Thanksgiving has never been a traditional holiday for the Della Santina family. Although, whenever you put an Italian in the middle of an affair based around food and wine, it usually comes out alright! Thus is the case at my mom and dad’s house in Marin once a year. We usually show up early in the afternoon and are welcomed by aromas in the kitchen that remind me of my grandmother’s house in Lucca, Italy. Of course there’s football on the television but more importantly on the kitchen table lies an assortment of salume including: prosciutto di Parma, speck, pancetta and maybe some salame Toscano. An assortment of olives and formaggio (cheeses) are likely there as well.
This is where our wine journey usually begins. Since I am known as the “wine guy” in our family, it is my responsibility to provide for the day’s events. With the salume, I might open some bubbly including a Prosecco di Valdobiadene, Bel Casel ($15) from the area outside of Venice or maybe a domestic Gruet Brut Rose from New Mexico ($18). If someone’s not in the mood for sparkling, I’ll pop some rose from France – Domain Des Ouches, Bargueil Rose 2008($14) or maybe one from Chile like the Montes Cherub Rose of Syrah 2008 ($17).
When dinner begins, the menu might include a salad course and perhaps a zuppa di faro – Tuscan barley soup drizzled with extra-virgin olive oil. With this soup and salad course, I love to pair some Vernaccia di San Gemignano, Tenuta Mormoraia 2007 ($17) from Tuscany or even some MAN Chenin Blanc from South Africa 2008 ($12).
Next, there has to be a pasta – otherwise it wouldn’t be an Italian Thanksgiving. On the menu might be some papardelle cinghiale, a handmade wide ribbon noodle topped with a wild boar ragu. Pinot Nero from Icardi called Nej 2003 ($18) goes perfectly with this dish. However, if you’re not in the mood for Pinot Noir from the Piedmont region of Italy, try some Sangiovese from Noceto 2007 ($14) made right here in the gold country of California.
For us, the main course is another non-traditional adventure in food and wine pairings. The table becomes quickly crowded with dishes ranging from braised wild pheasant to a whole smoked goose to pork of some kind, not mention a traditional roasted turkey. Wine on the table can be as diverse as the food. There might be white wine on the table including a Vinho Verde, Trajarinho from Portugal 2008 ($12) or a Riesling, Schmitges 2007 ($17) from Germany. Both have bold fruitiness to them, yet enough acid to stand up the food. One of my favorite value reds for this meal is the Rosso di Sant’Antimo from Piancornello 2007 ($15). This wine is basically a younger version of Brunello di Montalcino which can cost more than four times the price. One more red that might find its way to the table is a Dolcetto D’Alba, Munfrina ($17) from the Piedmont region of Italy.
Dessert at an Italian Tuscan Thanksgiving usually consists of some form of torta di zucca (pumpkin tart) however you might also find some torta di verdure, a semi – sweet vegetable tart made with chard, raisins and candied fruit. Wines on the table for dessert would include a Vietti Moscato d’Asti ($15) or the Elio Perrone Bigaro ($17) which is a combination of Moscato d’Asti and Brachetto.
All these wines can be found and Enoteca Della Santina in downtown Sonoma. Moreover, most of the dishes I mentioned can be found at right next door at Della Santina’s Trattoria where we are now celebrating our twentieth year of business in the Valley of the Moon. Remember, wine is only as good as the company it is shared with. Happy Thanksgiving and Buone Feste!
Robert Della Santina and Ron Kantor are co-owners of Enoteca Della Santina, 127 East Napa Street, 938 – 4200
Robert Della Santina is proprietor of Della Santina’s Trattoria, 133 East Napa Street, 935 – 0576.
