Thoughts on Thanksgiving

To cook…
If Thanksgiving is a word that conjures up cozy images of extended families gathered around the dining table, aromas of a buttery turkey and spiced pies wafting from the kitchen, little cousins giggling with one another and happy hours spent on grandma’s stuffing recipe then look no further than one of these local purveyors to help you make the holiday a memorable, homemade success.  The Friday farmer’s market will thankfully be held on Tuesday, November 23 of Thanksgiving week where you will surely find all the essential ingredients for your family’s feast: from perfect Patch green beans and just-dug potatoes, to beautiful root vegetables from Quarter Acre Farm, fresh cheeses from the Epicurean Connection and heavenly breads from Mike the Baker – who is, thank heavens, now offering his gloriously yeasty wares each Friday at the market.  Stock up on Oak Hill Farm’s carrots, which are always the sweetest, while their winter squash and leafy winter greens near perfection.  And, if you miss the Tuesday market, and would like to procure gorgeous vegetables, flowers or wreaths for your holiday fête, the Oak Hill Farm Red Barn Store is open on Wednesdays from 11 a.m. until 6 p.m.  Our ever reliable, Sonoma Market, is taking orders now for turkeys from the local, free range Willie Bird, the sustainably farmed Diestel Farms and lastly, Branigan Farms.  The most delicious, in my opinion, is the slightly more expensive Branigan turkey, which is raised to be a bit more mature before processing to ensure a more meaty, lush flavor.  Be sure to order soon to ensure your ideal brand and size, from 6 pounds to a whopping 30 pounds!  I mean, 30 pounds?!  Call Sonoma Market at 996.3411 to place your order.  Venture slightly over the hill to Petaluma’s Greenstring Farm on Sunday, November 14, for their Winter Squash Festival.  From 1 until 6 p.m, you can stock up for the holidays on more than 12 varieties of winter squash on sale for a mere 33 cents a pound.  Also, enjoy live music and exciting squash-related activities, including cooking demonstrations, squash tastings and crafts.  A selection of homemade pies, breads, preserves and sauces will be available for purchase as well.  Perfect, homemade help for the upcoming festivities.  Greenstring Farm is located at 3571 Old Adobe Road, in Petaluma.  Call 778.7500 for more information.  My favorite temple of all things meaty and beautiful, the Fatted Calf in Napa’s Oxbow Marketplace, is now accepting orders for heritage Thanksgiving turkeys.  From Hudson Ranch and the Good Shepard Ranch, these super special, heirloom breeds are raised naturally and lovingly.  Visit the Fatted Calf Charcuterie, downtown Napa, at 644 First Street or call 256.3684 for more information.

Or not to cook…
If the very thought of Thanksgiving is more likely to instill panic and stress, – visions of the oversized piles of dishes to wash or squabbling in-laws – simply book a table or place a to-go order at one of these local eateries.  Lokal will be closed for the holiday, but is offering complete turkey dinners to be picked up from the restaurant.  Call John at 938.7373 for the complete menu or for more details.  The El Dorado Kitchen is featuring a festive, a la carte holiday menu of traditional dishes – free range turkey and brioche dressing – and not so traditional dishes – seafood bouillabaisse and gnocchi with pomegranate foam.  To see the menu in it’s entirety go to eldoradosonoma.com.  Reservations can be made by calling EDK at 996.3030.  Sondra Bernstein and her talented team are whipping up a lavish menu for the holiday at both the Girl and the Fig and Estate.  From wild mushroom strudel to turkey leg confit at the Fig – three courses for $52 – to blue crab spaghetti and black truffle polenta at Estate – $55 for four courses – your family’s meal couldn’t be more delicious – or easy!  Make your reservations by calling the Girl and the Fig at 938.3634 or Estate at 933.3663.  If it’s a ginormous, luxurious buffet you’re in the market for, then look no further than Santé at the Fairmont, Sonoma Mission Inn.  For $89 per person choose from a mind boggling selection of fancy hors d’oeuvres, salads, soups, vegetables, meats and desserts!  Contact the Mission Inn at 939.2415 for reservations.  For the wine enthusiast, I would highly recommend indulging in the luxe-sounding, three course dinner at the Lodge of Sonoma’s Carneros Bistro.  The restaurant’s highly esteemed sommelier, Chris Sawyer, is genuinely excited to be working on the holiday to ensure his guests the most perfect wine pairings to serve alongside Chef Janine Falvo’s scrumptious, seasonal menu.  Priced at $55 per person, but be sure to opt for Chris’ additional wine pairing option.  Call the Bistro to make reservations at 935.6600.

On the Menu
Mark your calendars for these upcoming events with a few local celebrities in the wine and food world.  Our own favorite, Girl and the Fig Executive Chef Chris Jones, is teaming up with Kunde Family Estate Winery this Friday, November 12, at Ramekins for one of their ever-popular, intimate, winemaker dinners.  Winemaker Tim Bell will present Kunde’s estate-grown premium wines, while Chris’ menu will feature scrumptious sounding dishes such as sugar pumpkin pie soup, Dungeness crab flan and duck breast with honey roasted autumn vegetables!  Priced at $125 per person, inclusive of taxes and gratuities.  To make your reservations call 933.0450.  •  From a winemaker’s dinner to a cheesemaker’s dinner.  On Tuesday, November 16, the Depot Hotel, along with Sonoma cheesemaker extraordinaire and proprietress of the wonderful Springs shop the Epicurean Connection, Sheana Davis, will host a six-course feast featuring Sheana’s own cheeses and other Sonoma County favorites.  Priced at $100, inclusive of taxes and gratuities.  Call the Depot Hotel to make reservations at 938.2980.  •  Meet Napa Valley icon and Vintner Hall of Fame Inductee, Mike Grgich, at BarbersQ in Napa, on Saturday, November 20.  Enjoy a special multi-course, wine-paired dinner while learning firsthand about the area’s fascinating history and unique farming practices from Grgich himself.  BabersQ, 3900 Bel Aire Plaza, in the Trader Joe’s shopping center.  Contact the restaurant for more information and to make reservations at 224.6600.  •  Scott Beattie, the celebrity bartender and cocktail cookbook author is hosting a Holiday Cocktail Class at Spoonbar, Healdsburg’s newest restaurant in the H2Hotel on November 13 at 2 p.m.  In addition to learning the secrets of the professionals when mixing up your holiday libations, students can participate in the “Hideous Holiday Sweater” contest and nibble on hors d’oeuvres from Chef Rudy Mihal of Spoonbar.  Reservations can be made by calling 433.7222.  $50 per person, find more information at h2hotel.com.

A Thanksgiving must –

A Thanksgiving must –
Savory bread pudding

Recipe by Chad Robertson from Tartine Bread
Serves four to six

1 tbsp. unsalted butter

2 leeks, white parts only, finely chopped

½ c. dry white wine

Olive oil

2 lbs. best quality, in season, assorted mushrooms,
stems trimmed and caps halved

1 head radicchio, leaves separated

5 large eggs

½ tsp. salt

1 c. heavy cream

1 c. whole milk

¼ tsp. freshly ground pepper

¼ tsp. freshly ground nutmeg

2 tsp. fresh thyme leaves

2/3 c. grated Gruyere plus ½ c. more for topping
2 slices day-old, best quality rustic bread torn into large chunks


Preheat the oven to 375º. Melt the butter in a skillet over medium heat. Add the leeks and sauté until soft, 6-8 minutes. Add the wine and cook, stirring occasionally, until most of the wine evaporates, about 5 minutes. Remove from heat. Heat a large, heavy-bottomed skillet over high heat. Add enough olive oil to coat the bottom of the pan. When the oil is smoking, arrange the mushrooms cut-side down in the pan and cook without stirring until seared and caramelized, about 1 minute more. Stir the mushrooms, add the radicchio, and cook until wilted, about 1 minute. Season to taste. Remove from heat. To make the custard, in a bowl, whisk the eggs and salt until well blended. Add the cream, milk, pepper, nutmeg, thyme, cheese, and whisk to combine. Place the bread chunks in an 8-inch soufflé dish and add the leeks, mushrooms, and radicchio. Pour in the custard so that it comes all the way to the rim. Sprinkle evenly with the grated cheese. Let stand 8-10 minutes until the custard saturates the bread. Bake until the custard is no longer runny in the center, about 50 minutes. Let rest for 15 minutes before serving.

Note: You can assemble the dish a day ahead and store it in the refrigerator, letting it come to room temperature before baking. Bake the pudding an hour before you want to serve it.