A river runs through it. Have you visited downtown Napa recently? If not, you wouldn’t recognize it. Although construction continues to give the downtown scene a facelift, it seems that restaurants are opening on a daily basis and there are new, upscale hotels here and there. The chic, cosmopolitan flavor that Napa seems to be striving for is the opposite of Sonoma’s charming and quaint small town ambience. I am so grateful for the best of both worlds.
The Napa newcomer that I have been most anxiously awaiting is Fish Story, located in the new Riverfront Complex. This restaurant is the latest from Bay Area restaurant empire, Lark Creek Restaurant Group, who very wisely hired local chef Stephen Barber to man the kitchen. I first fell in love with Barber’s food at his namesake Napa restaurant, BarbersQ, which he is strangely and sadly no longer associated with. He doesn’t employ trendy techniques, modern-molecular foams or infusions, but simply procures the finest ingredients and then prepares them with a light, almost magical hand. The ultimate example of this artistry has always been Barber’s seafood dishes, many executed with Southern flair. So it’s a happy coincidence that Fish Story’s focus is exclusively sustainable, seasonal seafood, all sourced in accordance with the Monterey Bay Aquarium’s Seafood Watch Program. The vibe here is downtown cool meets East Coast “fish house,” lobster tanks and all, with the river filling in for the ocean. Although, both coasts are lovingly represented on the extensive menu: a decadent, creamy Shrimp & Grits – Benton’s bacon! – to a perfectly crisp Fish and Chips, and the sure-to-be-popular North Beach Cioppino. Barber is particularly brilliant while working his magic with vegetables and I was ecstatic to see the imaginative selection of seasonal sides! Mmmm, roasted cauliflower with raisins and pine nuts, glazed oyster mushrooms and many more. I can’t wait for the next chapter in my Fish Story. Fish Story is located at 790 Main Street. For reservations or information call 251.5600 or see their website at fishstorynapa.com. Lunch and dinner now with brunch coming soon.
The most extraordinary newcomer to Napa’s downtown scene is the sprawling, posh Morimoto. The dining room is beautifully designed. Close your eyes, open them and you’d think you were in New York City, if it weren’t for the stunning Napa River views. The original Iron Chef, Masaharu Morimoto is the celebrity chef behind the flawless sushi – think über fresh, unique seafood offerings and stellar hand rolls – and the whimsical Japanese meets Wine Country menu. A nearly equal staff to customer ratio ensures prompt service, but is a bit unsettling. I couldn’t stop calculating the immense expense. The happening bar and lounge fills up nightly with black-clad hipsters. So much fun to have an urban, fashionable evening-out option…but you’ll probably only see me here for a serene, sake and omakase lunch – which will hopefully be offered soon. Morimoto is located at 610 Main Street. For reservations or information call 252.1600 or see their website at morimotonapa.com. Dinner only, lunch TBA.
Let them eat pie! Yours truly, along with Ken Brown, Sondra Bernstein and Chad Harris, of the Fremont Diner, will be judging an old fashioned, homemade pie-baking contest at this weekend’s Harvest Festival at Sonoma Garden Park! Seriously. I was asked to eat pie. Not that I need an excuse to enjoy pie, but having one makes it all that much sweeter. Taste, appearance and crust are important, with bonus points given for using local, seasonal and sustainable ingredients. Pies must be submitted by 12:30 p.m. and the gluttony, oh I mean judging, begins promptly after. The festival is the ideal way to wile away an autumn afternoon. Tractor rides, a hay fort, face painting, gourd decorating and a pumpkin patch will keep the kids occupied while adults can browse the harvest produce market, the arts and crafts and of course, enjoy the food offerings and cold beer. At 3 p.m., the very entertaining Arann Harris and the Farm Band will perform. Saturday, October 9 from 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. Admission is $5 and all proceeds benefit the Park. 19996 Seventh Street East. Visit sonomaecologycenter.org for more information.
On the Menu: James Hahn of our local, favorite Sunflower Caffe – oh, those lattes! – has just launched their hilariously named, but seriously fun Snobby Ass Wine Club. Hahn says that if anyone has ever called you a wine snob, this is the club for you. Every quarter, members will receive six bottles of wine that were declared winners among the thousands tasted at the Caffe’s wine bar. Get your friends to sign up and receive additional savings and every member will enjoy “crazy” discounts on any wine on their list. Their amusing descriptions are reason enough to sign up. “October’s selections are three ridiculously good reds, two whites that will blow your mind, and one remarkable rose.” See snobbyasswineclub.com for more information. • Sonoma, you no longer need to go through local sushi withdrawal symptoms. Ed Metcalf and his Shiso Sushi Catering are everywhere! To keep up with where his roving sushi bar might be any given week, check the website’s events section at winecountrysushi.com or even better, “like” Shiso on Facebook. • Mark your calendars for the inaugural Napa Sonoma Wine and Food Festival being held next Saturday at Cornerstone. The event hopes to celebrate the coming together of our two famous valleys for the first time in grandiose fashion. Wineries, chefs, local artisans, influential designers and industry insiders will collaborate to bring you the best in local food, wine and art in the amazing setting that is Cornerstone Gardens. Highlights of the festival include a Culinary Passport Adventure through the gardens, live music, a Culinary Pavilion with chef’s demonstrations and seminars, an Artisan Collective featuring fine art for show and sale, a Designer’s Pavilion with seminars and demonstrations on landscape and garden design, architecture, and more, and a Farmer’s Market Collective that will provide an opportunity to sample and purchase locally produced items. Whew! Saturday, October 16 from 11 a.m. until 4 p.m. at Cornerstone, 23570 Arnold Drive. For questions and event pricing contact the festival office at 805.688.1434 or see their website at nswandff.com.
Pan-Roasted Cauliflower with Pine Nuts and Raisins
Recipe by Paula Wolfert
2 tablespoons raisins (not golden)
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 head cauliflower, cut into florets (4 cups)
1 teaspoon sugar
2 cups tomatoes—drained, peeled, seeded and chopped
Pinch of crushed red pepper, preferably Marash
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons pine nuts
1 garlic clove, finely chopped
2 tablespoons chopped parsley
1 1/2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
Preheat the oven to 350°. In a small bowl, cover the raisins with water; let stand until softened, about 10 minutes. Drain. Meanwhile, in a 10- to 12-inch cazuela or ovenproof skillet, heat the oil. Add the cauliflower and sugar and cook over moderately low heat, stirring, until the cauliflower starts to soften, about 10 minutes. Raise the heat to moderate and cook until the cauliflower is lightly browned, about 5 minutes longer. Stir in the tomatoes and crushed red pepper, season with salt and black pepper and cook until the tomatoes have begun to soften, about 5 minutes. Add the raisins to the cauliflower, along with 1/4 cup hot water, the pine nuts and chopped garlic. Transfer the cazuela to the oven and bake the cauliflower for about 30 minutes, until it is very tender. Stir in the parsley and lemon juice and let stand at room temperature for 30 minutes. Serve the cauliflower warm.
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