Originally, this column was going to be a simple list consisting of my favorite spots locally to snuggle up with yummy food and my sweetie on Valentine’s Day. I was going to share with you how romantic it is to cuddle in front of the fireplace at ESTATE with a cold glass of Prosecco and some nibbles, or how fabulous it is to hunker down with a few fancy hors d’oeuvres in a sunny spot out at the sexy new Ram’s Gate Winery, or even how delicious it is to linger over dinner in front of the wood-burning oven at LaSalette. And then…I walked into the Kenwood Inn and Spa. And, fell in love. Sigh. I immediately began to pen a whole column, a love letter if you will, to this idyllic place. Oh, Kenwood Inn, how do I love thee? Let me count the ways…
I pulled into the inn and right into another century. The property is all stone walls and creeping vines, an ancient Italian villa here in California Wine Country. My tires rumbled over the drive lined with uneven, old bricks. Oh, don’t you just adore old bricks? Stepping into the cozy lobby, serenity settled over me like a hug. The lights are perfectly soft and glowing, the quiet crackling of a fireplace, a thoughtful reception this chilly winter morning. A ridiculously atmospheric center courtyard, lined with fragrant trees heavy with ripe citrus and avocado, lead to a rustic open kitchen – think: Italian grandmother – and charming dining room. Intimate spots to while away an evening or to take your morning café are scattered here and there, possibly the most coveted in front of, yet another, roaring fireplace. And the rooms. Oh boy, the rooms! Without a doubt, there could not possibly be a spot that would be more heavenly to spend a night, not to mention a Valentine’s Day getaway. Each room is sans televisions – believe me, you shouldn’t want one! – crisp down comforters piled at least a mile high on beds fit for a queen, and oversized soaking tubs made for two. Each gorgeous, sumptuous room simply screams romance.
Guests might be tempted to barricade themselves in their rooms. I could easily tuck beneath those million thread count sheets never to be seen again, if it weren’t for Chef Snook’s gorgeous food tempting me from the kitchen below. Hired just six short weeks ago, the young, über talented chef is on a mission. Snook trained here and abroad in many prestigious kitchens, including three years under Chef Gordon Ramsey in New York City. It’s obvious that the English-born, classically French-trained chef is excited to be working with Northern California’s spectacular artisans, but I could tell he is particularly thrilled to have access to the bounty from the Inn’s culinary gardens. He excitedly pointed out where, come spring, a patch of strawberries will grow! And over there, artichokes! And lettuces! And not only one, but four types of citrus! He happily reported that in the coming season he hopes the gardens will supply the majority of produce he’ll use. Guests with spa appointments and those staying in the inn have the fortunate opportunity to dine in this magical place and there could not be a more delicious time to do so. During the month of February, Snook is offering a prix fixe “Aphrodisiac Menu,” which consists of four amazing, love-inducing courses for $95. I would seriously consider checking-in for the cold poached oysters with fennel panna cotta alone. A second course of house-made pasta left me swooning. Chewy noodles bobbed under a luxurious broth, rich with Dungeness crab and fresh Santa Barbara sea urchin. The only way this property could have gotten more sublime was with the hiring of Chef Steven Snook.
Just in case one extraordinarily talented chef weren’t enough, the genius behind the Kenwood Inn hired two. CIA-trained Pastry Chef Khambay Khamsyvoravong is inspired by classic Italian desserts, but utilizes modern techniques, local produce and artisan products. Her “Ménage à Trois” is a spectacular trio. This beautifully plated dessert consists of a subtle saffron-white chocolate cream sandwiched between dainty dark chocolate crisps and – my favorite addition – a scattering of balsamic-roasted strawberries. Two yeasty beignets doused in sparkling sugar are meant to be dunked in a petite pot of intense dark chocolate spiked with the somewhat naughty addition of a throat-tingling cayenne pepper, and if that weren’t enough, a miniature tiramisu is finished with a fun shot of espresso foam. Khambay’s desserts are stunning and certainly shouldn’t be missed and there’s no excuse since she also happens to be the Executive Chef at the Inn’s HKG Tasting Room in downtown Glen Ellen. It’s here that she creates a beautiful selection of small bites, savory and sweet, served alongside the winery’s exceptional Russian River wines. I absolutely adored a crisp 2010 Chardonnay, bright with tropical, floral aromas and paired with a soft goat cheese, red beet foam and the clever addition of a sprinkling of toasted hazelnuts. Next time you’re dining in Glen Ellen, promise me you’ll pop over to the HKG Tasting Room for a post-dinner sip and Khambay’s perfect little banana cream pie for dessert!
The folks behind the Kenwood Inn simply get it. They’ve managed to create, not only a comfortable place to lay your head, to rest and refuel after a day of touring the Wine Country, but an altogether unforgettable experience from the minute you check-in. Tiny details couldn’t be more appreciated. The lovely, toasty wine bar is the quintessential spot to spend a long winter evening and is exceptionally well stocked with sensational wines, pretty glassware and comfy seating. I almost died and went to heaven when stepping into the smallish, but beautifully appointed spa. Here, I could have disappeared for hours, a lazy afternoon on the plush couch, a small glass of gratis port in-hand. A calming hush enveloped my entire being. I yearned to return and sink beneath the warm, slippery, saline waters of the bubbling hot tub. Housed in a thick, stone walled outbuilding, with steaming water cascading from the ceiling, a more enchanting setting could not exist. Maybe I will return here with my Valentine, solely to sit in that hot water, on a frigid, damp Sonoma winter day, the “do not disturb” sign hanging from the thoughtful hook provided. A deep bowl of Chef Steven’s house-made noodles in front of a crackling fire…the only thing able to pry me from that heavenly spot.
Visit the Kenwood Inn and Spa’s website for details at kenwoodinn.com or call 800.353.6966 for more information regarding discounted winter rates, February’s “Aphrodisiac Menu,” or for more information regarding Chef Snook or dining at the Inn. The Inn’s HKG Tasting Room is located in downtown Glen Ellen. Call 938.7622 or visit hopkilnwinery.com for more information.
On The Menu
Visit the Big 3 Diner, where every Monday evening during the months of February and March, 10 percent of diners’ total bill will be donated to the Sonoma Valley High School’s Agriculture Department. What a wonderful way to enjoy some delicious food while supporting an extremely worthy local cause! Simply mention the SVHS Ag Department to your server when dining. For more information, call 938.9000 or visit fairmont.com/sonoma.
• McEvoy Ranch, the spectacular olive farm outside of Petaluma, is offering two olive related workshops presented by Samantha Dorsey, McEvoy’s Nursery and Vineyard Manager. On Saturday, February 25, from 9 a.m. until noon, is an “Olive Orchard Pruning Workshop.” This indoor lecture covers a variety of pruning topics, followed by an outdoor, hands-on pruning demonstration. On Saturday, March 17, from 9 a.m. until noon, is an “Olive Orchard Management Workshop.” This indoor lecture is most applicable to growers who do so for olive oil production. More details and information for registration can be found at mcevoyranch.com or by calling 707-769-4138. Pre-registration is required.
• This Tuesday, February 14, join the Community Café for a “Valentine’s Day Dinner with David Noyes.” Winemaker David Noyes will be on hand for this romantic, four-course dinner paired with his wines. The menu sounds lovely and includes crab bisque, asparagus-cheese soufflé, salmon, and artisan cheeses. The price is only $49.95, plus tax and gratuity. Reservations are required and can be made by calling 938.7779.
• Join Annie Simmons and Ramekins for a demonstration cooking class entitled “A Fun and Festive Oscar Party.” Students will learn to prepare a glamorous menu of dishes perfect for hosting an amazing Oscar party, from a special cocktail, to fancy finger foods, and even something sweet. The class is from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. on Sunday, February 26, and costs $90. Call Ramekins to reserve your spot at 933.0450.
Fennel Panna Cotta, Cold Poached Fanny Bay Oysters, Cucumber Gêlée
Recipe by Steven Snook,
Kenwood Inn and Spa
For the Fennel Panna Cotta:
1.5 cups heavy cream
Half cup Mascarpone
1 Fennel bulb
2 sheets bronze gelatin (available at grocery stores. Powdered gelatin may be used, 1 leaf of gelatin =1 teaspoon of powdered)
Pernod (anise liquor)
Salt and Pepper
Juice of half a lemon
Start by placing the leaf gelatin into cold water and allow it to bloom, once soft set to one side. Put heavy cream and mascarpone and put into a heavy-based pan and bring the mix to a boil. Season lightly with salt and pepper, remove from the heat and allow to slightly cool. Cut fennel bulb in half, reserve one half and any nice green sprigs for garnish. Cut the other half into small pieces and add to the warm cream and using a blender puree the mixture until smooth. Pass through a strainer, then add the soft gelatin and whisk until incorporated. Season to taste and finish with a little lemon juice and Pernod. Dice the remaining fennel into a very small dice and chop the sprigs finely and divide into four piles and put the mix into the bottom of the pot you are serving in, pour over the panna cotta mix equally between the four pots and put into the fridge to set.
For the oysters:
8 fresh Fanny Bay (or other local) oysters
Shuck open the oysters and keeping all the juice, place into a small sauce pan and gently heat until you can see the oyster plumping and firming. Flip the oyster and turn off the heat and allow to cool, remove the oysters from the pan and place in the fridge to cool. Keep the juice for the cucumber gêlée.
For the cucumber gêlée:
1 cucumber
Salt and pepper
Fresh lemon juice
Oyster liquid
2 Bronze leaf gelatin
Start by placing the leaf gelatin into cold water and allow it to bloom, once soft set to one side. Very roughly cut the whole cucumber into pieces and put into a food processor and blend until smooth then pass the liquid through a cloth and disregard the pulp that is left, take a small amount of the liquid and warm in a pan and add the gelatin and whisk until all dissolved. Pour the warm mix back in with the cold and add the oyster liquid, whisk until all is mixed together, season the liquid with salt and pepper and a little lemon juice to taste. (should resemble sweet sea water with a light cucumber after taste) Do not cool, keep at room temp.
To finish:
Remove the pots from the fridge and place two poached oysters on the top of each panna cotta then gently pour the cucumber gêlée mix over the top until half covering the oyster, repeat for all four, place back in the fridge until gêlée is set apx. 1hr. Garnish with a thin slice of lemon and a fennel sprig.
Kristin Jorgensen is one of Sonoma’s most passionate, food obsessed residents. In this weekly column, she covers all the delicious happenings, foodie events and restaurants in Sonoma, the rest of Wine Country and beyond. Find her blogging daily as the Cook (thecardiganandcook.com) or via email at foodandwine@sonomasun.com.
Most delicious event of the week
Experience “One Night in Paris” at the Sebastiani Theater on Monday, February 13. Beginning at 7 p.m. treat your sweetie to a romantic evening of Gypsy jazz with local French musician Michel Saga and his entertaining group of talented musicians that makes up the band Rue Manouche. This year, guests will also have the opportunity to experience special guest performers from the Red Moon Cabaret and award-winning violinist Evan Price. Tickets cost $25, with 50 percent of ticket sales and 100 percent of wine bar sales benefitting the Sebastiani Theater Foundation. Find tickets at the box office or at Reader’s Books. Call 996.9756 for more information.
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