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Ringing in winter

I know as locals, winter is sort of bittersweet. After a busy, beautiful visitor season, winter allows us Sonomans to finally get out and enjoy our restaurants, shops and the Plaza. Sadly, with winter and more free time also comes rain. Well, if you’re looking for some delicious options for your wet winter days and nights read on, this month brings foodie news and happenings galore to keep you warm and well-fed!

Where’s the beef?

Many guests dining at the Girl and the Fig or at Estate enjoy the restaurant’s scrumptious offerings of charcuterie, but never realize that many of the cured meats and salumi, including their amazing bacon and pancetta, are handmade in-house, overseen by Executive Chef John Toulze. Happily, they are now being recognized by the Good Food Awards, a fairly newish organization formed to recognize truly good – socially and environmentally responsible and with superior taste – products being produced across the country, which have recently honored the restaurant’s charcuterie team with nominations for their Coppa and Pimenton Salame. The process of charcuterie, or curing meats, is an ancient art that is now thankfully being revived by chefs, butchers and artisans. Toulze is a passionate believer that these skills will thrive by the sharing of information so it’s no surprise that he offers really great, informative and hands-on classes in his Mano Formate kitchen. What better way to spend a dreary, rainy afternoon than surrounded by the smells of smoke and sugar learning to cure your own meats? Or, possibly you’d rather sit in Estate’s atmospheric bar nibbling on a perfect platter of salumi…red wine in hand. Visit the girl and the fig’s website for information regarding John’s charcuterie classes at thegirlandthefig.com.

Wine and dine

Rotisserie and Wine, yet another sparkling new, fancy addition to downtown Napa’s Riverfront Complex, quietly opened last week. The gorgeous space is owned by Food Network star and baby-faced chef, Tyler Florence. Although, mega cash was obviously spent in designing the smallish, open kitchen and dining room the effect remains fairly relaxed, sort of chic Wine Country farmhouse meets hunting lodge. I love the vintage silverware and the staff’s plaid shirts. The simple and concise menu celebrates local purveyors paired with a nod to the chef’s Southern heritage and highlights meats off of the rotisserie. Although the generous selection of interesting – think pork belly and squid stew and duck confit with waffles – appetizers and vegetable side dishes are the true stars here. Our first dinner was as delicious as the decor, for the exception of the not-so-exciting, unnecessarily thin slice of prime rib. I will definitely look forward to returning, but this time I’ll save room for pie. Rotisserie and Wine is located at 720 Main Street, downtown Napa. Open nightly at 5 p.m. Call 254.8500 for reservations.

Hopping Hopmonk

You’d almost have to be living in a cave not to have heard about the opening of Dean Biersch’s newest beer-centric hotspot, the Hopmonk Tavern. It took the town by storm, opening to a throng of thirsty locals the night before Thanksgiving. By what I can tell it’s been just as busy ever since. We’ve been unable to score a barstool in the five times we’ve visited, twice giving up all together and on the other occasions settling for a table. Biersch spared no expense in revamping the historic and once dreary building. The new and improved space is now airy and sparkling, with comfy booths and a spectacular patio come summer. Even during the hectic opening days the food was reliable and tasty. Mostly, you’ll find fresh versions of tavern fare, from burgers and fish and chips to big salads and my favorite: super-fresh, perfectly prepared mussels in a lightly creamy ale-inflected sauce served with traditional frites. Now, if only the aioli were garlicky and we could nab a seat at the bar!

Word on the street

The food truck phenomenon is sweeping the nation and it’s no different here in Wine Country. The first Friday of each month from 3 p.m. until midnight Napa’s Oxbow Marketplace is teaming up with area food truck vendors to offer the best in the Bay Area’s roadside dining. “Food Truck Fridays” debuted last week at the corner of First and McKinstry Streets in downtown Napa to an enthusiastic group of early, pre-movie diners as well as late night revelers. Street eating is always an adventure and an especially satisfying and affordable way to taste, nibble and share…particularly with offerings such as Chinese dim sum, Thai, rotisserie chicken, sliders and salads served up quickly, all in one spot. My favorite vendor, Dim Sum Charlie’s, permanently parks their shiny little Airstream trailer in a small lot near the Oxbow. Fresh, tasty dumplings, convivial outdoor dining and a b.y.o.b. policy make this spot worth a visit anytime. They’re open Tuesday and Wednesday at 5 p.m. and Thursday through Sunday 11:30 a.m. until late. Check out dimsumcharlies.com. Visit oxbowmarketplace.com and subscribe to their newsletter to keep up with all the tasty things happening there.

On the Menu

During the entire month of December Murphy’s Irish Pub offers their “Dine and Donate” menu. Thirty percent of the proceeds from the special, yummy menu – which include offerings such as bacon braised Brussels sprouts, goat cheese-stuffed chicken breast and Guinness braised pot roast – will go to feeding families for Christmas through the organization F.I.S.H. Call Murphy’s for more information at 935.0660.

• Curious as to which nibbles and wines to serve for your holiday gatherings? Make reservations for this Saturday, December 11, when Meadowcroft Wines’ Chef Darby hosts an informative and festive holiday hors d’oeuvres and wine pairing. $15 per person, reservations recommended. For more information call 934.4090. Meadowcroft’s tasting room is located at Cornerstone Gardens, 23570 Arnold Drive.

• Also this Saturday, Wine Country is going to get a whole lot funnier! Mutineer Magazine hosts their Holiday Comedy Festival at Jacuzzi Winery beginning at 7 p.m. Benefitting the children’s water charity, A Child’s Right, the event will be an over the top party featuring an all-star line up of comedians in a glamourous Hollywood-style setting. It’s bound to be a wild night! Festival food will be courtesy of area food truck vendors that will include Sonoma favorite, Cochon Volant and Napa’s Marks the Spot and Dim Sum Charlie’s. Tickets are priced at an extremely affordable $35 per person and can be purchased by visiting mutineermagazine.com/comedy or you can call Jacuzzi at 931.7575.
• Sunday, December 12, Cline Cellars hosts the ever-popular olive curing workshop with Don Landis. During this complimentary event Don will discuss the history of the California olive and several types of curing processes. Call 823.5097 or email olivedon@hotmail.com to make your necessary reservation. Cline is located at 24737 Arnold Drive.

• Stone Edge Farm’s Chef John McReynolds hosts an Everything Olive! event at Junipero & Co. on Monday, December 13 at 4 p.m. During this enjoyable afternoon John will share stories of life on this very special, organic farm and his experiences with the olive harvest and oil production. He’ll also share his secrets to curing olives and other hints for cooking with olives and olive oil during a casual cooking demonstration. Afterwards, you’ll nibble on his creations. $8 per person, which benefits the Sonoma Valley Education Foundation’s School Garden Project. Space is limited. RSVP strongly recommended by calling 939.9065. Juninpero & Co. is located at 115 East Napa Street.

• This month, Shiso Sushi Catering is offering a delicious sounding line up of special platters and party favorites, perfect for your holiday festivities. For more information call Ed at 933.9331 or visit winecountrysushi.com.

Beer Steamed Fresh Mussels
Recipe by Kristin Viguerie, inspired by the Hopmonk Tavern
Makes 4 first-course or 2 main-course servings

1/2 stick (1/4 cup) unsalted butter
1 large shallot, diced finely
1 cup drained, best quality canned diced tomatoes
3 garlic cloves, diced finely
1 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme
1 fresh bay leaf
1/2 teaspoon coarse salt
1/4 teaspoon fresh ground black pepper
2 cups local beer, preferably Lager or Amber (poured without foam)
2 lb best quality fresh mussels, scrubbed well and beards removed
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
2 tablespoons heavy cream
1/4 cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
Good, crusty bread

Heat butter in a wide, heavy pot over moderately high heat and add shallot, tomatoes, garlic, thyme, bay leaf, salt, and pepper, stirring occasionally, until vegetables are softened, about 4 minutes. Add beer and bring just to a boil. Add mussels and cook, covered, stirring occasionally, until mussels open wide, 4 to 6 minutes, transferring them to a bowl as they open. (Discard any mussels that remain unopened after 6 minutes.) Remove pot from heat. Stir together mustard and cream in a small bowl, then add mixture along with parsley to hot broth and whisk until combined. Discard bay leaf. Serve sauce over mussels. Serve with bread.

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