Restaurant perfection

It means something different for everyone, doesn’t it. Finding your own little piece of restaurant heaven is often like finding your soulmate. A harrowing, heart breaking exploration that for some of us will never come to fruition. For most of my adult life, I was resigned to the fact that, yes, I had thankfully found a soulmate in my chef-hubby, but just may never find my restaurant ideal. And then while in New York City, one fateful, extremely hungover morning, we stumbled into a teeny little spot in the East Village where we’d heard brunch was pretty fantastic. That pivotal day forever changed my restaurant relationships, from there on out I knew that quirky little restaurant was my one and only…the one in which all others would be compared. That restaurant was Prune.

The restaurant mastermind behind Prune is not some fancy New York restaurant group, but the unassuming, lovely, Gabrielle Hamilton. Ever heard of her? Probably not, because this itsy bitsy, unassuming storefront was meant to be a neighborhood joint where she could whip up some of her favorite meals for friends – quietly and without fanfare. But, the adoring crowds came and years later they continue to come…and come. Believe me when I tell you that it was quickly obvious to me that this was not a one-girl sort of place. On the many occasions that we’ve returned to Prune over the years, we’ve been forced to share the insanely small space with other traveling foodie pilgrims, Village hipsters and annoying socialites.

You’re probably screaming, “What makes this place so special?!” Oh, my hungry readers, how I wish we could all head over there right now for a plate of sardines and Triscuits and you could see for yourself. Prune is almost equal amounts of enchanting atmosphere as it is unique, and lovingly prepared food. The space is ridiculously small, resulting in a convivial, dinner party atmosphere. If you ever went to like, the coolest dinner party ever. Hamilton cooks for food people, without a speck of arrogance. It is the little things, the details and obvious thought that she displays in each dish. It is like she is making each dish for herself. She simply knows that those marrow bones need that vinegary kick in the herb salad to cut the richness, that a Sunday brunch Bloody Mary demands a small beer back, that juice in a cocktail just tastes better when it’s squeezed right then, and that liquor bars need snacks. The thing I love about Prune the most? There is just no other place like it. The menu is crafted with imagination and whimsy – think rabbit, sweetbreads, whole fish, monk fish liver and chicken hearts! – and executed in a way that is just plain thoughtful and tastes downright delicious.

Not only is Gabrielle Hamilton an amazing, talented chef and restauranteur, but she also happens to be a truly gifted writer. I have just about died from envy after reading articles that she has had published in a handful of magazines. Amazing, lavishly written stuff. I have been counting the days for her first book to debut this month…mine should arrive today! “Blood, Bones & Butter: The Inadvertent Education of a Reluctant Chef” promises to be exactly the sort of memoir you’d expect from Hamilton. I hear it’s “delectable and dripping with flavor” and shows “her slow simmering passion for cooking.” I am beyond excited that she will be in the Bay Area promoting the book this month. The wonderful Corte Madera book seller, Book Passage hosts a great series of events called Cooks with Books where chef/authors are paired with a restaurant for a lecture and festive meal. On Thursday, March 10, Ms. Hamilton will be at the Left Bank in Larkspur for dinner and a book signing. You know I wouldn’t miss it for the world. Who wants to go with me? It isn’t sardines and Triscuits, but it should still be fun! Information about Cooks with Books can be found at bookpassage.com, by calling 415.927.0960 or feel free to email me at kristinviguerie@mac.com. Prune’s website is prunerestaurant.com.

On the Menu

Thursday, March 3, Sonoma Homecare owner, Genevieve Ladha, hosts a workshop entitled, “Food After 50.” The morning will be spent talking about the best, vibrant colored foods that help support a healthy lifestyle. Attendees will receive recipes and have the opportunity to sample the foods prepared. The workshop will be held in the Rotary Kitchen from 11 a.m. until 1 p.m. at the Sonoma Community Center at 276 East Napa Street. For more information contact Genevieve at 938.7371 or genevieve@sonomahomecare.com.

• Saturday, March 5, beginning at noon, Meadowcroft Wines throws their annual Mardi Gras Party. The afternoon is sure to be festive, starting with second line parade, wine, authentic Cajun fare and the Saint Gabriel’s Celestial Brass Band playing lively New Orleans style music. Our very own Council Member, Ken Brown, has been crowned the King of the celebration. Tickets are $35 in advance and $40 at the door. For all the details visit meadowcroftfamilyofwines.com. The tasting room is located at Cornerstone Gardens, 23574 Arnold Drive, 934.4090.

• My kind of school has to be Lokal’s “Bier School.” On Saturday, March 5, from 2 p.m. until 4 p.m. get “schooled” by Lokal’s in-house beer specialist. Learn about – and taste – all of their draft beers paired with special bites from the kitchen. Your $40 gets you all the above, plus a .5 liter of your favorite. Reserve your spot by calling 938.7373. Lokal is located at 522 Broadway.

• Also this weekend, my Plaza shop, Junipero & Co., is having a huge, two day “Making Room for New Goodies Sale.” You’ll find amazing, once a year discounts on local olive oil, cookbooks, gourmet foods and other foodie finds! 115 East Napa Street, 939.9065.

• “Savor Sonoma Valley” tickets are now on sale. In it’s twenty-first year, the wonderful, two-day event is organized by the Heart of Sonoma Valley Association and is a truly special weekend of delicious foods paired with the amazing variety of wines produced in our Valley. Meet winemakers, mingle with wine lovers in caves and on crush pads, peruse art from local artists while listening to live music, while touring wineries and vineyards. Admission is $55 per person, in advance, for a Weekend Pass, which includes a souvenir wine glass and access to event tastings at all participating wineries. Tickets and detailed information may be obtained online at heartofsonomavalley.com or by calling 866.794.9463.

• Join expert beekeeper Randy Sue Collins at the Sonoma Garden Park next Saturday, March 12, for her, “Organic Beekeeping 101 Workshop.” Participants will be introduced to natural beekeeping and it’s essential equipment, and walk away with an understanding of honeybees and the confidence to start their own hives. The workshop fee is $10 for members of the Sonoma Ecology Center, $15 for non-members. Proceeds benefit the Sonoma Garden Park, an educational community farm, garden, and park, managed by the Sonoma Ecology Center and located on Seventh Street East. For more information on Randy Sue, visit her site at organicbeekeeping101.com. To register for the workshop, call 996.0712 ext. 110 or email sandi@sonomaecologycenter.org. Please note that reservations are required by Friday, March 11.

• A delicious and interesting event is coming up to the Congregation Shir Shalom on March 20. From 2 p.m. until 4 p.m. Chef Tina Wasserman, acclaimed food writer and Jewish culinary historian, will be presenting a tasting and lecture and will be signing her new book, Entrée to Judaism: A Culinary Exploration of the Jewish Diaspora. For details and to register contact Bonnie Lasky at bglasky@att.net or by calling 796.1778. Burlingame Hall, 252 West Spain Street.

• In celebration of Girlfriend’s Getaway Month, La Casa Restaurant’s bar manager, Frank, invites all the ladies to relax and enjoy $5 margaritas throughout the month of March! To see all the Sonoma Girlfriends Getaway dining, lodging, and shopping specials, go to sonomavalley.com/girlfriends. La Casa is located on the Plaza at 121 East Spain Street, 996.3406.

This just in

It was but a typical, rather boring Tuesday, checking emails and finishing up dreadful paperwork when, what arrived with a joyful – ping! – to my inbox?  A high tech call to enjoy a very low tech product, “Fresh, hot from the oven loaves!  Come and get them now!” from our trusty, local artisan Mike {the bejkr}.  Nothing could have gotten me into that car more quickly.  His next Tuesday bake session might be happening this week! Email Mike the Baker at mzsnail@gmail.com to get your name on the list for updates on when he’s got hot bread available to pick up from his little Broadway bakeshop.      

The Fremont Diner is officially now serving up beer and wine!!

• LaSalette, my favorite, go-to spot for cozy romance and sparkling seafood got a very nice mention on Twitter from the folks over at the Michelen Guides. Dare I predict stars in their future?

• The Community Café opened for business Monday morning with a lively breakfast service. The space, which previously housed a somewhat gloomy Mondo, now sports a cheery coat of buttery yellow paint, comfy couches to kick back with free WiFi and a latte. The menu includes Margie’s own, homemade pastries and a fresh selection of breakfast and lunch offerings. Check out their website for the menu and other details at communitycafesonoma.com. Community Cafe, 875 West Napa Street, 938.7779 .

• Slow Food Sonoma Valley’s new president, Kathleen Leonard, is continuing her enthusiastic campaign for invigorating our little chapter. Look forward to more festive Slow Food sponsored gatherings and events in the coming months. If you’re interested in joining in on all the Slow Food fun, join the group’s Facebook page or email leaders@slowfoodsonomavalley.com.

Brown Butter Pasta

Recipe by Gabrielle Hamilton
Serves 4

Kosher salt, to taste
8 oz. fresh pasta, such as fettuccine or tagliatelle
1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter
3⁄4 cup pine nuts
4 eggs
Freshly ground black pepper, to taste
Freshly grated Parmesan. Grated nutmeg, to taste

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil and add pasta; cook, stirring occasionally, until al dente, about 4 minutes. Set a strainer over a bowl; drain pasta, reserving 1⁄2 cup pasta cooking water, and set aside. Melt butter in a 12” skillet over medium heat. Add pine nuts and cook, stirring often, until golden brown, about 10 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer pine nuts to a bowl. Working in two batches, crack eggs into butter and cook, spooning butter over yolks, until whites are set but yolks are still runny, about 3 minutes. Transfer eggs to a plate and keep warm. Add pasta and half the pine nuts to skillet and toss until hot. Stir in some of the reserved pasta water to create a sauce, and season with salt and pepper. To serve, divide pasta between 4 serving plates and top each serving with a fried egg. Sprinkle with remaining pine nuts, Parmesan, and nutmeg.