What brought me to Petaluma the very first time were the rumors that there was some pretty fabulous antiquing to be done there. There definitely is, I love those shops over there, but what keeps me going back time and time again are the great restaurants. This past weekend, I planned an outing to Petaluma; a Saturday, girls-only shopping trip that included lunch, of course. I am not much of a shopper, but if lunch is involved, you know that I am so there! There are endless lovely lunch options lining Petaluma’s two main streets, Petaluma and Kentucky, but my ladies lunching ideal is the charming little bakery and café, Della Fattoria. The door swings open and a gush of warm, bread scented air envelopes you. The sounds of dishes clattering, the tinkling of laughter and the screeching of milk steaming all make for a cheerful hum. Diners cozy up with one another at long, chunky, wooden communal farm tables, with the morning’s paper or today’s crossword puzzle spread between them. The coffee here is rich and eye opening. Deep bowls of café au lait, laden with perfectly steamed Straus Dairy milk, are particularly soul satisfying. The bakery’s gorgeous, rustic breads are stacked beautifully behind the wooden counter, creating a delicious distraction. I simply could not stop staring at them and please do not get me started on the glass case filled with stunning pastries, but more on those later.
On Saturdays and Sundays, the menu is so completely packed with delicious sounding brunch offerings that our group was practically paralyzed by indecision, breakfast or lunch?! Everything sounded so ridiculously good. Della Fattoria is known for their amazing breads, even voted by Bon Appetite magazine as one of the top ten best bakeries in America last year! So, I knew that no matter what we chose, plenty of bread must be involved. While we struggled with our choices, we decided to start with an order of toast with the cafe’s homemade cream cheese and tomato jam. The toast in itself is a revelation, deliciously yeasty and sort of nutty. The dark, crisp crust is simply the best part. The tangy cream cheese slathered lavishly mingles beautifully with the sweet-tart tomato jam. I would be more than happy eating this simple dish for breakfast everyday of my life.
Thankfully we’re a group of sharers, I get to eat more that way! There always seems to be a polenta dish on the menu and if so, you had better order it. Trust me. The generous dish arrived, a steaming bowl of happiness, topped with two poached eggs – raised on the cafe’s own farm! – shaved ham and a tangle of bright green sauteed spinach. The instant my fork dug in, the rich golden yolk oozed into the creamy polenta. With my first bite, my eyes rolled back into my head and a little happy dance ensued. I believe a soft, uncontrollable moan escaped my lips. The sumptuous, buttery yolk, blended with the gutsy corn flavors of the polenta, punctuated by the salty ham was pure bliss, the ideal dish on that blustery winter afternoon. The bakery’s soft Pullman loaf makes an ultimate Croque Monsieur. The sandwich is loaded with ham and Gruyere and griddled until the outside is gloriously toasted and the inside is a comforting, melty mess. An inspired take on the traditional Panzanella salad of yesterday’s bread is a winter version of hearty sunflower seed croutons, roasted butternut squash and tart green apples all tossed in a cidery vinaigrette. I was skeptical that a salad would be appreciated given the chilly day, but the delightful combination was utterly satisfying.
Now, the part you’ve all been waiting for…those pastries. These sweets are not your typical frou frou French offerings that may look beautiful, but often taste blah. Della’s pastries are simple, classic renditions of French and American breakfast sweets and favorite desserts. Croissants are to die for, buttery and impeccably flakey. A dark chocolate version left me thoroughly weak in the knees. A decadent trifle of dark, spiced gingerbread was layered with a opulent portion of fluffy cream and garnished with pretty little slivers of candied ginger. The dessert is served in a cute, clear vessel that you can even take home for your honey if you so desire. The bakery’s cupcakes are always irresistible. The moist, almost still steamy from the oven moist, not too sweet, carrot cake version is a favorite. A zippy whipped cream cheese buttercream frosting piped generously on top, with a proper sugar shell, may easily be the best I’ve ever had. The desserts are all heaven, especially when paired with one more killer latte for the road. How we managed the strength to go shopping after this amazing lunch, I have yet to determine. I couldn’t begin to describe a single antique we may have ogled that day or pair of shoes that were longed after, but lunch at Della Fattoria? It’s always memorable. Della Fattoria is located at 141 Petaluma Boulevard. Visit dellafattoria.com or call 763.0161 for more information.
On The Menu
This Saturday, January 28, from 5:30 to 10 p.m. eat, drink and celebrate Sonoma’s olive season at the annual “Feast of the Olive.” Held at Ramekins, this delicious event features the best local chefs, winemakers and olive oil producers who all pair up to prepare a unique seated dinner. Tickets are $150 per person and reservations are required. Call 996.1090, ext. 108 to purchase yours before they sell out!
• On Friday, February 10, join Ramekins for a very special celebration of the pairing of food and wine with a “Winemaker Dinner with the Bachelor, Ben Flajnik and Envolve Winery.” Contact Ramekin’s for more details and to make your reservation at 933.0450.
• More olive season celebrations at the new HKG Estate Tasting Room in Glen Ellen. On Saturday, February 18, join Chef Khambay and Chef Steven Snook, the new Executive Chef at Kenwood Inn and Spa, for a very special olive-themed dinner. The five-course, wine-paired menu sounds lovely and includes olive poached monkfish, braised lamb shoulder and an olive oil cake with olive oil gelato. The price is an extremely reasonable $55, or $45 for wine club members.
• McEvoy Ranch, the spectacular olive farm outside of Petaluma, is offering two olive related workshops presented by Samantha Dorsey, McEvoy’s Nursery and Vineyard Manager. On Saturday, February 25, from 9 a.m. until noon, is an “Olive Orchard Pruning Workshop.” This indoor lecture covers a variety of pruning topics, followed by an outdoor, hands-on pruning demonstration. On Saturday, March 17, from 9 a.m. until noon, is an “Olive Orchard Management Workshop.” This indoor lecture is most applicable to growers who do so for olive oil production. More details and information for registration can be found at mcevoyranch.com or by calling 707-769-4138. Pre-registration is required.
Gingerbread Trifle
Recipe inspired by Della Fattoria
Serves 8
1 pound loaf of fresh, best-quality store bought
or homemade gingerbread
1 1/2 cups chilled heavy cream
3 tablespoons granulated sugar
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
3 tablespoons chopped crystallized ginger
Preheat oven to 350°F with rack in the middle. Using a serrated knife, cut the gingerbread into one inch pieces and spread out on a cookie sheet in one layer. Very lightly toast the gingerbread, approximately 6-8 minutes. Allow to cool completely. In a medium bowl, beat cream with sugar and vanilla using a mixer until it holds soft peaks.
Using one large, traditional glass trifle dish or 8 individual glasses, assemble the trifle. Put half of the gingerbread cubes in the trifle bowl or glasses. Top with whipped cream. Repeat layering with all of remaining gingerbread and cream. Top with candied ginger. Chill at least 2 hours before serving.
Kristin Viguerie is one of Sonoma’s most passionate, food obsessed residents. In this weekly column, she covers all the delicious happenings, foodie events and restaurants in Sonoma, the rest of Wine Country and beyond. Find her blogging daily as the Cook (thecardiganandcook.com) or via email at foodandwine@sonomasun.com.
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