Baked Delicacies And Local Grains
By Seth Dolinsky
Every town has a baker, or at least should. Sonoma has a few, one of which is found exclusively at our local farmers markets, as well as at occasional events and “pop-ups”. Mike “The Bejkr” Zakowski has been baking in the Sonoma Valley for over 20 years. Many Sonoman’s frequent his stand in search of the perfect loaf, flatbread, cookie, brownie – endless grain-based delicacies. I was able to catch Mike between baking sessions to find out more. One notable aspect of Mikes products are his focus on ingredients – from ancient grains like Khorasan and Einkorn, many of which are milled locally, or by Mike himself, and in his use of local farm products – fruits, vegetables, herbs, nuts and more, and always organic. Recently, I was able to catch up with Mike to find out more.
Your product variety is amazing! How do you source your ingredients?
Mike: I am always inspired by what I see when I travel, and just things that come to mind, like a recent trip to Japan inspires me to use certain things, like I love black sesame, buckwheat, rice – which I used in a cookie – 50 percent brown rice, 50 percent wheat, black sesame and Okinawan brown sugar.
Also, with eating seasonally, you use what is available from our producers, like Paul’s Produce, Oak Hill Farm, Seven Moons Farm, Sunray Farm. I also use local olive oil, cheese from Vella, grains and organic ingredients from Central Milling in Petaluma.
What about local grains, are they out there?
They were. You look at the Bale Grist Mill in Napa and they were farming wheat and grains 150 years ago, but it’s not the best climate for that; dryer winters are ideal. We have done some small batches of Rye locally, and I do get some grains from Mendocino County. Full Belly Farm in Capay Valley grows some wheat, so it can be produced nearby. I have some Hourani wheat grown locally by Tara Firma farm, and have collaborated with Doug at the Mendocino Grain Project on some heirloom varieties as well.
And with you, it’s not just the ingredients, you also source many other items locally and from small businesses.
Mike: As much as possible. My aprons are made from a friend in L.A., my wood boxes I use at the market were made by a local cabinetmaker. There’s a lot of artisans around the Valley that produce things that I need for my business, so that’s great.
This sounds like a good way for all of us to run our business in general, creating strong local economies. Speaking of which, folks can get your baked goods at the Tuesday and Friday farmers market here in Sonoma.
Mike: Yes, Tuesday until early September and Friday year-round. Tuesday is a great city party event, where I have some breads and cookies, or brownies and flatbreads made in the wood-fired oven. On Friday I make pretzels and have more selection of breads. Both are great markets and Friday is a big one for grocery shoppers with so many local farms and producers.
Any special items this week, here on the verge of Summer?
Mike: For sure, carrot bread 3-ways with pumpkin seed, strawberry buckwheat scone, shokupan (Japanese milk bread) with Japanese purple sweet potato powder, also some buckwheat/brown rice/black sesame cookies, and a carrot-olive oil cake with fermented raisins.
Incredible, that all sounds epic, and healthy. Thank you, Mike, for being our town baker!
Seth Dolinsky is Lecturer of Sonoma Valley Grange, whose motto is: Healthy Farms, Healthy Food, Healthy Community
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