What ever happened to the pickle plate?
Crudite? What ever happened to crudite? Or, the pickle plate? I have the dearest memory of dining out at – what I thought at the time – was the swankiest restaurant with my grandfather. It was one of those family owned continental places in the eighties with a slant towards steak. The au poive N.Y. strip was truly delicious as was the mud pie, but what I most remember about the place was the pickle plate. A little, cheap silver plate that seemed completely fancy to my young eyes, rested in a slightly larger dish of crushed ice.
The whole thing was packed to overflowing with spears of cleaned carrots, peppery radishes, too-cold cherry tomatoes, celery sticks and even a generous sliver or two of jalapeno. Gargantuan black olives from the can were my absolute favorite! Oh boy, did us kids love the pickle plate.
My grandparents were so inspired by the pickle plate, and the grandkids’ love for it, that they kept a mini pickle plate in their fridge at all times. The memories of grandma biting into whole slices of raw jalapeno always amazed and delighted us. I cannot remember when I first realized the sad disappearance of crudite on restaurant menus, but it coincided with the weighty arrival of extremely rich restaurant hors d’oeuvres such as creamy spinach-artichoke dip, popcorn fried shrimp and the ubiquitous chicken wing.
Well, y’all can imagine my pleasant surprise on recent excursions to a handful of Sonoma spots where some form of the good old-fashioned crudite is currently being served. Murphy’s Irish Pub, whose fresh, seasonal menu choices never disappoint, is offering a delightful little appetizer plate of fresh summer vegetable skewers. The locally sourced vegetables include cherry tomatoes, lemon cucumber and Easter egg radishes all meant to be dipped in a vibrant, homemade basil Green Goddess dip. Fresh, heirloom radishes from their own gardens at the girl and the fig are gorgeous and served with a decadent anchovy-studded butter and grey sea salt. This is truly one of the most delicious ways a person could possibly enjoy a radish. A true Southern pickle plate can thankfully be found at the Fremont Diner. A comforting dish of perfect pimento cheese spread – the iconic concoction of sharp cheddar, jarred peppers and mayonnaise – is paired with celery spears, little sour pickles and country bread. A fun dish to share before a meal or hoard as lunch all on it’s own. I say let’s bring back the pickle plate!
What’s Cookin’ Sonoma?
The Hot Box Grill continues to wow this die hard foodie with their delish lunch offerings. New items include their “B.L.A.S.T.A.,” a sandwich of which dreams are made. Basque bread loaded with crispy bacon, little gem lettuces from Paul’s Produce, heirloom tomatoes – which will soon come from the restaurant’s own garden – and a fried egg from Stone Edge Farm. The whole beautiful mess is topped with a slice of Gruyere cheese, avocado, local arugula and plenty of mayo. Serious yumminess.
Sadly, only available periodically, is their outrageous “Lobster Roll.” A full one-and-a-half pounds of fresh Maine lobster meat is combined with lemon and mayo and piled high onto a soft bun. A good idea? Follow the restaurant on Facebook to keep up with all of their scrumptious specials. hotboxgrill.com
• Not that anyone should ever require yet another great reason to dine at the Harvest Moon Cafe, but they are now baking their own bread. Kudos to Nick and Jen for tackling a not-so-easy task and totally excelling! The bread is rustic and gorgeous, a beautiful reminder of the team’s thoughtful dedication to providing Sonoma and our visitors with the most passionate dedication to procuring only the best ingredients. harvestmoonsonoma.com.
• In recent days, I have heard quiet mumblings that Cafe la Haye just may be contemplating Sunday dinners? Because I tend to dine out on “off” evenings, I couldn’t imagine better news. I have truly been craving a Cafe la Haye quail dinner almost to the point of complete and utter obsession. While I am keeping my fingers crossed, soon us Sonomans just may have two delectable dining options from the consummate host Saul Gropman. He’s penciled in as the chosen restaurateur at Sarah and Darius Anderson’s upscale boutique hotel slated to open next year just west of the Plaza on Napa Street. More deliciousness to come, guaranteed! cafelahaye.com
On The Menu
• Tonight’s Rive Gauche Dining Club is “Aloha Dinner and Music” with Tommy Thompson and Ken Emerson. The meal is inspired by the Pacific Islands, consisting of Lomi Lomi salmon, a Hawaiian green papaya salad, banana bread, coconut chicken, mango sorbet and more for a mere $35, plus gratuity. Wednesday, August 3, beginning at 7 p.m. Call 996.9453 for reservations.
• This Saturday, August 6, from 1 p.m. to 3 p.m. Sheana Davis hosts a “Home Cheesemaking Class” at the Sonoma Valley Inn. Attendees will learn how to make creme fraiche, fromage blanc, chevre and paneer. You’ll also enjoy an artisan cheese plate with a glass of Sonoma County wine or beer. Cost is $45 per person and you can make reservations by calling 935.7960. For more information, visit sheanadavis.com.
• Don’t forget that each Saturday morning, the Sonoma Community Center hosts a “Saturday Market.” From 9 a.m. until 1 p.m. visitors to the market can pick-up a lovely selection of local produce, organic prepared foods – including Mike [the bejkr]’s scrumptious flatbreads – and unique artwork. For more information visit sonomacommunitycenter.org.
• On Saturday, August 13, from 3 p.m. to 7 p.m. one of Sonoma’s favorite little farms is hosting a “Farm Open House.” Enjoy refreshing beverages and yummy, garden-inspired snacks from the garden while meeting the farmers and enjoying the farm. Everyone is welcome!
• Also on Saturday, August 13, friends of the Ecology Center and 18 Reasons are invited to a “Full Moon Barn Dance” held in the atmospheric barn of a local ranch with real square dancing, games for the kids, live music and delicious food from Mike [the bejkr] and Bi-Rite Market. Local beer and wine will be courtesy of area producers, with homemade sodas from SodaCraft. The event is being hosted by the Sonoma Ecology Center, in conjunction with local realtor HWY 12 Properties and benefits 18 Reasons’ youth programs and the Ecology Center’s Enviro-Leaders Internship Program. 18 Reasons is an organization founded by the owners, and local Sonoma residents, of the fabulous food market in San Francisco, Bi-Rite Market. Camping on the ranch is optional, but sounds like fun! Visit brownpapertickets.com/event/183623 for more information.
Pimento Cheese
Makes 3 cups
If you really want to make this pimento cheese the Southern way, and you happen to own a hand-crank meat grinder, run the two cheeses once through the fine blade of the grinder into a mixing bowl. Mash the pimentos with a heavy fork on a plate until they break up into tiny pieces and be sure to use homemade mayonnaise or Hellmann’s (a.k.a. Best Foods) as a true Southerner would.
1/2 lb extra-sharp Vermont white Cheddar
1/2 lb extra-sharp aged New York (orange) Cheddar
1 (7-oz) jar pimentos, drained and finely chopped
1/2 tsp. black pepper
cayenne to taste
2/3 cup mayonnaise
Finely grate (or grind) cheeses into a large bowl. Stir in pimentos, black pepper, cayenne, and salt to taste with a fork. Then stir in mayonnaise, mashing mixture with fork until relatively smooth. (It should be flecked with small pieces of pimento.) Scrape spread into a crock or jar and chill, covered, at least 2 hours to allow flavors to develop.
Serve pimento cheese with crackers or use as a filling for finger sandwiches.
Kristin Viguerie is one of Sonoma’s most passionate, food obsessed residents. In this weekly column, she covers all the delicious happenings, foodie events and restaurants in Sonoma, the rest of Wine Country and beyond. Find her blogging daily as the Cook (thecardiganandcook.com) or via email at foodandwine@sonomasun.com.
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