On a recent dining escapade over the hill I found myself sitting at the bar at Morimoto, the flashy Japanese spot in Napa best known for their stunning raw fish. Not only was I not necessarily in the mood for sushi, but neither was my bank account. Yikes, it isn’t cheap.
I began to peruse the menu, which is filled with many decadent-sounding options from Maine lobster to foie gras. The curious thing is that I rarely pine for these luxurious offerings, even if someone else is picking up the tab. Sure, when dining out, I love a bite of someone’s richly marbled, expensive steak or I can always gobble up a cozy bowl of house-made pasta as much as the next gal, but what I am most obsessed with are sides! I just seriously adore restaurants that offer a thoughtful selection of a la carte side dishes. My perfect summer dinner out could possibly consist of a lush crock of creamed spinach or local baby zucchini charred from a wood-burning oven and a little cast iron skillet of macaroni and cheese or a creamy pot of polenta.
When dining that evening at Morimoto, I ordered a couple of side dishes that ended up being, quite possibly, one of my favorite meals in a long while. Duck fried rice was a hearty concoction of jasmine rice studded with tender shredded duck, petite peas and a tiny dice of carrot. The whole thing was crowned with the most magnificent, oozing, fried egg for a mere $6.
My Chinese broccoli was absolute perfection. For $8, what must have been close to a pound of the veggie was steamed to an ideal state and finished with a light, sweet-soy glaze. I cannot imagine if I’d ordered the $80 Kobe steak that I would have been as happy as I was with my little selections of something on the side! Morimoto, 610 Main Street, Downtown Napa, 252.1600.
What’s a frickle?
I have a little confession. Don’t judge me. Promise? But, I love Steiner’s. I really do. Steiner’s is, I think, sort of considered a “dive bar” in Sonoma terms. Although, in the South where I’m from, dive bars are way divey-er! Steiner’s is air conditioned and cozy, and the floor isn’t at all sticky. Good qualities in a bar, right? Did you know that the food is quite yummy? Did you even know they had food?
We happen to be big fans of their tater tots. Where on earth nowadays can you even order a tater tot besides the school cafeteria? You must not forget to put a good squirt of Siracha chili paste in your ketchup before dipping.
Oh boy, and don’t get me started on their frickles. Seriously, y’all frickles. Fried dill pickle spears served up hot and crispy with a cooling side of Ranch dressing. I cannot believe I just said that. Ranch dressing? There is something strangely scrumptious about the combination. There are gargantuan hot dogs with the perfect hot doggy snap and a dish of homestyle tamales that could easily be the exact meal you’d want with your icy cold Pacifico.
When I’m in the mood for a little something lighter, for those lazy Sunday afternoons with one of Paul’s yummy scratch-made Bloody Mary’s, the South Floridian in me would choose the bagel with cream cheese and smoked salmon, but the new Californian in me would insist on the crisp Shrimp Louie salad. Extra dressing please. Wines by the glass are mostly local, delightful and unexpectedly affordable. Cocktails are always prepared skillfully and served with a smile. So sidle up to the bar at Steiner’s, put something fun on the juke box and maybe shoot a game of pool, but be sure to linger a while, preferably over a basket of frickles. Jell-o shot optional.
On the Menu
Join several Eighth Street businesses Thursday, July 28, from 5 to 7 p.m. for “Wine, Dine and Consign on Eighth Street.” Guests can start their evening at Sonoma’s Best to sample the gourmet market’s wares and then make their way down to the Skypark to visit Sonoma’s new, 6,000 square foot, consignment store, CPO. Here, enjoy bites from the girl and the fig CATERS, HelloCello Limoncello di Sonoma and cheeses from Gary Edwards…all Eighth Street businesses. For more information or to r.s.v.p. call 939.2700.
• If you’re looking to get out of town, dine on some piggy goodness and drink some bubbly, check out Iron Horse Vineyards’ “Food Truck Friday” this Friday, July 29. Cochon Volant will be on hand serving their delectable pork and beef brisket sandwiches, ribs and smoked chicken with watermelon and arugula salad from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. The gorgeous sparkling winery is located near Sebastopol. Visit ironhorsevineyards.com for information.
• Don’t forget, if it’s the last Friday of the month, then it must be “Food Truck Friday” at the Sebastiani Winery. Beginning at 5 p.m. the festive event pairs delicious foods from area food truck vendors, Sebastiani wines for purchase, live music and a lovely outdoor, Wine Country setting.
• Alsina Station Grill’s first “Tango and Milonga Night” is Sunday, July 31. Beginning at 5:30 p.m., the newish Argentinian restaurant at Cornerstone is hosting the San Francisco-based Argentine Tango band, Tangonero. The evening sounds like a fabulous opportunity to sit beneath the olive trees, dig into a beautiful, wood-grilled, all-natural steak, while sipping some wonderful Argentinian wines and either watching – or taking part – in the open Tango! Call Alsina at 933.4422 to make reservations. Visit alsinagrill.com or tangonero.com for more information.
• On Saturday, August 13, friends of the Ecology Center or 18 Reasons are invited to a “Full Moon Barn Dance” held in the atmospheric barn of a local ranch with real square dancing, games for the kids, live music and delicious food from Mike [the bejkr] and Bi-Rite Market. Local beer and wine will be courtesy of area producers, with homemade sodas from SodaCraft. The event is being hosted by the Sonoma Ecology Center, in conjunction with local realtor HWY 12 Properties and benefits 18 Reasons’ youth programs and the Ecology Center’s Enviro-Leaders Internship Program. 18 Reasons is an organization founded by the owners, and local Sonoma residents, of the fabulous food market in San Francisco, Bi-Rite Market. Camping on the ranch is optional, but sounds like fun! Visit brownpapertickets.com/event/183623 for more information.
Duck Fried Rice
Recipe inspired by Morimoto
Serves 4 as a side dish
1 cup shredded, roasted duck
1 bunch scallions, thinly sliced
3 carrots, diced fine
4 eggs, fried with a runny yolk
1 teaspoon soy sauce
3 cups cooked, warm white jasmine rice
1/4 teaspoon sesame oil
Peanut oil
Preheat a large, wide, non stick skillet over medium-high heat. Add about a tablespoon peanut oil and the duck to the pan and heat through, constantly stirring, until crispy. Remove duck and set aside. Add another tablespoon of peanut oil to pan, then add carrots and scallions. Cook quickly, constantly stirring, for approximately 3-4 minutes. Carrots should retain their firmness. Remove mixture from pan and set aside. Add sesame oil and the rice to pan and stir-fry approximately five minutes until cooked through and browning a bit. Return duck, carrots, scallions to the pan and mix with the rice for approximately 1-2 minutes. Taste for salt and add some if necessary. Serve immediately topping each portion with a fried egg.
Kristin Viguerie is one of Sonoma’s most passionate, food obsessed residents. In this weekly column, she covers all the delicious happenings, foodie events and restaurants in Sonoma, the rest of Wine Country and beyond. Find her blogging daily as the Cook (thecardiganandcook.com) or via email at foodandwine@sonomasun.com.
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