A new “Star” in Glen Ellen
Opening soon in downtown Glen Ellen, is a sure-to-be-tasty new eatery named Glen Ellen Star. Housed in the charming little building that was home to Saffron for many years, the Star is the brainchild of husband and wife duo Chef Ari Weiswasser and Erinn Benziger-Weiswasser. Ari trained in many high-profile New York City kitchens before moving to Sonoma, and shortly after he completed a sixteen-month stint at the French Laundry. Erinn, daughter of Mike and Mary Benziger, will help oversee the dining room and, appropriately, the wine program. Last week, I had the good fortune to attend a casual “practice” dinner featuring a handful of super scrumptious dishes destined to be on the restaurant’s final menu, all paired with delicious Benziger wines, of course. The couple’s goal is to take advantage of Sonoma’s spectacular goods – locally grown produce, meats and cheeses – many from the Benziger’s own property, and prepare them simply in the restaurant’s blazing hot wood-burning oven. For the practice dinner, the food was all beautifully and skillfully prepared. Classical technique was certainly employed, but the resulting dishes were all cozy and utterly comforting. A loaf of puffy pita bread was pulled from the oven, piping hot and steamy, and was served on a wooden board made from wine staves. Fennel, roasted to a state of perfection, the edges delightfully caramelized, was uncomplicated, but ridiculously good. A chicken breast – not typically my chicken choice – was roasted in a terra cotta dish of salt, resulting in what was easily one of the most deliciously moist pieces of chicken I have ever eaten. An earthy, green Chimichurri sauce was a bright and appreciated accompaniment. While difficult to put the Star’s cuisine in a specific category, I will just call it yummy! The space will be rustic and relaxed, with bare reclaimed wooden tables, a small food bar overlooking the open kitchen and glowing wood-burning oven. Lunch and dinner will both be served. Look for a mid-April opening. Visit glenellenstar.com for more information or to see a sample menu.
Local farm fun
Andrea Davis, local farmer-girl extraordinaire of Sonoma’s favorite little Quarter Acre Farm, has all sorts of news and fun, garden-y sorts of things happening to get you in the mood for another season of growing your own fruits and vegetables. Davis, who last year served as manager for the Tuesday night farmer’s market, has resigned from that position to focus more of her time on her farm, which is in actuality now closer to a full acre. Andrea, for the first time, is offering memberships to her Community Supported Agriculture program, where members will receive a weekly box of certified organic produce directly from the farm. The CSA will run for twenty-six weeks beginning June 28. Full and partial memberships are available. Contact Andrea for more information or to join at quarteracre.sonoma@gmail.com. In more exciting Quarter Acre Farm news, Davis is also leading several classes that any backyard garden enthusiast surely should not miss. Her “Backyard Vegetable Gardening” class is this Sunday, March 18, from 10 a.m. until noon. She’ll discuss how to ensure your garden provides the most bountiful crop this year. On Sunday, April 1, from 10 a.m. until noon, her “Tasty Tomato Talk” is always incredibly informational and covers many unknown ways to ensure your tomatoes are the most delicious. The classes will be held at the Backlot Garden at 243 West Spain and the cost for each class is $10, which includes light refreshments. Reservations are necessary and can be made by emailing quarteracre.sonoma@gmail.com.
Say cheese…and more!
Sheana Davis’ lovely little Plaza shop, the Epicurean Connection, isn’t just a great resource for locally produced cheeses, artisanal products, cheese and charcuterie boards, and fabulous foodie finds. Davis is now serving the most delightful lunch, with seating at the shop’s gorgeous, long wooden communal table. Her menu is a compilation of exactly the types of things anyone in their right mind would really love for lunch. Pretty salads are made with locally sourced greens and homemade dressings, while creative sandwiches are served open-faced on rustic bread. Both feature Davis’ own excellent cheeses, of course, and fun condiments also sold in-store. A selection of soup is available and are all served in cute little canning jars, especially fun when paired with a basket of bread and the “Tasting of Butters.” Be sure to save room for a gargantuan chocolate chip cookie or Graham crackers and a glass of cold Organic milk for dessert. The Epicurean Connection is located at 122 West Napa Street, 935.7960.
On The Menu
Join Transition Sonoma Valley for a “Locavore Potluck, Movie & Presentation” today, Thursday, March 15, beginning at 6:30 p.m. Being held at the Grange in Boyes Hot Springs, this celebration of local food and farmers brings community members and organizations together for a wonderful evening focused on local food! Enjoy potluck fare featuring locally grown food, a thirty-minute film entitled, “Nourish” and a presentation by the farmer from Tara Firma Farms. As a special treat, attendees will get to see a sneak peek of “The Organic Life,” a documentary about a small Sonoma farm. For more information, visit trasitionsonomavalley.org.
Salt-Baked Chicken
Recipe inspired by Glen Ellen Star
Despite its name, this chicken is not at all salty. The kosher salt helps form an enclosed dome in which the chicken is sealed and baked, creating the most moist chicken I’ve ever tasted in my life.
1 to 2 boxes of Kosher Salt
1 six-to-seven pound chicken
1/2 lemon
Springs of thyme
Fresh ground black pepper
Spritzes of water
Preheat oven to 375. Unwrap chicken, remove giblets and pat dry with paper towels. Rub cavity with lemon, black pepper and thyme. Pepper the chicken skin as well. In a deep-sided casserole or roasting pan drizzle in about 1/4 of the kosher salt as a bed. Lay the chicken breast side down on top of the salt and use the rest of the salt to totally cover the chicken. Once properly covered with salt you should not be able to see the chicken at all. Using a spray bottle or just your fingers, carefully drizzle some water over the salt. This will help the salt form a hard cover when in the oven. Bake for one hour and fifteen minutes and remove from oven. Let rest ten minutes. Crack the top and the dome of salt should pop right off. Remove chicken and transfer to a cutting board. If any salt is stuck to the chicken you can simply brush it off. Carve as desired.
Kristin Jorgensen is one of Sonoma’s most passionate, food obsessed residents. In this weekly column, she covers all the delicious happenings, foodie events and restaurants in Sonoma, the rest of Wine Country and beyond. Find her blogging daily as the Cook at thecardiganandcook.com or via email at foodandwine@sonomasun.com.
Be First to Comment