Nov.?! I can hardly believe that the grape harvest is behind us, the leaves red and gold on the vines. The last of the Tuesday night farmer’s markets have come and gone and sadly, we’ve said goodbye to fresh tomatoes until next year. As our first significant rains remind us of the cold, grey days to come I say a little au revoir to picnics on the grass, stone fruit and cold white wine. Alas, you will be missed, but I will see you again in the spring. Truthfully, these farewells aren’t heartbreaking in the least. We have so many delicious reasons to love our Northern California winters! Say hello to olio nuovo. Fresh dungeness crab, how we have missed you so. Where have you been all summer, you beautiful chanterelle?
Olive season moves in
The olive harvest is amazingly around the corner and thankfully after last year’s rather dismal harvest, from what the growers are saying, this year should be a bountiful one! Not only is it exciting to enjoy our spectacular, local olio nuovo, there are an abundance of festivities, seminars and events surrounding the harvest. The Sonoma Valley Visitors Bureau organizes the Sonoma Valley Olive Festival, a three-month celebration of all things olive. Check online often as the events are posted at sonomavalley.com/olivefestival. If you have olives that you’d like to see milled into oil, there are several local options. The Olive Press hosts their Community Press Day on Sunday, Nov. 28 beginning at 10 a.m. and charges $.60 a pound. Even if you don’t have olives for the mill, come for the gathering, which sounds like fun. This year, enjoy complimentary, authentic Spanish Paella, tastes of their olio nuovo and wine, of course. The Olive Press is located at 24724 Arnold Drive. For more information, see their website at theolivepress.com. The spectacular McEvoy Ranch hosts two Community Milling Days, on Nov. 14 and Dec. 5 and charges $1 a pound. They mill the olives into a Tuscan and non-Tuscan blend. McEvoy Ranch is located in western Petaluma. Visit mcevoyranch.com for details, directions and to make the necessary reservations. Healdsburg’s Dry Creek Olive Company also holds two Community Milling Days. On Nov. 28 and Dec. 14, beginning at 9 a.m., bring your olive harvest to their facility and they will mill them for $.65 per pound. Club Oliva members are invited to linger for a wood-fired pizza party. Dry Creek Olive Company is located at 4791 Dry Creek Road in Healdsburg, drycreekolivecompany.com.
Crabs!
Nov. 15, the beginning of Northern California’s dungeness crab season, is easily one of the happiest days of my Sonoma year. I cannot think of a more cozy evening than covering the dining table in newspaper, popping a bottle of bubbly, melting a stick of butter and digging into a big dungeness crab. No side dishes are necessary for the exception of an oversized Castroville artichoke – why not something else to dip in the butter? – simply steamed with, preferably, a Meyer lemon. I always let the charming guys at Sonoma Market’s fish counter choose the perfect crab for me. Now, where’ my bib?
Got ‘shrooms?
One of the greatest joys of seasonal eating is that, typically, whatever is in season is more affordable than when out of season. Wild mushrooms are one of my more luxurious obsessions. Yes, right behind the bubbly. Although, while in season they can be downright affordable. While gazing longingly at the mushroom section at Sonoma Market this weekend, I did an exciting double take. There I saw the most ravishing pile of golden chanterelle and bright orange lobster mushrooms, priced at a meager $10 per pound! They usually run in the $20 per pound range. My mind began excitingly creating mushroom-based menus while I greedily filled my bag. A favorite Italian method of featuring one pristine ingredient is to prepare a simple pasta or rice dish and then pile that ingredient on top…a mushroom centerpiece. With that in mind, I grabbed a small bag of Italian farro – a type of nutritious, whole grain commonly prepared like risotto – and was on my way. That night it rained and rained. Our dinner of sauteed mushrooms over creamy farro was the perfect, cozy fall treat.
Farro Risotto with Chanterelle Mushrooms
Recipe by Kristin Viguerie
Serves 4
2 T. extra-virgin olive oil
1 small white onion, finely chopped
1 1/2 cups farro (10 ounces)
1/4 cup dry white wine
3 cups water
1 pound fresh chanterelle mushrooms
1/2 cup heavy cream
1/4 cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese
3 T. unsalted butter
1 T. fresh thyme, picked from their stems
Best quality salt and freshly ground pepper
In a large saucepan, heat the olive oil. Add the onion and cook over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 6 minutes. Add the farro and cook for 1 minute, stirring to coat it with the oil. Add the wine and cook, stirring until it is absorbed, about 2 minutes.
Add the water, 1/2 cup at a time and cook, stirring, until absorbed between additions. While farro is simmering, brush any debris from the mushrooms, trim only the very end of their stems and slice into large slices. Melt 1 tablespoon of the butter in a large skillet over high heat. When melted, add mushrooms and saute until golden and tender, stirring constantly, about 5-8 minutes. Add the fresh thyme and stir to combine. The farro is done when it is al dente – it will be a bit chewy – and suspended in the thick, creamy liquid, about 45 minutes total. Stir in the heavy cream, the cheese and butter and simmer until the risotto has thickened, about 5 minutes longer. Season with salt and pepper, top with mushroom mixture and serve.
Be First to Comment