During the past couple of long, long summer days, I can’t seem to shake the tropics. Is it the Southern gal in me, a little Florida cracker involuntarily sneaking out? I am not quite sure what it’s about. It might be our lengthy string of perfect days or my somewhat nostalgic mood, but everyday simply screams “Reggae Sunday” and all I want to do, all I can manage to do, is to lie on a lawn chair, face to the sky. Sigh.
I can’t help but to constantly cruise around with the top down, dreaming of beach escapes filled with fruity cocktails, the unmistakable sounds of a steel drum band, and bobbing weightlessly in saltwater that is as warm as a just-drawn bath. Nothing is tasting very good to me, all I hunger for is a whole fish plucked from the sea minutes before it’s plunked on my plate. A sparkling, chile-flecked ceviche of teeny bay scallops would do the trick as well, or really anything made with mango. Right now on this summer Sonoma day, I am craving comfort and familiarity, and for me that’s sticky fried plantains, saucy black beans, homemade hot sauce with a vinegary bite, and don’t forget the too-sweet, syrupy flan chased down with an also too-sweet Cuban coffee.
There certainly are not many options for fulfilling your tropical fantasies in Wine Country. I believe that when even thinking about ordering a rum drink in these parts you just might get the stink eye from the winemaker one stool over. And plantains? Forget it. There is only one spot in the North Bay that completely satiates my yearning for a taste of home and that is Sol Food, the mini Latin restaurant empire in downtown San Rafael. Started in 2003 as a farmer’s market booth pedaling homemade goodies that would make any Puerto Rican grandmother proud, the Sol family now consists of a “small place,” a “big place,” and a “takeaway place,” all bearing the very apropos name “Sol Food.” The “small place” is where I devoured my first Cuban sandwich west of the Maxon-Dixon line, scalding my tongue on a way-too-hot cafe con leche, prepared exactly like they do it at every walk up window stall in Miami. I can’t even begin to tell you just how happy the sight of this tiny open air spot makes me with it’s abundance of palm trees blowing in the Bay breezes, the shabby tin roofing and bright coral-colored paint instantly taking me back to many a happy day spent bopping around the islands.
All three places serve a similar roster of Latin comfort food for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Breakfast could quite possibly be my most beloved meal here; the just-squeezed orange juice is reason enough for a pit stop. Oh, and then there’s that coffee. A simple egg sandwich gets the Northern California treatment with local, organic eggs, gooey with Swiss cheese, and pressed between two slices of typical, eggy bread that crackles magically when bitten into. There couldn’t be a more ideal place to linger on a weekend morning, for the exception of Havana itself of course.
Lunchtime sandwiches all arrive beautifully toasty and golden from the press. The most popular item, no matter what time of day, is the Bistec Sandwich. It’s a messy, but fabulously cheesy combination of shaved steak, smothered with sweet caramelized onions, avocado, Swiss and a garlicky mayonnaise. I love that bread immeasurably, but the idea of replacing it with two tostones, the filling layered between two large discs of smashed and fried plantains, sounds divine.
If you want to visit the “big place” on a night that will definitely transport you to the islands, go on a Thursday evening when the house band, Mixto Crillio, beats out an energetic array of Latin tunes on the bongos. What to eat while listening to bongos? Well, Camarones Crillios, of course! The rustic stew is warm with Creole spices, the large shrimp coated in a rich tomato sauce. The perfectly prepared white rice catches all the yummy juices and, the best part? My favorite fried, sweet and sticky plantains arrive on the side. At times, I truly need nothing more than my plantain fix and opt for a generous – and cheap! – platter of nothing more than the starchy bananas, crispy and topped with a startling amount of melted Swiss cheese and equal amounts of creamy, sliced avocado. Everything and anything here benefit from a good dousing of the restaurant’s legendary hot sauce, which is so utterly addictive that you’ll more than likely take home a bottle. Choose a freezing cold beer, mango ice tea or a Coco Rico, a fun imported coconut soda, and it’s not difficult to imagine that you’re somewhere way south of here. Sol Food, for me, truly feeds my soul. For more information and to experience one of the most fun websites ever, visit solfoodrestaurant.com. They are located in downtown San Rafael, telephone 415.451.4765.
On The Menu
Next week’s Dining Club Rive Gauche is “Tapas and White Trash,” held at the Finnish American Home Association on Wednesday, August 8. The menu of Spanish goodies sounds tasty and includes gazpacho, paella and poached figs while the “white trash” element comes from musician Ron Hacker who will perform his “white trash blues.” The price for the four-course dinner per person is a mere $35, plus gratuity. Bring your own wine. Call 996.0900 to make your necessary reservations.
Three very distinct and unique singer-songwriters take the stage on Thursday, August 16 for the third performance of the Meadowcroft Wines’ popular music series “Songwriters in Sonoma” at the Community Café. Chris James, Steve Kritzer and Ash Thursday will be performing their original songs. Doors open at 6 p.m. and showtime is at 7 p.m. Tickets are $10 per person and available by calling the tasting room at 934.4090. The Community Café will provide a special menu accompanied by an extensive menu of Meadowcroft and Thomas Henry wines. Reservations are highly recommended. The Community Cafe is located at 875 West Napa Street.
Sheana Davis has plenty of foodie fun in the coming weeks at her Plaza shop and cafe, the Epicurean Connection. On August 3, from 6 p.m. to 8 p.m. she throws an “Artist Reception with Deanna Hurbartt” featuring Wildhurst Wines and on August 12 is another of her “Home Cheesemaking Classes” beginning at 1 p.m. Sheana always has tons of delicious stuff going on in-store. Visit her website for a complete listing of upcoming events at theepicureanconnection.com or pop in at 122 West Napa Street.
You’re invited to attend a “Lots O’ Lavender Workshop” on Saturday, August 4, from 10 a.m. to noon at the Sonoma Garden Park. Tina Tedesco will help participants discover the many medicinal and aromatic properties of lavender during this workshop. In addition, she will offer lavender recipes for skin healing salves, liniments, and creams, as well as ways to incorporate lavender into foods. The workshop is suitable for all levels of experience, and costs $10 for Sonoma Ecology Center members and $15 for non-members. All proceeds benefit Sonoma Garden Park, located at 19996 Seventh Street East, between MacArthur and Denmark Streets in Sonoma. For more information, or to register for the workshop, visit the Sonoma Ecology Center website at sonomaecologycenter.org or contact Megan FitzSimmons at 996-0712, ext.113, or at megan@sonomaecologycenter.org
Tostones (fried green plantains)
Recipe inspired by Sol Food Restaurant
In many Latin American countries, crunchy tostones are as popular as French fries are here. A single bite of their salty crust and tender interior will tell you why they’re so beloved.
Makes 4 servings as a side dish or appetizer
2 pound large unripe (green) plantains (about 3)
About 2 cups vegetable oil
2 cups warm water
Cut ends from each plantain with a sharp small knife, then cut a lengthwise slit through peel. Cut plantains crosswise into 1-inch-thick pieces and, beginning at slit, pry off peel. Heat 1/2 inch oil in a deep 10- to 12-inch heavy skillet over medium heat until just hot enough to sizzle when a piece of plantain is added. Fry plantains in 2 batches, turning occasionally with tongs, until tender and just golden, 5 to 7 minutes per batch. Transfer plantains to paper towels to drain, reserving oil in skillet. Flatten each plantain to 1/4 inch thick with a tostone press or bottom of a heavy saucepan. Stir together warm water and 1/2 teaspoon salt in a bowl. Heat reserved oil over medium heat until it shimmers. Dip a flattened plantain in salted water and gently place, without patting dry, in hot oil. (Plantains will not spatter.) Repeat with several more pieces and fry plantains (without crowding) in 4 or 5 batches, turning occasionally, until golden, about 3 minutes per batch. Transfer with tongs to clean paper towels to drain. Season with salt and serve immediately.
Kristin Jorgensen is one of Sonoma’s most passionate, food obsessed residents. In this weekly column, she covers all the delicious happenings, foodie events and restaurants in Sonoma, the rest of Wine Country and beyond. Find her blogging daily as the Cook at thecardiganandcook.com or via email at foodandwine@sonomasun.com.
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