On the Menu
One of my New Year’s predictions has come true! Sonoma will definitely have another sushi spot and, happily, it will be opened by Sonoma’s own favorite sushi chef, Ed Metcalf. Ed was the talented chef-owner of Shiso Sushi, the chic little Japanese eatery on Broadway now housing Lokal. Most currently Ed has been busy catering through his Wine Country Sushi company. The casual new restaurant will be open for both lunch and dinner and the opening date is set for April 1-ish. While the location is a bit of a secret, let me just say it doesn’t matter where it is, I’ll be there!
• Our favorite local eggs, from producer Nick Rupiper of Nix Chix, are now happily being ordered by one of the most influential restaurants in the country, culinary icon Chez Panisse. In addition, you can now find his eggs being served at the hot, trendy San Francisco eateries Bar Agricole and Boulette’s Larder. Congrats Nick! Find Nix Chix eggs at the Sonoma Garden Park’s Saturday morning “Harvest Market,” located on Seventh Street East.
• The Friday Farmer’s Market just keeps getting better and better. First, with the addition of Mike the Baker’s fabulous breads – and pretzels! – next, the arrival of the French Garden’s unique and lovely produce and finally with Straus Creamery’s sublime dairy offerings. This past Friday’s market welcomed Paul’s Produce. The Paul in Paul’s Produce is Paul Wirtz, the longtime Sonoma farmer who has been working with Oak Hill Farm since 2001. You’ll recognize the delightful face behind the table as Candi Edmondson, Paul’s partner. Paul’s greens are always exquisite and my broccolini was vegetable perfection. The Friday Farmer’s Market is held ay Depot Park from 9 a.m. until noon.
• Tomorrow, January 28, Rob Larman hosts another “La Poste Bistro Dinner” at the Wine Shack. Reservations can be made by calling 938.7218. Believe me when I tell you, you do not want to miss that Chocolate Mousse!
• The Sonoma Community Center is offering an enticing new series named the “Community Table.” To benefit the Center’s Arts and Education Programs the events will feature dinners, tastings and cooking demos in the Center’s new state of the art kitchen hosted by local chefs and other culinary connoisseurs. First up is a four-course dinner by Chef Molly Heyerly of Rocket Cafe and Catering on February 19, followed by an olive oil tasting with the Olive Press on February 26 and then a three-course dinner by the Red Grape on April 23. Reservations for all Community Table events are necessary and can be made by calling 938.4626, extension 1.
• Also at the Sonoma Community Center, is the amateur beer brewing competition, “Beer-Vana.” The Center will be accepting amateur home-brew submissions until Wednesday, March 2, which should be delivered to the SCC office. Winners will be announced during the Beer-Vana beer and food tasting party at the Center on March 12 beginning at 5 p.m. Complete entry rules and forms at sonomacommunitycenter.org.
• Restaurant Lokal just may be the ideal spot to watch the Super Bowl on February 6, with their huge screen, perfectly poured beers and sausages galore. Reserve your table by calling 938.7373. Don’t forget, Lokal also offers some festive weekly specials. Thursday’s Hungarian Fried Chicken sounds great and Jesus’ Yucatan Fish Tacos always sell out. Lokal is located at 522 Broadway.
• Celebrate your Valentine at Robledo Winery from February 1 thru February 14 with “Chocolate and Wine” pairings with truffles from Annette’s Chocolates in Napa. Also, receive 10 percent off your entire wine purchase through February 14. Visit robledofamilywinery.com for more information.
In the business
I got my first restaurant job the summer of my thirteenth year. I was hired to be in charge of producing the fresh pasta for this very busy, upscale Italian restaurant. Me, a thirteen year old. Well, twenty-four years and about twenty-four restaurants later, I can easily say that my life has been heavily influenced by “being in the business.” From that first, humble position, I went on to wait tables, train, prep, bartend, host and manage them, until I went completely insane and opened my own, along with my also insane chef-husband. Everyday I am reminded of how the restaurant business has influenced my daily life, especially in the kitchen. I’ve gleaned a zillion chef-inspired tips and easy little tricks for entertaining, everyday cooking and living easier in the kitchen.
Yes, Chef
Why spend a fortune on culinary school when I’ve got chef’s top-secret tricks right here, just for you my dear reader.
• When using a cutting board, always place a dish towel underneath it. This simple trick eliminates the pesky probability of the board sliding around on the counter while you’re chopping.
• Never, ever buy pre-ground black pepper, otherwise known as “pepper powder.” When cooking, it’s a pain to stand over a big bowl or hot pot grinding pepper endlessly. Designate an inexpensive coffee grinder as your pepper grinder and enjoy a small bowl full of perfect, fresh-ground pepper at your fingertips.
• You might not realize the cause, but standing at your kitchen counter for even as long as it takes to make a pot of soup or bowl of pasta, can leave you with an aching back. A simple rubber restaurant mat helps.
• The most common sense cooking tip I can share with you? Be sure to take your protein out of the refrigerator at least an hour or so before cooking it. A chilly, four pound chicken will surely take a great deal more time to cook than one at room temperature.
Garçon!
I learned quite a bit from my years in the front of the house, not just the fact that if you’re in a hurry – which you always are – eat over the trash can, it’s less messy.
• My most valued lesson was to always stay calm. No matter how “in the weeds” I truly was, I never let my tables see me sweat. Anxiety is contagious, so whether you are hosting a multi-course dinner party or merely whipping up dinner for two, just relax and remember…you’re meant to be having fun. Dinner with a stress case? Not fun.
• We live in Wine Country, so obviously, wine is important to most of our daily lives. You cannot enjoy your wine if you cannot get it open, correct? So why on earth do so many of us continue to struggle with archaic, inefficient wine openers? It’s should be obligatory that every wine drinking citizen possess a simple, affordable and easy to find waiter’s style wine key.
• Lastly, a piece of advice learned while standing at an eight-top in South Beach in ’95 that transcends all professions, cultures and societies. Always, no matter what, write it down! Always take notes. Because, you might not think so, but you’re going to forget it. From the gallon of milk on the grocery list to your best friend’s birthday or that song that your sister just loves…or in my case, the entire third course of that dreaded eight top – where Madonna was amongst the guests – that I thought I could remember. And couldn’t.
Gadget of the Week
Every chef’s favorite gadget is the Microplane. This indispensable kitchen grating implement was inspired by a popular woodworking tool. The blades are formed using a unique process that produces holes in the metal with sharper edges that slice, rather than tear or shred. With holes that allow the user to grate ingredients in both directions, saving time and effort, you’ll never grate lemon zest or parmesan the same way again.
Find a wonderful selection of Microplane graters in many sizes at the Sign of the Bear.
Local chefs and restauranteurs on what skills they take home
James Hahn, proprietor of the Sunflower Caffe: “Chef Curtis taught me the importance of Mirepoix, the French name for the combination of sauteed onions, carrots and celery. I keep it handy to build flavor in soups, sauces and when braising meats. It’s the universal vegetable mixture that contributes to so many great dishes.”
John Toulze, managing partner of the girl and the fig and Estate: “Masking tape! It’s simply the best way to keep things labeled and organized. It is cheap, it will stick to almost anything and can be made into any length desired. The tape easily pulls off without tape residue like many stickers and labels do.”
Nick Demarest, chef-Ooner of Harvest Moon Cafe: “I always have a sharp knife. Whether you buy stones and sharpen them yourself or use the knife sharpener guy at the farmer’s market, it is nice to have a sharp knife at home.”
Norman Owens, chef-owner of the Hot Box Grill: “Have fun! I feel privileged to be able to do something I love every day. I take that mentality home with me when I’m cooking for friends, family, or even myself. Whether you are cooking in a fire by the river, cooking at home or cooking for 500 people, kick some tunes and get into it!”
Manuel Azevedo, chef-owner of LaSalette: “I’m a big believer that to do good work you have to be clean and organized. One thing that I do at home to keep my work space tidy is to keep two small plastic containers at an arm’s length. One for trash and another for composting.”
Chris Jones, executive chef of the girl and the fig and Estate: “The concept of ‘Mise en Place,’ a place for everything and everything in its place. For example, having cut mirepoix, peppercorns, bay leaf, thyme, wine all ready beforehand to make a stock. This allows for the necessary organization & cleanliness needed to cook in an efficient, orderly fashion and allows you to cook in a fluid, uninterrupted motion.”
Meatballs with Tomato Jam
Recipe Inspired by Farmstead Restaurant, St. Helena
1/3 cup milk
2 slices of white sandwich bread, crusts removed and bread torn into pieces (1 cup)
1 1/4 pounds ground beef chuck
1 large egg, lightly beaten
1/4 cup freshly grated Parmesan
1 tablespoon chopped fresh parsley
1/2 tablespoon kosher salt
1 teaspoon chopped rosemary
1 teaspoon chopped oregano
1/2 teaspoon smoked sweet paprika
1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper
Extra-virgin olive oil, for brushing
Spiced Tomato Jam, recipe follows
In a small bowl, pour the milk over the bread and let stand until the milk is absorbed, about 10 minutes. In a large bowl, gently mix the soaked bread with the ground meat, egg, cheese, parsley, salt, rosemary, oregano, paprika and cayenne until thoroughly combined. Form the mixture into 1 1/2-inch meatballs. Preheat the broiler. Arrange the meatballs on a large rimmed baking sheet and brush them generously with olive oil. Broil about 4 inches from the heat for about 15 minutes, until nicely browned and firm. Transfer the meatballs to a serving platter and serve with the Spiced Tomato Jam.
Spiced Tomato Jam
2 1/2 pounds ripe tomatoes, peeled and coarsely chopped
1/2 navel orange, thinly sliced and seeded
1/2 lemon, thinly sliced and seeded
1 cup sugar
2 tablespoons cider vinegar
1 tablespoon ras el hanout, a Moroccan spice blend
1/2 tablespoon finely grated fresh ginger
Salt
In a large saucepan, combine the tomatoes and the orange and lemon slices with the sugar, cider vinegar, ras el hanout and ginger and bring to a boil. Simmer over moderate heat, stirring often, until thick and jam-like, about 45 minutes. Let cool and season with salt.
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