egg or some creamy burrata or mozzarella can elevate a salad into the sensual realm. Try shaving raw carrot or kohlrabi into a salad at the last minute, or add some capers, olives or pickled vegetables to get a blast of salt and a satisfying soft crunch.
The interplay of all the basic tastes – sweet, salty, bitter, sour and sometimes umami – is what makes salads exciting for me. Before I became a chef, I came up with a salad that perfectly expressed this need for balance. I learned how to make a classic French vinaigrette, with red wine vinegar, Dijon mustard and olive oil. I loved the salad, but over time, I started to make a few additions. First, it was shaved Parmesan cheese, then toasted walnuts, and finally raisins or other dried fruit. This salad captured all the basic tastes and is still one of my favorites.
When I am building a composed salad, I like to think like I’m an artist creating a painting. I first do the background, which is the lettuce or greens, dressed and plated. Next comes the secondary ingredients, such as cooked beans or shaved fennel, which I toss with salt, pepper, and more dressing and mound in the center of the plate. Now is the time for some bold accents; some shaved Pecorino cheese, segments of blood orange, and sliced picholine olives. And finally, some still warm toasted pine nuts, a few grindings of fresh pepper and a drizzle of basil oil. The art of making salads depends on great ingredients and a sense of measured abandon in putting them together. With practice, it can become second nature.