It’s almost impossible to pry myself from the warmth of my comfy bed these days. I manage to partially open one eye and focus on the drapes covering the tall windows, hoping for light, but a bit heartbroken when it’s still dark at almost 7 a.m. Most mornings lately, I wake to the soft misting of a typical winter morning — finally — our normal winter rains finally here, the sound of fat, wet drops muffling the other morning noises. For months I mentally prepare for our winter rains with thoughts of preparing my go-to comfort foods, long evenings spent staring happily into a bubbling soup pot or sitting in front of a fire delving into my newest cookbook, glass of something red in hand. Or, I head to one of my beloved rainy day eateries to indulge in warming fare and long conversations. It is that time of year and I am seriously craving comfort, more so than previous winter months and rain or no rain, I will fill my evenings with the dishes that leave me feeling full. My belly warm and my heart and soul comforted. Here is where and what I can’t stop eating now.
Best rainy day dining
Taste of the Himalayas, the tiny spot in the cobblestoned alley across from Murphy’s, is a favorite locals spot for not only super attentive service, a cozy atmosphere and fabulous wine bargains, but also for the tongue tingling sensation of Nepalese cuisine. The Tikka, my favorite, is a lush concoction of exotic spice, tomato and cream. The Tandoori offerings are less spicy, but delicious all the same. They arrive in a cloud of delicious smelling smoke and are especially scrumptious when topped with heaping spoonfuls of the secret, ‘spicy sauce,’ which is filled with ginger and something with a whole lot of kick. Charming copper pots of each dish are fun to share, fluffy Basmati rice is always absolutely perfect and blankets of Naan are buttery and decadent when used to scoop of the last drop of that yummy sauce. The teeny corner booth is the epitome of heavenly on a rainy night, snuggling up with friends, and ordering one more bottle.
Della Fattoria. No matter when I visit this downtown Petaluma cafe, the door swings open and a gush of warm, bread scented air envelops me like a hug. The sounds of dishes clattering, the tinkling of laughter, and the screeching of milk steaming all make for a cheerful hum. Diners nestle with one another at long, chunky, wooden communal farm tables, the morning’s paper or today’s crossword puzzle spread between them. The coffee here is rich and eye opening. Deep bowls of café au lait, laden with perfectly steamed Straus Dairy milk, are particularly soul satisfying. The bakery’s gorgeous, rustic breads are stacked beautifully behind the wooden counter, creating a delicious distraction. The menu is so completely packed with always-delicious cooked offerings, amazing bread-filled plates, and killer pastries. I would be more than happy eating here everyday of my life, but it is particularly perfect in the rain.
La Salette. The absolute most scrumptious spot in Sonoma when the rain is puddling cold and fierce is while snuggling up at the intimate little food bar at LaSalette. This ridiculously romantic spot overlooks the restaurant’s atmospheric wood burning oven. Gorgeous tiles ring the wide opening where chefs slide in dish after dish of winter-worthy fare; roasting whole fish, fat sea scallops, hearty vegetables and more. I have spent many a stormy Sonoma evening here, it is truly a heavenly spot to keep warm with a big glass of vinho tinto and a decadent dish like LaSalette’s slow-cooked lamb shank served over their creamy polenta. Be sure to finish your evening the way I would, with a glass of port and a few impeccable bites of Portuguese cheese.
Must-have winter ingredient: chicken livers
I understand that they’re not the sort of thing everyone craves — or even likes much, for that matter. They are liver-y after all and often horribly overcooked. Well, I love liver-y. Which is sort of interesting considering the fact that I wouldn’t have touched liver with a ten foot pole when I was young, much to my liver-loving mother’s dismay. Nowadays I simply cannot get enough liver-y goodness and am sad that, although understandably, restaurants don’t offer much in the way of livers nowadays. I totally have a deep affection for a chef that has a similar love for liver – not to mention one that has the good sense not to overcook them – and that is why I love those guys over at the girl and the fig. There is always something, it seems, liver-full on the ever-changing menu. A recent dish of quick sautéed livers mingled among wonderfully bacon-y greens, all topped with a runny fried chicken egg was nothing short of happy-dance inducing.
A girlfriend makes a luxurious chicken liver mousse that I often dream of. It is a gorgeous, lush, combination of livers and brandy all baked gently in a warm water bath. A ruby red gelée of wine graces the top, infusing each bite with a cold burst of pretty, boozy goodness. Smeared on a butter soaked, toasted hunk of rustic baguette there couldn’t possibly be a more staggeringly perfect winter nibble. Chicken livers are easily procured at most markets, although I stress sourcing ones from organic chickens, such as the ones from Mary’s available at either Whole Foods or Sonoma Market.
Chicken Liver Mousse with Wine Gelée
This beautifully smooth pâté can be set up in small jars for a more festive presentation up to two days ahead. A simple wine jelly topping serves as both a conversation starter and a tart-sweet counterpoint to the rich mousse.
Mousse:
- 1 pound chicken livers, cleaned
- 4 cups milk, divided
- 2 cups (4 sticks) unsalted butter, room temperature, divided
- 3 tablespoons finely chopped shallots
- 3 sprigs thyme
- 2 tablespoons Calvados (apple brandy)
- 2 teaspoons kosher salt plus more
- 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Gelée:
- 1 teaspoon unflavored gelatin
- 2 teaspoons sugar
- 3/4 cup red wine or port
Mellow the flavor of the chicken livers by placing them in a glass bowl with 2 cups milk. Cover; chill for 2 hours. Drain; discard milk. Return livers to same bowl, add the remaining 2 cups milk, cover, and chill for 2 more hours (or overnight). Drain; discard milk and rinse livers. Pat dry with paper towels. Set a fine-mesh strainer over a medium bowl; set aside. Melt 2 tablespoons butter in a large skillet over medium-low heat. Add shallots and thyme and cook, stirring occasionally, until shallots are very soft, about 10 minutes. Add livers, increase heat to medium, and cook, turning once, until livers are firm but still pink inside, about 4 minutes. Remove pan from heat and stir in Calvados. Return to heat; cook until Calvados is reduced by half, about 30 seconds. Discard thyme.
Transfer liver mixture to a food processor; add 2 teaspoons salt and pepper. Process until smooth. With processor running, add remaining butter by tablespoonfuls until all butter is incorporated. Transfer mousse to prepared strainer. Using a rubber spatula, press mousse through strainer. Rinse and dry strainer, then strain mousse again, discarding solids in strainer. Divide among small jars. Chill until firm, 1–2 hours.
Place 1/4 cup water in a medium microwave-safe bowl. Sprinkle gelatin over water and let stand until softened, about 10 minutes. Microwave gelatin mixture until gelatin dissolves and mixture becomes clear, about 30 seconds. Add sugar; stir until dissolved. Stir in wine. Spoon gelée over mousse in jars, forming a 1/4″ layer (not all gelée may be used). Top each jar with thyme sprigs or leaves, if desired. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate until gelée is set, about 1 hour. Let mousse soften slightly at room temperature for 30 minutes before serving with good, toasted bread.
30-second rant: poor collard greens
I will be the very first person to admit that I have a somewhat embarrassing addiction to kale. Particularly the Dino variety with the tall, dark green, ruffly leaves. And, particularly when simply shredded and dressed with a tart lemon vinaigrette and a shameful amount of grated, salty Parmesan cheese. I consume mass quantities of the stuff. Although, my diet is heavily permeated with many leafy veggies. I have no idea why kale has gotten all the attention as of late! Poor collard greens! Why does kale get all the trendy glory? Collard greens, in my most humble, southern opinion, should be the new kale. The large, tender leaves are just as delicious, if not more so. A quick chiffonade brightens up a hearty soup; just toss them in at the last minute. They also are gorgeous when simply shaken in a pan with a bit of peppery olive oil and a scattering of good, crunchy salt. Just shake a tad of vinegar on right before to enliven them up. Please people, give collard greens some time in the limelight.
Favorite rainy day escape
Sebastopol is home to one of my all-time favorite wineries, Iron Horse Vineyards. Just veer off Highway 116 north of town, meander past the majestic Gravenstein orchards, and literally over the hills and through the woods, and you arrive at the winery’s sort of ramshackle tasting ‘room’ and its stunning, miles-long views. Cozy up to the covered outdoor bar and taste your way through the estate grown and crazy-good sparkling wines all while gazing over the 350 acres of vineyards and Mt. St. Helena in the distance. Follow-up all the bubbly with a long lunch at the convivial Underwood Bar and Bistro, located just a few minutes away in the minuscule town of Graton. The local gathering spot for the West County winery elite, the Underwood is strangely chic and is always immeasurably satisfying. Especially in the rain, where a glass of something red — perhaps a Merry Edwards Pinot from just a few miles away – is the perfect accompaniment to one of my go-to dishes, the marvelous duck confit over bacon-studded lentils or a stellar blue cheese-topped burger.
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