Being as completely obsessed with Sonoma county’s food and wine scene as I am, I am sort of embarrassed to admit that I hadn’t been to Healdsburg’s Madrona Manor until just this week where I easily enjoyed one of the most imaginative, luxurious and delicious meals since my move to Sonoma. Maybe it’s because, even though the restaurant holds a coveted Michelin star and is on the Chronicle’s list of the top 100 restaurants, it still seems to happily fly just a little bit under the radar. Maybe it’s because the restaurant is housed in an intimate, one hundred and twenty-six year old historic inn off the beaten trail amongst eight acres of towering redwoods and rolling vineyards, exuding an overwhelming amount of romance, the lucky guests like to keep it that way.
The first floor of the grandiose Victorian mansion houses the restaurant, complete with a gracious front porch, lined with wicker seating – an ideal spot for an afternoon whiskey sour – and a super cozy bar, a heavenly location for snuggling up in front of the fire on a chilly evening. Immediately upon entering, it feels like you’ve stepped back in time to the gold rush days of lumber barons and dusty gold miners.
A series of intimate dining rooms would be the go-to spot for winter dining, but on this glorious summer night we were shown to the expansive back porch overlooking the estate’s perfectly manicured gardens and eagerly sunk into a plush arm chair and ordered a glass of bubbly. Saying that the service is stellar would be underplaying just how accommodating, gracious and completely helpful the staff is. Bedecked in sharp black suits, the servers are amazingly knowledgeable about every last obscure herb, far-out cooking method and single designate Russian River Pinot Noir on the menu yet somehow manage to remain friendly and relaxed.
Thankfully for us diners Owners Trudi and Bill Konrad have given Executive Chef Jesse Mallgren complete freedom to orchestrate the culinary goings on here as he sees fit. Born and raised in Sonoma County, he is obviously passionate about using locally sourced products and even more crazy about the gorgeous herbs, vegetables and fruit growing on the estate. Here, he has the freedom to create food that, “He would like to eat.” And guess what? You’d like to eat it too! Guests can choose between the four, five or six course menus or can be so utterly indulgent as to go for the Chef’s Grand Dame Tasting Menu.
We chose the six courses, which, when you add in the additional amuse bouches, palate cleansers and after-dinner treats – including a little bag of the kitchen’s outrageous caramel corn as a take-home treat – was easily more like twelve! I could go on and on about each dish and how lovingly it was prepared with flawless technique, ingredients at their height of seasonal perfection, with just the right amount of whimsy, all presented in creative fashion on luxurious china…but I sadly only have space for so many words here.
One of my favorites was a teeny, fun bite that consisted of a magically hollowed out radish that was then filled with cold, sweet butter and a sprinkling of crunchy salt. A soup of the silkiest purée of onion was topped with the most stunning poached egg. The yolk blended with the onion in the most heavenly fashion. Perfection. Fresh Hawaiian butterfish was seared to a blissful state of moistness and was accompanied by a generous spoonful of herb-flecked buttermilk sauce which was so lovely that I have literally been fantasizing of everything I might put it on might I manage to make it at home! Pastry Chef Robert Nieto outdoes himself on every selection, I happen to know because we practically ate every dessert on the menu. Although, an ice cream sundae where the ice cream was prepared table side using a pretty copper bowl and liquid nitrogen was quite theatrical and downright delicious.
It’s fortunate that Madrona Manor has some of the most lovely overnight accommodations in Sonoma County, after all the amazing food and wine it’s entirely more enjoyable to simply go upstairs and slip beneath a luxurious down comforter in your antique four poster bed. I couldn’t possibly think of something more romantic to do during a rainy Sonoma winter weekend. Madrona Manor is located in Healdsburg at 1001 Westside Road. Call 800.258.4003 or visit madronamanor.com for more information or to make reservations.
What’s cookin’ Sonoma?
Café 522 will soon open in the space on Broadway that last housed Lokal. There have been plenty of lovely changes to the dining room, the addition of a brick wall particularly providing a nice, cozy vibe. I am truly excited about the menu, which offers plenty of creative twists on modern comfort food. Think duck confit and waffles and an adult-sounding mac and cheese. Along with lunch and dinner, they plan on serving breakfast, which is super exciting news for Plaza area residents. They’re planning for a September 22 opening. Visit cafe522.com for more information.
• In more exciting Plaza opening news, Sheana Davis will open her Epicurean Connection in the cool little space recently vacated by Taylor Made Farms on West Napa Street soon. The shop will most certainly carry Davis’ handmade cheeses, plenty of additional artisan cheese and a variety of other locally produced, tasty goodies. Saying that her move is exactly what the Plaza needs is an understatement and I hope everyone does their best to support her there. Keep up with news, classes and events on her website at sheanadavis.com.
• Don’t forget about the charming little Saturday Market at the Sonoma Community Center. I couldn’t think of a more perfect place for a stroll and to linger with a coffee while perusing beautiful, locally grown produce, art and handmade crafts.
• Paul’s Produce is now offering space to sign up for their weekly CSA or Community Supported Agriculture. Each week, you’ll have a selection of vegetables and greens from the farm, seasonal fruit, free-range eggs and even bread. The cost is $25 per week, additional fee for eggs and bread. Subscribers will have the opportunity to pick up their box at the farm on Arnold Drive or at the Tuesday Farmer’s Market. For more information, email Candi at candied@vom.com or visit paulsproduce.wordpress.com for more information.
• Lucky us! Shoppers at the Friday Farmer’s Market can now pick up the amazing eggs from favorite local Sonoma source, Nix Chix. While you’re there, be sure to sign up for Nick’s “Breakfast CSA,” a perfect weekly share of eggs, sausage and bacon. Also, you can find him and his eggs at the Harvest Market on Saturday mornings at the Sonoma Garden Park. Visit his blog for more information at nixchix.wordpress.com.
On The Menu
• I could not be more excited about the upcoming “Harvest Dinner” on the beautiful patio at ESTATE on Saturday, October 8. One of my all-time favorite winemakers, Randall Grahm from Bonny Doon Vineyards, will be on hand as their special guest. In celebration of the restaurant group’s farm project, the evening’s menu celebrates the bounty of their two-acre garden which supplies vegetable and fruits to the three restaurants all year long. The entire amazing sounding feast, including wine, is a mere $65 (excluding tax and gratuity). To make your reservations call 933.3663.
• Alice Medrich, the Award winning author of “Chewy Gooey Crispy Crunchy Melt in Your Mouth Cookies,” returns to Ramekins on Friday, September 23 at 11 a.m. to introduce you to the world of flourless and gluten-free baking. This hands-on class is limited to 16 students and is $100. Call Ramekins at 933.0450 or visit their website at ramekins.com to make your reservations.
• HopMonk Tavern will host Dogfish Head Brewery for a “Brew Master’s Dinner” on Sunday, September 25 at 6 p.m. Executive Chef Billy Reid has created a special menu which promises to perfectly pair with five of Dogfish Head’s favorite brews. The cost is $55 per person plus gratuity. Call HopMonk at 938.9100 to make your reservations.
Buttermilk Herb Sauce
Makes 1 cup
9 T. buttermilk
3/4 cup Greek yogurt
1 1/2 tbsp olive oil, plus a drizzle to finish
1 small garlic clove, crushed
Pinch of good quality salt
Freshly ground black pepper
Finely chopped fresh soft herbs, such as tarragon, dill, chives and/or parsley
Whisk together all of the ingredients. Taste for seasoning, then keep cold until needed. Serve alongside most anything, including fish, roasted chicken and vegetables. Delicious on sandwiches and as a salad dressing. Will keep well in the refrigerator for up to one week.
Be First to Comment