Say Cheese
Laura Chenel, now practically a household name, was America’s first commercial producer of goat cheese, an early icon of California’s food scene. After a trip to France in 1979, Laura returned to Sonoma County to produce her fresh chèvre and sell at local farmer’s markets.
In the beginning, her product was received with mixed success. At the time, Americans were simply unfamiliar with goat’s cheeses. Her huge break came when foodie pioneer Alice Waters placed a standing order for her cheese to use in a salad of mesclun greens and sauteed chèvre. Waters listed the cheese by name on the menu, in what was more than likely the first American instance of “goat cheese salad.” The salad remains on the menu at Chez Panisse to this day.
Phenomenally, Laura’s operation would grow to sell over two million pounds of cheese per year. In 2006, she sold her company to Laiteries H. Triballat, a French artisan cheese corporation. This past Saturday marked a milestone for the company as they celebrated the opening of their huge, high tech facility in a sparkling new industrial park off of Eighth Street East. They’ll move from the original Stornetta Dairy, where the cheeses have been produced since 1993. The plant was two years in the making and cost a staggering $35 million to complete. Triballat is committed to maintaining the artisan quality of Laura Chenel cheeses and the sustainable practices the company has always employed. Look for a number of new goat’s milk cheeses to be produced when the new facility is up and running. Find a wonderful array of Laura Chenel cheeses at Sonoma Market. laurachenel.com
Guilty Pleasures
We all have them and as guilty pleasures go, I guess mine could be worse. No, it’s not a deep-fried Twinkie or Velveeta cheese…ah! It could be truly embarrassing like pickles dipped in chocolate or terrible for you like a greasy triple cheeseburger! It’s not fast food, carnival food or junk food. Although, there is a time and place for a perfectly crispy funnel cake doused in powdered sugar. It’s merely the wonderfully fluorescent, green, instant pistachio pudding that comes in the little box from Jello. I don’t recall how I became hooked on the stuff, but know I have been secretly enjoying it for many years. I have never looked at the ingredients for fear that they might scare me away and I have never tried any of the other flavors of Jello pudding, my heart belongs to the pistachio. I love the little bits of nut and how elegant it appears when allowed to set up in a fancy glass, you must use whole milk and never believe them when they say a box makes four servings. I would venture to guess that homemade pistachio pudding could possibly be more delicious and better for you, but who wants to find out?
Little Bits
Since the opening of Hopmonk and the thrilling purchase of the Creamery, new Sonoma food happenings and openings have been hard to come by. Finally, we are hearing the rumblings of several exciting food projects we can look forward to in coming months. In the most happy of local news, Margie Tosch, the lovely and energetic local foodie entrepreneur is anticipated to be opening a breakfast and lunch restaurant in town sometime soon. The location has been kept under wraps, but supposedly has been chosen.
• Speaking of the Creamery, since being purchased, improvements are under way for the historic Plaza spot, which will ultimately remain a restaurant. Concepts and possible opening dates are not being circulated, but it seems that moneys for the significant and necessary renovations could possibly slow things up. Well, what’s new?
• Redevelopment plans for the old fire station on Broadway, just off the Plaza, supposedly continue on a slow crawl towards realization. Parking is a major issue for the project, as it sadly seems to be for most of the new businesses on the Plaza. A Peet’s Coffee and a Mexican restaurant are slated to be among the new tenants.
• The planning commission has recently approved the plans for a small tapas restaurant to take over the spot currently housing the Plaza offices of Coldwell Banker. Fred Johnson, owner of the darling boutique, South American Secrets and longtime girl and the fig bartender extraordinaire, will also be one of the owners.
• The Broadway purveyor of lovingly crafted coffee and espresso drinks, Hot Shots, will reportedly be expanding in coming months to include seating and possibly an expanded menu that may include light bites.
• Stay tuned for more information on these exciting new food projects.
On the Menu
This Saturday, January 22, is the Annual Sonoma Olive Festival’s “Feast of the Olive Dinner” held at Ramekins Culinary School. The elaborate dinner will feature dishes from many of Sonoma’s most talented local chefs including Bruno Tison of Sante, Janine Falvo of the Carneros Bistro, John Toulze and Chris Jones of the girl and the fig and Estate, Justin Everett of the Eldorado Kitchen and many, many more. This celebratory feast to celebrate Sonoma’s second harvest begins at 5:30 p.m. and tickets are $150 per person. Visit sonomavalley.com/olivefestival or call 996.1090 for more information. Ramekins is located at 450 West Spain Street.
• This month’s Wild Thyme “Dining Club Rive Gauche” event is a tribute to musician Tony Flores and his wonderful music of Sicily and Naples with a four-course, regional Italian menu and live music by Sheri Mignano and Michael Van Why. Wednesday, January 26 at 7 p.m. $30 per person, b.y.o.b. with no corkage. Wild Thyme is located at 19030 Railroad Avenue, El Verano. Reservations are required and can be made by calling 996.9453.
• Mark your calendars for Out in the Vineyard’s “First Ever, All Gay Winemaker Dinner” on the Napa Valley Wine Train, Saturday, March 12. This seriously unique and fun sounding event will surely sell out quickly. Call the Wine Train straightaway to book your spot at 253.2111, ask for “the big gay train!” And, in case you didn’t already know, Out in the Vineyard is a Wine Country Tour and Event company offering exclusive, luxury itineraries and events to the discriminating gay and lesbian traveler, headed up by ex-girl and the fig manager, Gary Saperstein. outinthevineyard.com
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