Before I even begin to write this, I know what you’re going to say… duck again?! I can’t help it!
Y’all know that when there is duck, or quail, on a restaurant’s menu, I simply cannot resist ordering it. I was thrilled to have the opportunity this week to get back into one of my favorite Sonoma eateries, the Hot Box Grill, and even more delighted when I saw duck leg confit as an entrée option. Oh boy, I don’t think that there are enough words in my vocabulary to describe just how yummy this duck was.
I could immediately tell that the duck was from Sonoma’s own fabulous duck farm and producer of everything wonderfully ducky, Sonoma Artisan Foie Gras. It was huge. It was meaty. It was absolutely, perfectly fatty. It was heavenly. The kitchen had obviously taken great care to ensure that the skin was blisteringly crunchy, that it practically shattered.
My ideal accompaniment with game bird of any kind is a little something sweet and the gorgeous, fresh pluot gastrique on the plate was a sublime, not to mention inspired, pairing. The decadent leg was perched on top of a tasty pancake of shredded zucchini and potato that happily caught all the duck juices, while a pile of crisp frisée added a lovely, fresh crunch.
Yes, the duck was certainly a highlight, but our entire dinner was absolutely memorable. An appetizer of little lamb meatballs was insanely tasty. I couldn’t think of a sauce more delightful than the salsa verde, a super bright concoction of parsley, garlic and olive oil, which pooled the plate and commingled nicely with a tangy tzatziki and salty Kalamata olives. A salad of heirloom tomatoes and a platter of charred Shisito peppers were both precisely the epitome of summer in Sonoma.
Finding beautiful fish locally is sometimes tricky, but a piece of steelhead trout paired with bacon-studded local green beans and fabulously creamy mashed potatoes was not only perfectly cooked, but was honestly to-die-for. My only regret of the evening is that I didn’t have room for one of Addie’s killer homemade desserts. The Hot Box Grill is located at 18350 Sonoma Highway and is open for lunch Thursday thru Sunday from 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. and dinner everyday except Monday beginning at 5:30 p.m. Call 939.8383 to make reservations.
What’s cookin’ Sonoma?
Rumors are that the preliminary plans are slowly taking shape surrounding Darius and Sarah Anderson’s new boutique hotel, restaurant and retail space on the site that currently houses Chateau Sonoma. And, although this project is a long, long way from becoming a reality, I am sure I am not the only one absolutely enraptured with the thought of our sweet little town having another world-class dining establishment thanks to our very own congenial restaurateur, Saul Gropman. Fingers crossed for deliciousness… and for the projects swift completion!
There is no finer spot to while away an afternoon than at the Sunflower Caffé, particularly during their daily Happy Hour. Between 4 p.m. and 6 p.m. lucky patrons can imbibe in an ever-changing, fun and yummy selection of $2 beers and $4 glasses of wine. The light during that time of day is golden and soft and the cheerful yellow awning provides plenty of shade when lingering on the atmospheric back garden patio or at the festive wine bar. I cannot tell you where else in Wine Country you can find a more delicious, affordable (dare I say it, downright cheap!) glass of wine, poured generously, in proper, thin glassware and served happily by a cheerful, accommodating staff. Visit sonomasunflower.com for more information.
The cool folks over at HelloCello, local producers of Limoncello di Sonoma has teamed up with the cool folks over at the girl and the fig to create a new liqueur that truly channels the unique, seasonal spirit of Sonoma. Working with Sondra Bernstein, the group created FigCello di Sonoma, a local black mission fig-infused brandy. Initially only available at Bernstein’s restaurants, particularly in the popular “Fig Kiss” cocktail, the liqueur is now available in Sonoma and Napa restaurants and markets.
On The Menu
It’s the last Friday of the month, so Aug. 26 must be “Food Truck Friday” at the Sebastiani Winery. Beginning at 5 p.m. the festive event offers delicious foods from area food truck vendors, Sebastiani wines for purchase, live music and a lovely outdoor, wine country setting.
• This Saturday, Aug. 27, from 4 p.m. to 6 p.m. you’ll find another opportunity to mingle with Benjamin Flajnik, the local lad turned celebrity after appearing on the reality show, the Bachlorette. Shiso Sushi and Grill is hosting a “Bachlorette Party” on their lovely new patio featuring Flajnik and his partners in Evolve Winery, Mike Benziger and Danny Faye. Guests will enjoy a tasting of the trio’s wines paired with bites prepared with ingredients from the restaurant’s garden. Reservations are required and are extremely limited. Call 933.9331.
• Alsina Station Grill’s second “Tango and Milonga Night” is Sunday, September 11. Beginning at 5:30 p.m., the festive Argentinian restaurant at Cornerstone is hosting Tango band, Trio Garufa. The evening sounds like a fabulous opportunity to sit beneath the olive trees, dig into a beautiful, wood-grilled, all-natural steak, while sipping some wonderful Argentinian wines and either watching – or taking part – in the open Tango. Call Alsina at 933.4422 to make reservations. Visit alsinagrill.com or triogarufa.com for more information.
• Anyone interested in sustainable food, gardening or good eating shouldn’t miss is the National Heirloom Exposition, being held at the Sonoma County Fairgrounds September 13-15. Dubbed the “World’s Fair” of the heirloom industry, this not-for-profit event will feature a massive display of heirloom produce, more than two hundred vendors, nationally recognized speakers, and will help fund local back to school gardens and food programs. Admission is $10. More information visit theheirloomexpo.com.
• Get cracking and make your reservations for Robledo Family Winery’s popular “Lobster Feed” on Saturday, September 17 from 6 p.m. to 9 p.m. The bountiful feast includes Maine lobster, prawns, artichokes and the works on their outdoor patio. You’ll enjoy our beautiful vineyard views, live music, award winning wines and wine specials. Seats are $95, $85 for wine club members, and are available by contacting Nadine at 939.6903 or nadine@robledofamilywinery.com.
Black Pepper Roasted Duck Breast with Grilled Plums
Serves 4 as a main course
4 12-to 14-ounce boneless duck breasts, trimmed of excess fat (preferably from Sonoma)
4 tsp. chopped fresh thyme, divided
2 tsp. freshly ground black pepper, divided
1 1/2 teaspoons salt, divided
6 firm but ripe Santa Rosa plums or other purple plums, halved, pitted
1 T. extra-virgin olive oil
1/2 tsp. sugar
Using sharp knife, score skin of duck breasts in crisscross pattern (cut skin only; do not cut through meat), spacing cuts 1 inch apart. Sprinkle duck breasts on both sides with 1 teaspoon thyme, 1 teaspoon pepper, and 1 teaspoon salt. Cover and chill.
Prepare grill, preheating it to medium-high. Toss plum halves, olive oil, sugar, 1 teaspoon thyme, remaining 1 teaspoon pepper, and 1/2 teaspoon salt in medium bowl. Grill plum halves, cut side down, until grill marks appear and plums begin to soften, about 4 minutes. Turn plums over and grill, skin side down, until skin begins to soften but plums still retain their shape, about 4 minutes.
Transfer plums to a bowl. Cover with foil and let stand while cooking duck. Heat 2 large skillets over medium-high heat. Add 2 duck breasts, skin side down, to each skillet. Cook until skin is crisp and golden, about 7 minutes. Turn duck breasts over and cook to desired doneness, about 8 minutes longer for medium-rare. Remove from heat and let duck rest 5 minutes.
Thinly slice each duck crosswise. Place 2 plum halves alongside each serving. Drizzle any plum juices from bowl over. Sprinkle with 2 teaspoons thyme and serve immediately.
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