I have to say there is a meat awakening in this country that I am quite proud of. There are many notions to this newfound pork-tastic awakening. Some have to do with limiting our meat consumption a bit, some of us deleting it from our diets altogether. I am rather fond of that last school of thought. In this column, I have shared my own personal meat thoughts, meat ponderings, if you will. I think y’all are aware of my own distaste for factory-farmed meat, my passionate preferences for game bird and farmer’s market vegetables – and pasta! – over “meat.” That is, unless that meat is truly special and lovingly raised. Believe me, I drool over the gorgeous, marbled heritage pork chops from Napa’s sparkling shrine to all things beautiful and meaty, the Fatted Calf, but I cringe at the very thought of greying pork chops plonked on a slab of Styrofoam and cryovac’d within an inch of it’s life at the supermarket. I am absolutely crazy about the faction of Americans who are devoted to saving their meat consumption for only the good stuff and they’re growing by leaps and bounds. The old-school butchery movement – an enthusiastic group of young, often pig tatoo’d hipsters yielding cleavers – is making an admirable, modern comeback. Chefs are becoming obsessed with “nose to tail” cooking and getting famous in the meantime for doing so. If these newly minted rock stars of the butchery world had a Woodstock, or if these innards-obsessed chefs had an Academy Awards, it would be Cochon 555 Heritage Fire.
Cochon 555’s Heritage Fire event, held this year at Napa’s Charles Krug Winery – in past year’s dubbed “Primal” – is a literal Valhalla of smoke, fat, wine and an altogether utterly carnivorous evening. Master butchers and chefs from across the country fly in to participate in wood-fired, whole animal theater cooking and onsite butchery demonstrations. At my first Primal event, two years ago, I was absolutely astounded by the massive amounts of “meat paparazzi,” camera-toting, Bay Area foodies obsessed with this year’s rock star, offal-loving chef. The $100 per person event, which can appear a tad elitist, is truly a loving homage to the importance of whole animal utilization and promoting the education and importance of heirloom animal breeds. The menu is an awe-inspiring line up of locally raised, smoked, grilled and roasted meats and sausages. If that weren’t enough, there are breathtakingly beautiful, straight-from-the-garden vegetable dishes, Tomales Bay oysters, local cheeses and enough craft beer and Napa Valley wines to sink a tanker.
Local chef and notable barbecue aficionado, Rob Larman, will be on hand with his Cochon Volant. I cannot wait to dig into the two suckling pigs sourced from Clark Summit Farm in Tomales Bay farm, which will be stuffed with quail and rabbit and gently smoked in his mobile smoker. Pork stuffed with quail? And rabbit? Yum! Although, I am completely counting the seconds for anything prepared by Chef Mike Lata of Fig Restaurant in Charleston. My last meal there, more than two years ago, remains in my memory as the most fantastic meal I’ve experienced in a restaurant since. I fantasize often of the extraordinary steak tartare I started with, not to mention the stunning platter of heavenly Southern vegetables I opted for as my main course. Other significant chefs who will add to the event’s prestigious pedigree are the Wine Country’s most beloved pork-centric couple; John Stewart and Duskie Estes of Zazu and the Black Meat Pig Co., Michael Sullivan from Tennessee’s famous – and stunning – Blackberry Farm, Stephen Barber, now the new executive chef at St. Helena’s Farmstead, and the wandering and über talented Chef Jeremy Fox. Truly, this is a seriously star-studded, meat-astic event not to be missed.
Cochon 555 Heritage Fire is this Saturday, August 13. This amazing event will be held at Charles Krug Winery and regular admission tickets are $100, inclusive. A true bargain considering the amount of food, wine and theater included. Visit cochon555.com for all the details and to purchase tickets.
Kristin Viguerie is one of Sonoma’s most passionate, food obsessed residents. In this weekly column, she covers all the delicious happenings, foodie events and restaurants in Sonoma, the rest of Wine Country and beyond. Find her blogging daily as the Cook (thecardiganandcook.com) or via email at foodandwine@sonomasun.com.
Steak Tartare
Serves 6-8 as an appetizer
1 1/4 pound filet mignon, very cold
1/2 medium onion, minced
2 tablespoons capers
8 cornichons, cut into small dice
2 tablespoons flat-leaf parsley, chopped
1 anchovy fillet, minced
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 garlic clove, peeled and minced
2 tablespoons Dijon mustard
1/2 teaspoon salt
White pepper to taste
6 tablespoons Homemade Mayonnaise
Best quality rustic French baguette
Take the beef out of the refrigerator; it should be very cold. Using a very sharp chef’s knife, cut the steak into thin 1/4-inch slices. Stack 3 of the slices and slice lengthwise, every 1/2 inch, holding the stack in place. Then cut across the stack, again every ½ inch, cutting the steak into ½-inch dice. Hold the chopped steak in a bowl set over crushed ice in a larger bowl. When all the beef has been chopped, add in the onion, capers, cornichons, parsley, anchovy, oil, garlic, salt, and pepper. Gently mix with a fork until just combined. Add the mayonnaise and again mix gently until just combined. Serve with baguette slices alongside.
On the menu
This Saturday, August 13, from 3 to 7 p.m., one of Sonoma’s favorite little farms is hosting a “Farm Open House.” Enjoy refreshing beverages and yummy, garden-inspired snacks from the garden while meeting the farmers and enjoying the farm. In addition, live music will be from Hank Levine, singing and playing fabulous acoustic guitar. Everyone is welcome! Lunita Farm is located at 2902 Dale Avenue between Burndale Road and Ramal Road. • Also this Saturday, August 13, is the friends of the Ecology Center and 18 Reasons’ “Full Moon Barn Dance.” Held in the atmospheric barn of a local ranch, there will be real square dancing, games for the kids, live music – including the David Thom Band – and a delicious “country cook out” courtesy of Bi-Rite Market and Bi-Rite Creamery. Local wines are from HWY 12 Vineyards, Kenwood Vineyards and Nicholson Ranch, while beer is straight from Linden Street Brewery, and homemade sodas from SodaCraft. The event is being hosted by the Sonoma Ecology Center, in conjunction with local realtor HWY 12 Properties and benefits 18 Reasons’ youth programs and the Ecology Center’s Enviro-Leaders Internship Program. 18 Reasons is an organization founded by the owners, and local Sonoma residents, of the fabulous food market in San Francisco, Bi-Rite Market. Camping on the ranch is optional, but sounds like fun! Tickets will not be available at the door so be sure to visit brownpapertickets.com/event/183623 to purchase yours! • Don’t forget that each Saturday morning, the Sonoma Community Center hosts a “Saturday Market.” From 9 a.m. until 1 p.m. visitors to the market can pick up a lovely selection of local produce, organic prepared foods – including Mike [the bejkr]’s scrumptious flatbreads – and unique artwork. For more information visit sonomacommunitycenter.org.
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