I don’t know about you, but I wander around Sonoma looking up, constantly aware of the trees. Particularly the olive trees. Is it not amazing that here we are, living amongst olive trees? I don’t think I will ever get over my wonderment of olives, growing right there on a tree…in the CVS parking lot or just randomly on the side of Highway 12! So, it should not come as a surprise to you that December and the beginning of Olive Season is one of my favorite times in Sonoma. This year has been especially wonderful, thanks to a girlfriend, who allowed us to come and pick her beautifully abundant tree, sagging heavily with firm green and perfectly ripe black olives. Fruit that would have otherwise gone to waste. The horror! I had hopes that we’d pick so many olives that we’d take a carload to the mill and have our own house olive oil to extravagantly glug on anything and everything. Although I now have a new appreciation for the cost of olives and olive oil. Picking olives is not easy, we picked and picked and didn’t come close to having enough for the mill. They actually would have yielded more like a thimble-full of oil! We have had so much fun learning to cure the olives, experimenting with three methods: a lye brine, a salt brine and a salt-olive oil cure. By googling “curing olives” on the Internet, you’ll get an indefinite supply of recipes and ideas for miscellaneous techniques that easily guide the novice olive curer. We are still in the early phases of each method, but I am optimistic that they just may be the most delicious olives we’ve ever had.

“New Oil”

Olio Nuovo is easily one of the most exciting parts of the annual olive harvest. This “new oil” is the freshest possible olive oil you can find…practically like drinking milk straight from the cow! It has a deep green color, is a bit cloudy and has a super peppery, pleasantly bitter burst of fresh olive taste. It is also potentially the healthiest of olive oils, delivering the highest level of polyphenols. This fresh oil is bottled immediately after the olives are pressed, unlike typical olive oil which is allowed to settle so fruit particles and other sediment is separated. Sadly, Olio Nuovo is a fleeting treat. The oil must be used within a short, few months because those delicious particles have the possibility of fermenting. Beginning this week, most of our local producers offer an Olio Nuovo on an extremely limited basis. This is not oil to cook with. It’s meant to be simply and generously drizzled and enjoyed for it’s outrageously fresh flavor. It’s pure heaven when drizzled in a white bean soup or over rustic, grilled and garlic-rubbed bread, also lovely over winter greens, absolute perfection on an avocado half, eaten straight from the skin with a spoon and strangely amazing over ice cream with really great salt.

Bless the Olives

There are so many was to celebrate our “second harvest,” from tasting events, curing seminars, dinners and community press days. This Saturday at 11 a.m., the Annual Blessing of the Olives truly kicks off the Olive Season. Held at the Mission San Francisco Solano on East Spain and First Streets, the beautiful, traditional blessing is an event not to be missed. A Mariachi band serenades the group, while complimentary coffee and the immense feeling of community will keep you warm. Also on Saturday, from 4 until 6 p.m., pop into my Plaza shop, Junipero & Co. on East Napa Street, for our Happy Olive Days Party. Enjoy olive-based nibbles, holiday beverages and live holiday music from local guitarist Dan Linhard. An extra special holiday treat, Santa Claus, arrives at 5 p.m. Bring the kids or a pet to sit on his lap! Other highlights of the season include an Olive Curing Workshop with Dan Landis at Cline Cellars on Dec. 12, An Everything Olive Cooking Demonstration with Stone Edge Farm’s John McReynolds at Junipero & Co. on Dec. 13, the always popular Martini Madness Party at MacArthur Place on Jan. 7, and the Feast of the Olive Dinner at Ramekins on Jan. 22. Be sure to check out the Sonoma Valley Olive Season’s website for a complete listing of events throughout the three month season at sonomavalley.com/olivefestival.

On the Menu

Another fabulous and educational sounding event from the delicious folks at one of my favorite sparkling wine producers, Gloria Ferrer. This Saturday, Dec. 4, from 10:30 a.m. to noon learn all about how perfect bubbles pair with local Sonoma County and Spanish cheeses during a Sparkling Wine and Cheese Pairing Seminar hosted by Cindy Friedman. Cost is $30 per person. Reservations are required by calling 933.1939. gloriaferrer.com.
• Also on Saturday, from noon to 5 p.m., head over to Napa where Katz’s Napa River Kitchen – of the Katz Estate Olive Oil fame – is hosting an Open Kitchen and Gift Gathering Event. Find an exclusive collection of Katz products and gifts, along with a selection of their precious fresh fruit preserves, just bottled Organic New Oil and more! While browsing, have your items beautifully wrapped on site and enjoy holiday nibbles. Katz is located at 101 S. Coombs Street, downtown Napa. Visit katzandco.com or call 800.676.7176 for more information.
• The always yummy, super cozy restaurant Della Santina hosts Italian wine specialist, Silvio di Silvio, during a five-course, Tuscan wine dinner this Monday, Dec. 6. The all-inclusive event is $125 and is filling up quickly! Call 938.4200 to make your reservations.
• Mark your calendar for next Thursday, Dec. 16, when Steve Sando throws his Rancho Gordo Christmas Open House. Between 4 and 7 p.m. have “lots of fun things to eat and enjoy low key, easy shopping” at the awesome little Napa shop filled with his fabulous, heirloom beans, cookbooks and other great gifts. Rancho Gordo is located at 1924 Yajome Street, downtown Napa. ranchogordo.com.

Olive Oil Ice Cream

Recipe by David Lebovitz
Makes 1 Quart

1 1/3 cups whole milk
1/2 cup sugar
Pinch of Kosher salt
1 cup heavy cream
6 large egg yolks
1/2 cup local Olio Nuovo (or any fruity olive oil)
Best quality medium grained sea salt, such as Fluer de Sel

Warm the milk, sugar, and salt in a medium saucepan. Pour the cream into a large bowl and set a mesh strainer on top. In a separate medium bowl, whisk together the egg yolks. Slowly pour the warm mixture into the egg yolks, whisking constantly, then scrape the warmed egg yolks back into the saucepan. Stir the mixture constantly over medium heat with a rubber spatula, scraping the bottom as you stir, until the cream thickens and coats the spatula. Pour the custard through the strainer and stir into the cream. Whisk the olive oil into the custard vigorously until it’s well blended, then stir until cool over an ice bath. Chill the mixture thoroughly in the refrigerator, then freeze it in your ice cream maker according to the instructions. Serve sprinkled with salt and if desired, drizzle with a small amount of olive oil.