I do believe I’ve mentioned my desperate quest for “happy dance” inducing cuisine? You know, the feeling; when you take a bite of something that literally stops you mid-chew, while your eyes widen and you begin an uncontrollable, joyful jig of happiness? Left speechless, you slowly, deliberately finish the bite and you realize that, oh gosh, this dish is just that good. During a recent visit to Petaluma’s Central Market, I spent much of the lovely meal quietly dancing in my seat, with sporadic bursts of uncontrollable hand clapping and a big, silly grin on my face. Located in downtown Petaluma, Central Market sits right on the charming town’s main street. The space is utterly delightful, with a rustic brick wall, soaring ceilings and tall windows, which allow for splendid views of the neighboring historic buildings. The light is somehow perfect, soft and golden. A wood-burning oven presides over the dining room, emitting a cozy warmth. The whole effect is completely romantic. Although both the staff and the atmosphere are marvelous, what guests return for over and over is Chef-owner Tony Najiola’s lovingly prepared, seasonal cuisine.
Lingering in the twinkling glow of the restaurant’s string lights we feasted on a glorious parade of cozy, winter-inspired dishes, each more gorgeous than the last. An elegant clam chowder was the ideal choice on that chilly, damp evening. The broth had a subtle smoky quality and was perfectly, delicately creamy. Pretty little pieces of vegetables bobbed around with the clams, simply begging to be scooped up with a hunk of the kitchen’s homemade bread. Our initial glasses of bubbly long gone, we began perusing the smallish wine list, each selection chosen by the chef himself with care and passion. It was about this time that the chef appeared – he always does! – to offer assistance, a happy, frequent occurrence here. His recommendation, a rose-scented, jaunty Italian red was precisely the sort of interesting choice that what we were hoping for and just so happened to pair perfectly with the rest of our meal.
With the first bite of our calamari appetizer, my mind was officially blown. A generous portion of the tiniest baby squid, impeccably fresh and ridiculously tender, arrived tossed amongst a stewy concoction of chickpeas. The edges of each squid were charred to a state of perfection from the scorching heat of the wood-burning oven. The robust broth was heavenly, chickpeas mingling with bits of softened garlic and fresh rosemary, a handful of fresh chopped parsley tossed in at the end was an inspired addition. Again, the restaurant’s yummy bread came in handy, swiping up every last speck of that divine broth. Happy dance ensued. This dish was quite possibly one of the most sublime things I have eaten all year. Looking back, I should have followed my instincts and ordered a second one, particularly since the chef later informed me that the season for the squid is sadly fleeting.
Plenty more happy dance was yet to come. A house-made canneloni pasta was paper-thin and held a velvety mixture of local sheep’s milk ricotta, tender shrimp and softened leeks. I immediately fell in love with the extravagant garnish, a puree of brilliant green nettles, a beautifully fresh, complex counterpart to the luxurious cream sauce. The menu, in its entirety sounds spectacular, but – y’all know me – when there’s a whole fish, it inevitably will be ordered. A whole trout was baked in the wood-burning oven for mere minutes and was the picture of scrumptious simplicity, a few roasted potatoes and a nice, dressed pile of local greens on the side.
It would be tragic to leave without one of the restaurant’s homey desserts. Pudding of any sort tends to be my guilty pleasure and the butterscotch budino, certainly does not disappoint. A rich, silky combination of caramelized sugar and cream, that arrived – to our utter satisfaction – garnished with copious amounts of fresh whipped cream and two of the most delicious macaroons. Bring on the Happy Dance. Central Market, 42 Petaluma Boulevard, 778.9900. Visit the restaurant’s website for more information, to see their menu or to make reservations at centralmarketpetaluma.com.
On The Menu
The “Sixth Annual Gingerbread Contest” takes place at wineries throughout the Valley now through Saturday, December 24, from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily. Each winery has created a gingerbread house, which is displayed in their tasting rooms. Guests are invited to vote for their favorite gingerbread creation. Ballots are available at each winery and each time you vote, you are entered to win a case of fabulous Sonoma Valley wine! It’s a wonderful holiday outing for the whole family. Visit the wineries, sample some of Sonoma Valley’s finest wines, do a little holiday shopping and, of course, vote for your favorite Gingerbread creation. Participating wineries include: B. R. Cohn, Chateau St. Jean, Gundlach Bundschu, Imagery, Kenwood, Larson Family, Nicholson Ranch, Paradise Ridge and Roessler Cellars. For more information visit sonomavalleywine.com.
• Celebrate Christmas Eve during a “Brunch with Santa” at the Community Café on Saturday, December 24, from 9 a.m. to noon. This will be a festive way to start the holiday, while enjoying great food. Children can take their pictures with Santa while adults can sip mimosas. The special brunch items will include a crab and artichoke Benedict, stuffed brioche French toast, a truffled mushroom omelet, cherry-ricotta blintzes and more. $24.95 adults, $14.95 for children under 10 years of age. Includes a Mimosa or Sparkling Apple Cider, Mini Scones and Special Gift. Reservations are recommended and can be made by calling 938.7779. 875 West Napa Street, ccsonoma.com.
• The annual “Christmas Dinner at the Vintage House” is this Sunday, December 25. This traditional holiday meal for local seniors is lovingly prepared and served by volunteers in a festive family atmosphere. Home deliveries are also provided by Sonoma Kiwanas. The meal is free, but reservations are required. Donations are welcome. Call 996.0311 for more information or to make your reservations.
• Celebrate “Three Kings Day” at Gloria Ferrer on Sunday, January 28, beginning at 4 p.m. Guests will enjoy a performance of the Epiphany which honors the Spanish tradition of “El Dia de los Reyes Magos,” while sipping the winery’s sparkling wine, followed by samples of traditional holiday Rosca bread and hot chocolate. Admission is $10 per person. Visit gloriaferrer.com for more information or to purchase tickets. Call 933.1917 or email special.events@gloriaferrer.com with questions.
Grilled Calamari with Chickpeas
Recipe inspired by Central Market
Makes 6 first-course servings
4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 medium yellow onion, fine diced
2 T. chopped, fresh rosemary
1 bay leaf
2 cups cooked chickpeas
3 cups homemade chicken stock (or best quality store bought)
1 pound cleaned calamari (tentacles and bodies)
1/2 cup fresh lemon juice
2 garlic cloves, minced
1/4 cup roughly chopped, pitted Kalamata olives
1/4 cup chopped fresh Italian parsley
1/4 teaspoon dried crushed red pepper
Best quality extra virgin olive oil for garnish (preferably from Sonoma)
Warm 2 tablespoons of the olive oil over medium heat and sauté onion, rosemary and bay until soft. Add chickpeas and stock, and simmer until they’re tender and almost falling apart. Stir occasionally, about 1 hour 15 minutes, and until the stock is reduced by half. Season with salt and pepper and set aside. Place calamari tentacles in medium bowl. Cut calamari bodies lengthwise in half. Using sharp knife, score bodies at 1/2-inch intervals in lattice pattern (do not cut through). Add to bowl. Add 2 tablespoons oil, lemon juice, and garlic; toss to coat. Let stand 1 hour. Prepare grill or grill pan (medium-high heat). Drain calamari; sprinkle with salt and pepper. Grill just until slightly curled at edges, about 30 seconds per side. Stir parsley and olives into warm chickpeas. Divide chickpeas among 6 plates. Top with calamari. Drizzle remaining 3 tablespoons oil over. Sprinkle with crushed red pepper. Serve immediately.
Kristin Viguerie is one of Sonoma’s most passionate, food obsessed residents. In this weekly column, she covers all the delicious happenings, foodie events and restaurants in Sonoma, the rest of Wine Country and beyond. Find her blogging daily as the Cook (thecardiganandcook.com) or via email at foodandwine@sonomasun.com.
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