Photos By Ryan Lely
The martini can be maddening. Its origins have been obfuscated by time; its ingredients are in perpetual debate; experts abound, yet none seem to agree whether it should be shaken or stirred. Yet, it is so lauded in our culture it’s a wonder that it isn’t served in the Holy Grail. But would that be with an olive or a twist? Or neither? Or both?
Thought to be a leaner, meaner evolution of the “Martinez,” (a once-popular cocktail comprised of sweet vermouth, cordial gin, maraschino liqueur, bitters and a lemon twist), the martini’s origins have been lost to time, or at least to the latter 19th century, which is when most accounts believe it was first served, albeit in a slightly sweeter version. No one is sure when the drink lost its sugary aspect, or when the vestigial “ez” fell from its name.
Whether it’s made from gin or vodka, shaken or stirred, olive or none – the dry, austere beverage we now know as a martini remains a point of contention between professionals and amateurs alike. This makes it a perfect subject for yearly competition. Behold, the Eighth Annual Martini Madness, this Friday at MacArthur Place Inn and Spa.
Presented by Sonoma Valley’s annual Olive Festival and sponsored by Junipero Gin & Skyy Vodka, this year’s Martini Madness pits valley restaurants Saddles, Carneros Bistro, El Dorado Kitchen, Estate, the girl & the fig, Maya, Plaza Bistro, Sonoma Mission Inn, Murphy’s Irish Pub and Mary’ Pizza Shack in an alcohol fueled throw-down for Sonoma’s best martini. Some have won before, some will never. Moreover, the judges are the legion of attendees that fill every nook of MacArthur Place’s historic barn to capacity.
“Bartenders are probably the most competitive people around. And it’s not collegiate.” said Gary Saperstein, the director of hospitality for recently launched restaurant Estate and Sonoma Valley Visitors Bureau board member, who brainstormed the competition with fellow member Bill Blum of MacArthur Place. “We chose martinis for their sophistication, but also because we’re working under the umbrella of the Olive Festival and martinis and olives are a perfect pairing.”
To wit, the one ironclad rule of the competition is that all competing martinis must include an olive – in some form – in their recipes.
“It becomes more challenging each year to come up with a martini to pair with an olive that hasn’t been done before,” explained Saperstein. “We don’t need to see an olive stuffed with blue cheese again – that’s been done over and over again.”
Easy for Saperstein to say – the girl & the fig, the local brasserie that he managed prior to moving to Estate for the same proprietress, won last year’s competition.
“You always want to be better than the previous year,” said Saperstein, who added with a smile. “We have two restaurants vying for the prize now, so I told manager Chris Tunstall, who is a great mixologist, that we’ll settle for nothing less than a tie this year between the girl & the fig and Estate.”
Saperstein attributes last year’s victory to a balance of simplicity and novelty. A secret weapon was opting for gin over vodka, as well as a splash of St. Germain Elderflower Liqueur and Lillet Blanc, a French aperitif wine. The drink was finally topped with a Picholine olive (also a native of France), which was wrapped in a cucumber.
The girl & the fig’s winning mélange of liquor, liqueur and produce, touches on at least two debates in martini culture. Martini purists insist that the drink is only a martini when made with gin, however, a strident (and vast) movement of vodka supporters have claimed the drink as their own, such that since the 1990s, one often has to specify to bartenders a preference for gin. If a gin enthusiast ever wants to ruin a vodka drinker’s day, all he must do is remind one that a vodka martini is traditionally referred to as a “kangaroo,” which is not only a marsupial, but a brand of kid’s tennis shoes with zipper pockets.
The other debate, one that rages locally with every iteration of Martini Madness, is whether the multi-ingredient concoctions are martinis at all. Some contend (gasp!) that they are merely cocktails.
“These days the interpretation has been altered. True, we all know what a classic martini is, but they’ve taken on a life of their own,” explained a diplomatic Saperstein. “There are martini books that have hundreds of recipes that have everything from straight alcohol to infusions. It’s become an artisanal thing.”
Chris Tunstall concurred with Saperstein and then allowed that his martini will combine “Back of the house cooking with front of the house drinks – we’re taking a more culinary approach to it.” Tunstall added, “The line between food and cocktails is a lot more blurred.”
Especially, after a few martinis.
The Eighth Annual Martini Madness if from 5 p.m. to 7 p.m., Friday, Jan. 9 at MacArthur Place Inn & Spa, 29 E. MacArthur St., Sonoma. Tickets are $40, (dinner package tickets are $85) To purchase tickets, visit www.sonomavalley.com/olivefestival or call MacArthur Place at 707.938.2929.
Last year’s winning martini, the Apertini (so named for the aperitifs in its ingredients), was created by the girl & the fig.
The Apertini
1oz. Hendricks Gin
1/2 oz. St. Germain
Elderflower Liqueur
1/2oz. Lillet Blanc
Squeeze of Fresh Lemon
Shake and serve straight up. Garnish with a cucumber wrapped Picholine olive
