The Fourth of July, for me, typically conjures happy thoughts of sketchy Southern roadside stands hawking cheap fireworks, late night bonfires at my family’s rustic mountain barn, the little – and not so little – kids running crazy with sparklers, writing our names in the darkened night sky. Lightning bugs glowing eerily, easily confused with the stars, the sparklers, and the embers from the fire. Earlier memories consist of my grandfather shooting his canon off, lighting the short fuse with his stubby cigar, simply scaring the pants off the neighbors. We would swim all day in the pool, our little fingers and toes wrinkled and soggy, our cold lips purple and hair white from the sun. I remember all of these things like it was yesterday, so many long holiday afternoons and nights at the houses of my grandparents who, no matter our age, we always spent our Fourth holidays with. There were always organized games of toss the egg, the three-legged race, or tug of war, the competition fierce, but always so much fun. I remember those days with such fondness, looking back they were true Americana, the glossy magazine versions of our most American of holidays. I loved those days for being able to run free with my cousins and for snuggling in a big, scratchy beach towel on grandpa’s lap, soaking wet, but completely, happily worn out. I loved those days for the way the sun felt on my pink shoulders, always surrounded by water and family.
Whenever I look back on past Fourth of July holidays, I smile at those memories, but what I mostly smile remembering are the fabulous food memories. During those long, sun-filled holidays around the pool we often ate salty fried chicken, soggy from my wet fingers, not even wanting to dry off before shoveling food in my hungry mouth. Some years, we grilled burgers which mom formed into huge patties and dad grilled rare, a faint hint of lighter fluid lingering. Mom got even us kids hooked on crumbling a startling amount of stinky blue cheese on our hot burgers and then finishing off the towering mess with a big, crunchy ring of green bell pepper and potent red onion. There was crunchy, sweet cabbage-carrot slaw – which mom put raisins in! – and baked beans sticky from brown sugar and smoky from the random chunks of German sausage floating here and there. There was always my grandma’s white corn bread prepared in her heavy cast iron skillet, generously greased with bacon drippings that forever lived in a Mason jar right on the kitchen counter. Fourth of July in those years wouldn’t have been Fourth of July without a frozen American flag ice cream cake from the Carvel on the corner, it was so good even though the garish colored frosting undoubtedly dyed our lips blue and red.
More recently, Fourth of July barbecues in my family have centered on long-cooked pork pieces bubbling away all day in a sweet-tangy-spicy homemade sauce and served on soft potato buns charred on the grill. I still whip up a batch of mom’s brown sugar beans, which I try not to devour before the party even starts. In lieu of grandpa’s port wine cheese with Triscuits and celery sticks or dad’s Buffalo fried gator nuggets, we might do chilled oysters on the half shell or melon and Prosciutto, and sometimes just-made guacamole and tortilla chips. Southern-style shrimp is a must, made days before where they sit in the fridge bobbing in a vinegary pickling liquid laden with slivers of jalapeno and crunchy carrots. My favorite Fourth drinks are refreshing and always served from oversized glass jars. A fresh watermelon agua fresca is always fun, especially with a dose of tequila.
I do truly love the Fourth of July and I can’t think of a more ideal place to spend it than in Sonoma. My holiday now wouldn’t be complete without waking up early and riding my bike down to the Plaza where my group will laze on our blankets in the shade of the big trees, sipping Mimosas and nibbling local cheeses. I love that the passionate Sonoma folk begin to line up their folding chairs for the parade the day before and that we create elaborate picnic meals for the occasion all while watching the cute local kids run around like crazy, creating their own unique memories of the Fourth.
Strawberry-Rhubarb Crisp
Here, Chef Andrew Wilson of Carneros Bistro & Wine Bar at The Lodge at Sonoma shares one of his favorite memories of the Fourth of July:
“Most years I spent the Fourth of July at my grandmother Mimi’s home, a little red cape cod-style house in Connecticut. Think picture book granny house, and you’ve pretty much got it. Mimi lived near the Long Island sound, so every evening there was a fish monger on her main street, selling seafood from his van. The night of July 3rd, she’d boil lobsters, then on the 4th we’d take a picnic of lobster rolls (lobster salad in toasted sweet white rolls) to the fire works display. Mimi also always packed her beloved sweet gherkin pickles, Coke in the little 8 oz. bottles for me, and a thermos of gin and tonics for her sister and herself. Good times!”
Chef Wilson’s Grandma Mimi’s Strawberry-Rhubarb Crisp
4 cups fresh rhubarb, 1-inch diced (4 to 5 stalks)
4 cups fresh strawberries, hulled and halved, if large
1 1/4 cups granulated sugar
1 1/2 teaspoons grated orange zest
1 tablespoon cornstarch
1/2 cup freshly squeezed orange juice
1 cup all-purpose flour
1/2 cup light brown sugar, lightly packed
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
1 cup quick-cooking (not instant) oatmeal
1/2 cup chopped macadamia nuts
12 tablespoons (1 1/2 sticks) cold unsalted butter, diced
Vanilla ice cream, for serving
Candied ginger, finely diced for garnish
Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F. For the fruit, toss the rhubarb, strawberries, 3/4 cup of the granulated sugar, and the orange zest together in a large bowl. In a measuring cup, dissolve the cornstarch in the orange juice and then mix it into the fruit. Pour the mixture into an 8 X 11 inch baking dish, or into individual deep ramekins, and place it on a sheet pan lined with parchment paper. For the topping, in the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, combine the flour, the remaining 1/2 cup granulated sugar, the brown sugar, salt, oatmeal, and macadamia nuts. With the mixer on low speed, add the butter and mix until the dry ingredients are moist and the mixture is in crumbles. Sprinkle the topping over the fruit, covering it completely, and bake for 1 hour (less for individual portions), until the fruit is bubbling and the topping is golden brown. Serve warm with ice cream topped with a sprinkling of candied ginger.
On The Menu
• Don’t forget about Murphy’s Irish Pub and their “Sixth Annual All American Music Festival” held on the Fourth of July from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. The all-day festival is always a blast, featuring back-to-back bands that include Tudo Bem, Midnight Sun Massive, and more! The beer will be flowing and the oysters will be grilling all day. Call Murphy’s for more information at 935.0660.
• Napa’s Kitchen Door is hosting another festive “Craft Beer Dinner,” this time with Sierra Nevada Brewing Company. The fabulous and fun restaurant in the Oxbow Marketplace starts this great sounding event on Monday, July 16, with a reception at 6:15 p.m. and followed by a five-course dinner, each course paired with it’s perfect beer. An informative discussion of each beer will be lead by the super knowledgeable folks from Sierra Nevada. Tickets are $65 per person and can be purchased by calling 226.1560 or emailing tim@kitchendoornapa.com.
• Another “Songwriters in Sonoma” event is happening on Thursday, July 19, at the Community Cafe featuring Tony Gibson, Garrett Pierce, and Sarah Summers. The monthly music series is produced by Meadowcroft Wines and sponsored by the Sonoma-based website, Musicnomad.com and is a unique and inspiring evening of local music. Community Cafe will be offering a special evening menu accompanied by an extensive menu of Meadowcroft and Thomas Henry Wines. Tickets are only $10, with doors opening at 6 p.m. and music beginning at 7 p.m. Reservations are highly recommended and can be made by calling 934.4090.
Kristin Jorgensen is one of Sonoma’s most passionate, food obsessed residents. In this weekly column, she covers all the delicious happenings, foodie events and restaurants in Sonoma, the rest of Wine Country and beyond. Find her blogging daily as the Cook at thecardiganandcook.com or via email at foodandwine@sonomasun.com.
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