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Deliciousness in surprising places

The Grange is good

There are many different reasons why we live in a town like Sonoma.  Of course, there’s the wine, the food, the history and the beauty, but I think mainly it’s because of the small town charm.  Because of our generous, wonderful small town community.  For reasons like our Fourth of July parade or picnicking at the Tuesday Farmer’s Market, and especially because of local organizations like the Sonoma Valley Grange.  We’ve all driven by that rustic little building in the Springs and wondered, “What is that place?”  That’s exactly what I did for more than a year before getting the scoop.  The National Grange – as I found out on their website – is the nation’s oldest national agricultural organization, formed in the years following the American Civil War to unite private citizens in improving the economic and social position of the nation’s farm population.  There are more than twenty-seven hundred established Grange units in thirty-seven states, with Grange members working towards bettering rural communities on a wide variety of issues, such as economic development, education and legislation.

If you don’t think those are reasons enough to think that the Sonoma Valley Grange is pretty darn cool, then just wait until you dive into a heaping platter of their pancakes.  Pancakes for their “Not Your Usual Pancake Breakfast,” which just took place this past Sunday, are prepared from freshly ground flour.  Freshly ground equals completely delicious!  That’s not all.  The juice?  Yup, it’s freshly squeezed right there, while the eggs are local and organic for the just-picked vegetable frittata.  The sausage served at the last breakfast was homemade with wild duck and fresh herbs and oh boy, was it yummy.  A capable gent spends the morning brewing cup after delicious cup of organic, dark roasted espresso drinks.  This is the sort of breakfast a person staying in a fancy hotel could easily spend $25 on, but you wouldn’t believe this gorgeous, lovingly prepared meal costs a mere $10 per person, $5 for children.  While you’re there, be sure to also take a look-see at their lovely new farm mural painted by Grange member and local artist Michael Acker.  Now, we have just one more way of knowing that we’ve made the right move and live in this amazing little town.  The next Grange pancake breakfast is on August 7, from 9 a.m. until noon.  Visit sonomavalleygrange.com for more information or to become a member.  18627 Sonoma Highway, 935.1312.

The best thing I ate this week

I am sort of a fish taco fanatic.  It all started when my sister moved to La Jolla.  Sure, in Florida, we had fish and we had tacos, but when I was growing up the two never seemed to mingle.  During my first visit to Southern California, I had the good fortune to be introduced to an authentic Baja-style fish taco.  Well, you have to know that this was one of those moments in my early life where food would define a sense of place, a time so completely etched, I can remember it like it was yesterday.  Since that fateful fish taco day, I have forever been on the hunt for fish taco perfection.  For something comparable to my first.  Well, the hunt continues, but you might not believe me when I tell you that some pretty stellar fish tacos can be found right here in Sonoma.  At, of all the unusual places, Murphy’s Irish Pub.  The fresh, meaty cod is expertly battered in-house and fried to a state of crisp bliss.  Each order – you can opt for one, two or three tacos – arrives with two generous, chubby chunks of glistening fish, sliced avocado, fresh pico de gallo and crunchy, shredded cabbage; truly a bargain.  Murphy’s kitchen, under the capable influence of chef Sarah Pinkin, offers a seasonally changing menu filled with delightfully tasty and fresh choices, especially for a traditional pub.  The Spring Crudite is crunchy carrots, asparagus, and baby artichoke hearts with a creamy green garlic feta dipping sauce, while an entree of Hawaiian swordfish is served with a decadent, truffled risotto and fresh asparagus, and the prettiest of the bunch: house-made, crispy gnocchi with more fresh asparagus, fava beans and lemon.  Sarah sources some of the restaurant’s produce from local farms, including Quarter Acre and Green String Farms.  Thoughtful, fresh and forward thinking for a traditional pub, no?  Visit sonomapub.com for details on Murphy’s menu, hours and live music schedule.

Baja-Style Fish Tacos

Serves 4

1 quart vegetable oil

12 to 16 fresh corn tortillas

1 cup all-purpose flour

2 teaspoons salt

1 cup beer (not dark)

1 pound cod fillet, cut into 3 by 1 inch strips

Accompaniments: shredded lettuce, Mexican crema, avocado slices, chopped or sliced radish, and lime wedges

Preheat oven to 350°F.  Heat 1 inch oil in a 10-inch heavy pot (2 to 3 inches deep) over moderate heat until a deep-fat thermometer registers 360°F.  Meanwhile, separate tortillas and make 2 stacks of 6 to 8. Wrap each stack in foil and heat in oven 12 to 15 minutes.  While tortillas warm, stir together flour and salt in a large bowl, then stir in beer (batter will be thick). Gently stir fish into batter to coat. Lift each piece of fish out of batter, wiping any excess off on side of bowl, and fry fish in batches, turning once or twice, until golden, 4 to 5 minutes. Drain on paper towels.  Increase oil temperature to 375°F and refry fish in batches, turning once or twice, until golden brown and crisp, about 1 minute. Drain on paper towels.  Assemble tacos with warm tortillas, fish, and accompaniments.  Serve immediately.

Kristin Viguerie is one of Sonoma’s most passionate, food obsessed residents. In this weekly column, she covers all the delicious happenings, foodie events and restaurants in Sonoma, the rest of Wine Country and beyond.  Find her at her Sonoma Plaza shop, Junipero & Co. (juniperoandco.com) or blogging daily as the Cook (thecardiganandcook.com) or via email at foodandwine@sonomasun.com.

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