As the leaves in the valley turn into as many colors as a Vermont winter, various holidays approach. Unfortunately, Christmas has become the annual Saturnalia of spending, analyzing the
economics of retail business, saving the country by buying more than you need, the concern that every child gets an equal share, the competition of over-eating, and the miss-use of credit cards. ‘Twas not always so in the Valley of the Moon.
Electricity made its appearance in 1898 with the building of a Valley power plant, but it would be several years before most homes would be lit with Christmas tree lights, so Christmas trees were illuminated by candles which dripped wax and needed to be closely watched to ensure that a dangerous fire did not break out. Other decorations included imported German glass ornaments, some, home-made strings of popcorn alternated with cranberries.
By the 1920’s, toy electric trains became popular predecessors to today’s host of electronic toys and games. Christmas gifts were modest and young people were easily thrilled. A book, a doll or home-made dollhouse, a bicycle (an extravagance) was more than enough to satisfy young desires. Local seamstresses produced frocks for young girls and shoemakers created cowboy boots, saddles and other leather work. There was also a bookstore or two, a tinsmith, and a pair of general stores to attract gift shoppers.
Since Sonoma Valley was a rural area, the rise of the catalog as a means to purchase a wide variety of both practical goods and possible gifts in the 1890s became a significant element of country life. First, Sears Roebuck and then Montgomery Ward (what we used to call “Monkey Ward”) distributed thick catalogs crammed with thousands of items at reasonable prices, including supplies, clothes, sports equipment and toys. Each December, children would search through the catalog marking those items on their wish list no matter how unrealistic. Parents often had their own ideas. Later the young ones would gather around the big box that arrived with its mysterious contents, which Mom and Dad would rapidly squirrel away.
But local ministers, priests and church activists were ready to remind their flocks that Christmas was a religious–not commercial–celebration. For many people, midnight mass or long Christmas day services were the centerpieces of the holiday. The Sam Shainsky family hosted community Hanukkah services every year as well.
In a close community in which there were no neglected strangers, it was only natural that the holiday spirit meant helping those who could use practical assistance. Besides religious congregations and service clubs, the valley developed regular community activities. One such tradition is the annual Victorian Crafts Workshop at the Vallejo Home held in November for the past 19 years, sponsored by the State Historic Park Association.
Christmas was a family event. Once the railroads reached the valley in 1881, it became easier for families to travel from San Francisco by ferry to Marin County and then by rail to stops at Vineburg, the downtown plaza, and later in El Verano and Glen Ellen. Old-timers recall relatives arriving and being met and transported by carriage or cart to their homes or to one of the resorts to stay over the holidays. To meet grandparents, aunts, uncles, or cousins was much of the thrill of the yuletide season.
And there was the food. In an era in which the women of a family prepared meals at great length, the Christmas feast was the highlight of the year, rivaled only by Thanksgiving in importance. The vegetables, mashed potatoes, cranberry sauce and pies were often homegrown and home-baked. Italian families included raviolis, but no Catholic indulged in meat before midnight mass. On the platter of honor would be a roast goose or cured ham as likely as the turkey. Turkey was popular, but not totally “traditional” because it was stringier with much less white meat than in the modern version of the bird. In the 1940’s Sonoma geneticist George Nicholas (Nicholas Turkey Breeders) completed development of the deep-breasted, white meat-loaded, non-flying turkey, which has become the worldwide favorite.
This year recalling the spirit of Christmas and Hanukkah is more important than ever and the days of the past are well worth treasuring.
Since the early 20th Century, the Sebastiani, Scarafoni and Millerick families have been important to Sonoma’s agricultural development and heritage. Cooking and food were equally important, and “Noni Pini’s Raviolis” were key to Christmas dinner. Here is the ravioli recipe from Sylvia Sebastiani’s cookbook, “Mangiamo-The Sebastiani Family Cookbook.”
Noni Pini’s Ravioli
From Sylvia Sebastiani’s “Mangiamo – The Sebastiani Family Cookbook,” Silverback Books, 2006 (6th Edition), available at bookstores and at Sebastiani Vineyards & Winery. Recipe adapted ever so slightly by Kathleen Hill.
“Noni Pini” was Mary Ann Sebastiani Cuneo’s grandmother and the mother of Sylvia Sebastiani and Rose Millerick. Noni Pini’s full name was Pierina Martha Mostachetti Scarafoni. She and her husband Joe lived on their Green Acres Dairy in Schellville until their daughter, Dolly, died of diphtheria on the ranch, after which they moved back to the old Cadutti House, now Cuneo Cottage at Fourth Street East and East Spain Street.
Ingredients:
For the dough:
4 cups flour
1 egg
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 teaspoons salt
1 cup warm water
For the filling:
1 chicken breast
1 1/2 pounds ground round or veal
1 set beef brains
3 tablespoons butter
2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1 1/2 bunches spinach
1/4 cup chopped parsley
1/2 cup Parmesan cheese
1/4 cup grated Swiss cheese
3 eggs, slightly beaten
Salt, pepper to taste
Preparation:
For the ravioli pasta:
“Mix all dough ingredients together and knead for about 20 minutes. Test by pressing finger into dough; when it bounces back, it is ready. Let dough stand about 10 minutes in a covered bowl to rise. Divide dough in half. Roll out one half into a round, letting half of this hang over the edge of the board. Roll out the rest of the dough away from you twice. Stretch dough and then roll it twice side to side, keeping it tight under the pin. Reverse dough and roll the other half in the same manner, flouring lightly as you do. Roll until dough is 1/16 inch thick. Repeat procedure for other half of dough. Let dry 1 hour or place on cookie sheets and freeze overnight. (This makes the dough easier to work with.)”
For the filling:
“Dice chicken, ground round, and brains. Melt butter in skillet; add meats, sauté lightly. Then add garlic. Salt and pepper to taste. Sauté until meat is tender, then chop finely. Wash spinach thoroughly and cook for 5 minutes. Drain well and chop finely. Add salt and pepper to taste. Combine chopped meats, spinach, and parsley with cheese and eggs. Makes about 4 cups of filling, enough for 250 small raviolis.
Preparing Ravioli:
“Take one layer of dough and spread half of meat mixture over one half of the dough’s surface. Fold other half over and roll with a ravioli rolling pin. Then cut with a ravioli cutter. Repeat process with remaining dough and meat mixture. Boil raviolis in salted, boiling water 10 to 15 minutes until tender when pricked with a fork. Raviolis can be kept frozen up to 4 weeks. Serve with Sebastiani Zinfandel.”
Sylvia Sebastiani’s Roast Wild Goose
From “Mangiamo – The Sebastiani Family Cookbook,” Silverback Books, 2006 (6th edition), available at bookstores and at Sebastiani Vineyards & Winery.
Ingredients:
1 wild goose, cleaned and dressed
Juice of 1 lemon
Salt, pepper, garlic salt to taste
2 green onions, whole
1 stalk celery (tender part with greens)
1 clove garlic, mashed
1 sprig rosemary or thyme
4 Tbs. oil
1/2 cup Sebastiani Barbera or other dry red wine
1/2 cup Sebastiani Chardonnay, or other dry white wine
Preparation:
“Rub goose with lemon juice; then sprinkle salt, pepper and garlic salt on all sides and in cavity. Place onions, celery, garlic and rosemary in cavity.
Place in a deep Dutch oven along with oil. Roast, uncovered, for 20 minutes at 400 degrees. Add heated wine and cover, reducing heat to 350 degrees. Cook until goose is tender when tested with a fork. May take anywhere from 2 to 2 1/2 hours, depending on the age of the goose. Baste goose 2 or 3 times while baking. You may need to add more wine if there isn’t enough juice. Serves 3-4 (depending on size of the goose). Sebastiani Barbera goes well with this dish.”
