Where pork is King

Bacon. Simply the utterance of the word sends most people into a tizzy of delight, conjuring up happy memories of languid Sunday mornings or a perfect summer BLT. The aroma…oh boy, now that could drive a man wild or provoke a huge black bear to rip a door right off it’s hinges. But, that’s a story for another time. Not only is bacon absolutely delicious and addictive, but it’s downright trendy. Bacon right now is hot, it’s the thing. Lately, it’s also in everything. In my store alone there’s bacon peanut brittle, bacon-maple lolli pops, dark chocolate bacon bars, bacon caramels and flying chocolate bacon pigs. Geesh. Pig is certainly King and porky goodness can be found almost everywhere nowadays, but here are a few of my favorite options locally.

Skillet Street Food’s Bacon Jam is a divine concoction of bacon, spices and onions that have been cooked down to a glorious, sticky consistency. An absolute must for burgers, pork chops, grilled cheese sandwiches, or practically a bacon-opia of other uses. Find it at Sonoma Market in the refrigerated section. Chef John Toulze guarantees complete bacon satisfaction. His MANO FORMATE house-made bacon – some of the most delicious I’ve had – is served at each of the girl and the fig and Estate restaurants. Don’t miss the new white pizza at Estate that is not only topped with bits of bacon, but the dough is drizzled with bacon drippings before being slid into the wood-burning oven. You know us Southerners love our bacon drippings! It’s simply not enough to eat your bacon anymore. Now you can drink it too. The girl and the fig’s Bourbon & Bacon is a must-try cocktail of bourbon, orange juice and maple syrup, garnished with a bacon lardon. Cheers to that. Look no further than the newly opened Community Café to find bacon with a pedigree. Allen Benton’s Bacon from Tennessee is seriously the real deal and has garnered him a reputation as a national treasure among professional chefs nationwide. The meaty, marbled slabs are addictive, with a smoky aroma that is no less intoxicating. The individual strips are thick, with a heavy ratio of fat to meat, with an unctuous mouth-feel, closer to pork belly, rather than the crunchy, lifeless strips of bacon to which we’ve grown accustomed. That ethereal hickory flavor lingers in the back of the throat, a powerful confluence of salt and smoke. Find it as an essential side at breakfast and chopped in their Cobb or iceberg wedge salads at lunch.

Of course as a good, old-fashioned Southern gal I like my pig in all forms. Not that I indulge in it as much as some of the good folks back home but when I do, I make sure it’s something special. The Porchetta Pork Roast from the Fatted Calf in Napa’s Oxbow Public Market is honestly just that. My word, I cannot even begin to put into words how completely outrageous this dish is, so I won’t. Just trust me. An organic, heirloom pork loin is wrapped in pork belly and seasoned with copious amounts of garlic, fennel, lemon and rosemary and roasted until the skin is brittle, crackling like lovely shards of porky glass. In my opinion, there is no cuter or yummier pig-inspired dessert than the little pig shaped cookies stuffed with peanut butter at the Fremont Diner. If you’re too full for one – which you more than likely will be after a divine meal there – get one to go, or else you’ll be sorry. I am already counting the days until warmer weather so I can relish in a long, decadent meal on the enchanting outdoor terrace at the Depot Hotel. I would never consider a meal here without ordering the La Quercia American Prosciutto from Iowa typically paired with melon. There is just something magical about the combination of the salty, lightly fatty ham combined with the juicy, sweet fruit. Oh yes, pork is King.

On The Menu
Landmark Winery’s “Complimentary Saturday Concert Series” is back every Saturday from 1 until 4 p.m. Enjoy their lovely patio and beautiful views with a glass of wine, pack a picnic, experience a horse-drawn carriage ride and linger while listening to the fabulous selection of live music. This Saturday, April 23, features the Carlos Herrara Band and on April 30 my absolute favorite local jazz band, Rue Manouche takes the stage with their dazzling Gypsy swing and French cabaret. Visit landmarkwine.com for a complete list of upcoming events.

• Also this Saturday, April 23, is the next installment of the Sonoma Community Center’s dining series entitled; “The Community Table” features Chef Dagmar Carruth of the Red Grape and will begin at 6:30 p.m. with a special three-course dinner for $30. All proceeds benefit the SCC’s Culinary Arts Program. For more information of to RSVP, call 938.4626.

• The Second Annual “Are You Smarter Than a Fifth Grader?” is back at the Veteran’s Building this Saturday, April 23, with KRON 4 News’ Mark Danon hosting. The fun, and at-times hilarious, game show features local competitors battling wits while raising funds to assist the important works being done by the Sonoma Valley Education Foundation. In addition to the show, guests and contestants will be able to enjoy casual food, beer and wine, a silent auction and raffle. The doors open at 5 p.m. with the event beginning at 6 p.m. Tickets are $25 and can be purchased online at svgreatschools.com or by calling 935.9566.

• The Sonoma Ecology Center and Cittaslow have joined forces as “Pollinator Pals” and on Saturday, April 30, are hosting a plant sale and party to raise awareness for the mysterious disappearance of the bees. Look forward to a full day of bee festivities including a live observation hive, bee dancers, garden tours, snacks, the plant sale and a guest speaker: Kate Frey – acclaimed garden designer – who will talk about what plants to choose that will best provide a habitat for native and honey bees. The event begins at 9 a.m. and continues until 3 p.m. Sonoma Garden Park is located on Seventh Street East.

• The next Wild Thyme “Rive Gauche Dining Club” takes place on Wednesday, April 27, at 7 p.m. This time it’s a Spanish Tapas Celebration with asparagus and shrimp, clams in sherry, potato tortilla, fruit empanadas and more. Call 996.9453 to reserve your seat or for additional details.

• Chef Stephen Viguerie and Junipero & Co. are hosting “Sonoma’s First Annual Burger Contest and Potluck Picnic” on Sunday, May 1, beginning at noon. Contestants will be judged on flavor, originality, simplicity of execution and the bun. The esteemed panel of judges as of today is Chef Norman Owens of the Hot Box Grill, Chef Dan Kedan of Peter Lowell’s in Sebastopol and Chef Chris Jones of the girl and the fig. The winner takes home $100, a case of Lagunitas IPA, not to mention bragging rights! Space is very limited and RSVP is required to attend and/or to enter. For more information call Kristin at 939.9065 or email kristinviguerie@mac.com.

• Kunde Winery simply has to have one of the most stunning vineyard properties in the valley. Their Hikes in the Vineyards allows you to experience the property up close while working off those wine calories. Now Kunde has teamed up with Triple Creek Horse Outfit to offer trail rides through their gorgeous estate. “There is no better way to experience wine country and the beautiful Sonoma Valley than riding through the vineyards on horseback,” said Marcia Kunde Mickelson, fourth-generation winegrower. For more information or to make reservations, call Triple Creek at 887.8700 or visit triplecreekhorseoutfit.com

The best thing I ate this week.
Oh, hello spring, is that finally you? I wasn’t quite sure if you’d ever arrive, but was convinced you’re here this week when the sun shone down, warm on my horribly pale, bare arms and the world’s best asparagus dish reappeared on the menu at my beloved farm to table restaurant in St. Helena, Farmstead. The big fat, local spears are tossed in the restaurant’s own olive oil and then quickly roasted in their mighty hot wood-burning oven. The asparagus arrive in a miniature cast iron skillet embellished with the most stunning spoonful of Bellwether Farms sheep’s milk ricotta cheese. The tips are slightly charred, with a heavenly crunch, while the stalks are perfectly tender. The whole mess emits a divine aroma of wood smoke. Scoop up the remaining melted cheese with one of their outrageous, house-made rolls, sit back and remind yourself that yes, life is good. Visit longmeadowranch.com/Farmstead-Restaurant.

Roasted Asparagus with Lemon Ricotta


Recipe inspired from Farmstead Restaurant
Serves 4 as a side dish or first course

2 lbs. local asparagus (think ones are better)
Generous drizzle of good olive oil, plus more for garnish
1 cup Bellwether Farms Ricotta
Juice of one lemon
Coarse salt and fresh ground pepper to taste

Preheat oven to 425 degrees. Snap the ends from the asparagus and toss generously with the olive oil and the salt and pepper. Spread them on a sheet pan lined with tin foil. Roast for approximately 8-10 minutes, depending on their size, shaking the pan once or twice. While the asparagus are roasting, gently fold in the lemon juice and salt and pepper to taste. When asparagus are nicely roasted, place them on a platter (or individual plates) and dollop the ricotta generously on top. Garnish with a drizzle of olive oil and serve immediately.