There is hardly a thing, I think it safe to say, that a long, lovely drive in a convertible won’t cure. I believe this to be especially true when the day is a sparkling, late summer Sonoma stunner and the destination includes a fancy, four-star lunch, an über heavenly spa treatment, and lazing for hours in the hot afternoon sun beside a silky mineral pool. This week’s short trip to Calistoga, left me feeling utterly transported…mentally and physically. The sun up there, that day, seemed sunnier somehow, the heat shimmered in waves along the wild western-ish main street. The Napa hills are as dry as ours right now, the most glorious shades of gold, which seem particularly dramatic against the lush, wet, emerald green of the vines. After pulling into Solage – Calistoga’s most gorgeous resort and our destination for the day – I stepped from the car, still for a moment, absorbing the magical, serene feeling of the soft morning light brilliantly reflecting off of billions of tiny dust particles floating up into the super dry air.
I could easily fill up page after page with gushing descriptions of the resort’s immaculate grounds which are dotted with wild grasses, spectacular flowering vines, and gnarled old olive trees loaded with the fattest, almost ripe, olives I have ever seen clinging heavily to their branches. It wouldn’t be impossible to compose an entire novel regarding the serenity of the spa. We languished in the tranquility there, where our absolutely to-die-for, lavender-mineral clay body treatments – sigh – left us embarrassingly lazy. Afterwards we bobbed happily in the silky water of the spring-fed pool for most of the rest of the perfect afternoon. Although, I do happen to be a food columnist, so I can imagine y’all are wondering, “But, what was for lunch?!”
Maybe I was simply delirious with hunger – spa treatments are just so exhausting! – but, our lunch on that hot-hot, unhurried summer afternoon, as we lolled on the atmospheric patio at Solbar was simply divine in every single way. The resort’s Michelin-starred dining room is a study in chic elegance, with slate-topped tables spilling onto a breezy, shaded terrace. We lingered here, quietly overlooking the pool, blissfully working our way through the market-inspired menu, sipping on glasses of icy cold dry Gewürztraminer.
A chilled Brentwood corn soup sounded like the ideal summer starter. The spoon barely touched my lips when my eyes grew wide as saucers and I slowly looked at my companion, eyes still wide. Oh my gosh. I looked back at the bowl, hardly comprehending that something so beautiful could have originated there in that bowl and not in my dreams. Yes, I dream of food. With every cold spoonful, I felt sweet summer sunshine literally course through my veins. It was corn exaggerated. The most corniest corn soup I have ever had. It was velvet creaminess and topped with lovely little chunks of decadent avocado. It took everything in my power to not lick the bowl. I think at that moment, I could have died and been perfectly content. I know there was conversation happening, but I was only half-listening. I wanted so badly to demand another bowl – and hurry garcon! – but willpower prevailed. For the record: willpower is highly overrated.
It strikes me that I must sound like a broken record blathering on and on about the joys of locally grown, seasonal food. That it’s probably monotonous to read endlessly of the utter beauty of a just-picked, black-red tomato or tender Romano beans or a soft, fuzzy peach that smells of wildflowers and tastes of honey. I have faith that Solbar’s Executive Chef Brandon Sharp would agree with me that if it is monotony, delicious monotony it is. The kitchen here obsesses over this very same credo. Take a pristine product, prepare it simply, don’t screw it up. Don’t be mistaken that this is simple food though, this is years of knowledge, of obvious skill.
Our “simple” tomato salad was anything but. Gorgeous wedges of Barney Welsh’s heirloom tomatoes were at their ideal ripeness, set casually atop a lavish puddle of fresh ricotta that tasted of pure, rich cream…solidified. Delicate little rings of shallot were appreciated for their pep, while a toasted breadcrumb gremolata propelled the dish from ho hum to oh yum. Lessons learned: crunchy breadcrumbs just make everything better and whoever Barney Welsh is, I owe him a hug.
Oh fish tacos how do I love thee? Here, very much. Oh, yes indeed. Delicate chunks of Petrale Sole are hand-dusted in the lightest of cornmeal batter and arrive impeccably crisp. The tortillas are obviously homemade, providing more wonderful, corny goodness. Literally in a coma of ecstasy, first from the mud and now from the food, our final, and most anticipated dish, arrived. A quivering hunk of the most stunning slow-cooked, heritage pork shoulder that you’ve ever seen. This signature dish, dubbed the “Lucky Pig,” arrives in an enviable colored enamelware crock, the drama of its presentation almost enough to warrant ordering it. We eagerly tore at slabs of the succulent pig and loaded up the accompanying crepes and lettuce cups, topping each with fistfuls of the thoughtfully made garnishes; pickled pineapple and Mongolian peanuts. This lunch, this amazing day at Solage, reminds me that summer truly makes everything good. Contact Solage for details regarding dining, the spa, and overnight accommodations by visiting their website at solagecalistoga.com or bay calling 866.942.7442.
CHILLED CORN SOUP
Serves 8
Recipe from Sol Bar
Chef Sharp says, “Although it makes our jobs much harder, we take pride in not repeating seasonal dishes year in and year out. This corn soup is the rare exception to the rule. Our diners don’t believe me when I tell them it’s vegan, because the velvety richness seems to imply the use of cream and cheese, when it’s fact just a little bit of kitchen science. In the simmering process, the natural starches in the corn seize, and when we puree the soup, those starches give it a luscious texture that is normally associated with high-fat preparations and ingredients. Let your imagination or leftovers run wild when it comes to garnishing this soup . . . it’s as good with crushed tortilla chips and crumbled chorizo as it is with lobster, tarragon, and tomato concassé.”
¼ cup canola or vegetable oil
16 ears ripe yellow corn, shucked
1 ea large Spanish onion, small dice
2 cloves garlic, Microplaned
1 bu fresh thyme, tied in a bundle
1 qt water
Kosher salt
2 ripe avocados
24 leaves fresh cilantro
2 limes, cut into 1/6’s
Using a sharp knife, carefully cut the kernels off the cobs of corn. Collect the kernels in one bowl, and before discarding the cobs, scrape them with the back of your knife and reserve the resulting juice. Set aside four cups of the kernels. Place the remaining kernels in a blender and pulse till pureed and the liquefied. Combine this liquid with the juice you scraped from the cobs (you should have 3-4 cups).
In a heavy-gauge saucepot sweat the onion in the oil over a medium flame, stirring often, until very soft. Season with a pinch of salt, and add the four cups of corn kernels with another pinch of salt. Sauté the corn over medium-low heat until tender, and try not to brown the bottom of the pot. Once the corn is tender and sweet, stir in the thyme and garlic, then immediately add the water and corn juice. Over a low flame, bring the soup to a simmer and let it cook very gently for ten minutes. The natural starches will begin to curdle. Remove the thyme and discard. Working in batches, stir the soup and ladle it into your blender—it’s dangerous to fill the blender more than 2/3 full—and puree till the kernels are broken down and the soup is silky. Using a small ladle, press it through a Chinois or fine mesh strainer. Chill, re-season as needed, and serve very cold, garnished with diced avocado, cilantro leaves, and a squeeze of fresh lime juice.
On the Menu
Don’t forget Tuesdays are “Local’s Night” at Napa’s Oxbow Marketplace. It’s simply the best time to visit the sprawling food hall. Diners enjoy discounts from all the vendors, particularly exciting are the half-price oysters and wine specials at Hog Island Oyster Bar and the $1 mini cupcakes from Kara’s. Visit oxbowpublicmarket.com for more information.
Rosso Pizzeria and Mozzarella Bar in Petaluma, the extraordinarily tasty pizza spot and wine bar, has started a daily “Aperitivo Hour.” Everyday from 3 to 7 p.m. small plates are $2 to $6 and beer and wine are also on special. In addition, every Monday is “Meatball Monday” where a platter of homemade pasta, meatballs, and a carafe of Sangiovese is $13! Yum! Visit rossopizzeria.com for details.
Matanzas Creek Winery hosts a “Jazzy After Work: Concert and Happy Hour” on Thursday evening, September 6, from 5 to 8 p.m. Linger under the oaks sampling gourmet food, sipping fantastic wines, and listening to live jazz from the Gary Johnson Quintet. For reservations or for more information, call 800.668.5887.
The Epicurean Connection hosts an artist reception with New Orleanian artist Rex Dingler on Friday, September 7, beginning at 6 p.m. In addition, Sheana will be offering “Paint Parties” at the shop in partnership with Sonoma Valley Museum of Art during the week of September 4. For more information call the Epicurean Connection at 935.7960.
Kristin Jorgensen is one of Sonoma’s most passionate, food obsessed residents. In this weekly column, she covers all the delicious happenings, foodie events and restaurants in Sonoma, the rest of Wine Country and beyond. Find her blogging daily as the Cook at thecardiganandcook.com or via email at foodandwine@sonomasun.com.
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