I’ll never forget the story my Dad recounted from his days as part owner of Marin Joe’s restaurant in Marin County. He had a regular customer who liked to hit the bar a little too often, if you know what I mean. One April during Lent this customer decided, as any ardent Catholic would, to abstain from something important to him. It just so happened that this gentleman gave up alcohol. However, one night during Lent as my dad passed his table in the dining room, he noticed a glass of wine in front of the man. My dad inquired as to why he was drinking. The customer simply responded by saying that he wasn’t really drinking, because wine is food.
It’s a funny story that has some validity in most of Europe and definitely in Italy. The kitchen table at my Nonna’s house in Lucca always had an unlabeled bottle of red wine on it at every meal. It was simply a part of the meal, an accompaniment to the food. The average Tuscan who actually buys wine and doesn’t make it, rarely spends more than five to eight Euro on a bottle – less than ten dollars U.S. So why here in this country do we as consumers make wine so complicated and elitist? Furthermore, why do we tend to equate price with quality? We need to demystify and simplify the way wine is perceived. I enjoy telling my customers that a wine is only good to them if they like it. Just because a reviewer or trade publication tells you it’s “x” numner of points doesn’t mean that you have to enjoy it or pay an exorbitant amount of money for it.
As one of the wine buyers for our restaurant and wine bar along with my partner Ron Kantor, it’s our job to educate and expand consumers’ tastes and preferences. We take the time to get to know our customers and what they like and dislike. So next time you want to enjoy a glass or bottle of wine, come and see us, we’ll keep it simple. We’ll even introduce you to our newly released 2008 “R” Vineyard Russian River Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.
Rob Della Santina is the proprietor, along with Ron Kantor of Enoteca Della Santina & Della Santina’s Trattoria in Sonoma.
