I remember, like it was yesterday, the first time I sat at a sushi bar, the first time I even walked into a Japanese restaurant. I was fifteen. I was nervous and jumped a little when I slid the chair from under the bar and the leg screeched angrily against the lovely bamboo floors, a shocking noise amongst the serenity, the quiet of the place. I gingerly settled myself into my seat and slowly, unexpectedly, fell in love. I remember that a steaming hot cloth was presented to me on a small wooden plate, I remember it smelled of jasmine or orchids. An unusual, faraway smell. I can still smell that cloth.
The chef, who looked exotic in his starched white kimono, a tight blue sash tied at his waste, presented me with a complimentary little bowl of noodles. The thinnest of noodles were dotted with sesame seeds, slivers of – what I was to later learn was – toasted seaweed, and a smoky soy-based broth. Oh, how I loved those noodles. I loved the beautiful, rustic little bowl in which they were served. I loved the ritual of hot tea poured slowly from a delicate, pale green tea pot, grey cranes in-flight painted along each side. I was immediately obsessed with eating with chopsticks, it seemed utterly foreign, so romantic. Each time the chef handed me a piece of fish, the garlicky dumplings, my tempura vegetables – which I have since become addicted to – he placed his palms together at his chest, bowed gently, a little prayer. I loved that.
I remember that the chef’s fingers were amazingly long and feminine, almost fluid, I couldn’t take my eyes off of them. The way the small balls of rice fit perfectly in his palm, the long slice of fish landing beautifully on top. I fell in love with the atmosphere of that tranquil restaurant, where you could sit on woven mats on the floor, but only if you first removed your shoes. It was there, at that tiny spot, that I experienced so many food firsts. My first slice of raw fish, a piece of glistening, fatty, wild Alaskan salmon, still my favorite to this day. I experienced the joy, the pain, of my first wasabi burn. It was where I had my first real restaurant date, that night taking my first tentative sip of sake. I returned as often as my meager teenage salary allowed, working my way through every mysterious dish on the handwritten menu. I simply could not get enough. The lengthy list of crazy sounding rolls were enough to keep me satiated for months, but I preferred the pure, clean flavors of that day’s nigiri, the simplicity of unadorned seafood and sticky rice, which was strangely, immensely satisfying. With each visit I stoked my newly found wasabi addiction.
I instantly adored the Japanese culture and everything about sushi. I was obsessed with the tradition, the ritual of it all. The hot cloths rolled just so and stacked on their thick wooden plates, handed to each guest with a slight bow, the chopsticks resting carefully on something pretty, made for exactly that purpose set carefully at each place setting. I really liked how you would never think of pouring your own sake, you poured for your guest and then they for you. I wanted to learn the proper way to eat, as not to be one of those embarrassing Americans. I learned to not rub my chopsticks together obnoxiously and to not make a murky green paste with my soy and wasabi.
There is just something about sushi that makes me so completely happy. I honestly can say that there is no other food that I crave more and luckily, to satisfy those cravings, we have Shiso. Because I lived in a small mountain town for years without a sushi bar, I know how miserable life without instant access to raw fish and wasabi can be. Chef Ed Metcalf’s charming little sushi spot in the Maxwell Village Shopping Center always hits the spot with it’s locals-only vibe, comfy decor and fresh offerings. I can never resist starting with my most-loved item, a salmon hand roll. Toasted nori is a perfect, crunchy wrapper for vinegary sticky rice, creamy avocado, slivers of crisp cucumber and buttery, fresh, raw salmon. I love that Chef Metcalf never skimps on the salmon. A hand roll is heaven when it’s prepared lovingly and at Shiso, as with all of their food, it always is.
The smallish menu of fresh fish consists of favorites like tuna, sweet shrimp, hamachi and, another favorite of mine, jumbo sea scallop. Oh my gosh, is there anything more delicious than a fresh scallop? Yummy, with a few drops of citrus – perhaps yuzu – brightening up the super sweet shellfish. Large, creative rolls are also always fun. The “West Side” is a mouthful of delicious spicy salmon, green onions and peanuts all fried in a crispy tempura batter and drizzled with a sweet chili sauce. I could wax poetically for days for my love for sushi, but I think I need a wasabi fix! I’m off to Shiso! Shiso is located at 19161 Sonoma Highway. For more information or to make a reservation, call 933.9331 or visit shisorestaurant.com.
Kristin’s foodie event pick of the week
Last week, I excitedly drove to San Rafael in a scary, dramatic rain storm for a one night only showing of a documentary entitled, “Jiro Dreams of Sushi.” If it is at all possible, I fell deeper in love with the Japanese culture and sushi while watching this beautifully filmed story of eighty-five year old master sushi chef, Jiro, and his pursuit for the absolute perfection of his craft. He is renowned as the world’s greatest sushi chef and his touching story will certainly move you, sushi devotee or not. The story of Jiro’s dedication to detail, his obsession for obtaining the world’s most pristine products, and his eldest son’s succession as master chef, all unfold between gorgeous, sweeping shots of the daily food preparations for the tiny, ten seat restaurant hidden deep within a Tokyo subway. I cannot think of a more delicious way to spend an evening than to watch this fabulous documentary followed by a sushi dinner. Luckily, Santa Rosa’s Summerfield Cinemas is showing the film for one night only, tomorrow, April 6. Call 522.0719 or visit summerfieldcinemas.com for more information, directions and/or showtimes.
On THe Menu
For a really festive option for Easter dining, head to the Hotbox Grill where Chef Norman Owens will be preparing an “Easter Brinner!” In addition to many of their regular, delicious menu offerings, his “breakfast for dinner” offerings sound like exactly the perfect Easter meal, particularly the braised rabbit over rabbit liver hash with a whole grain mustard sauce or the chicken fried filet with Paul’s Produce kale, whipped potatoes and béarnaise! Yum, béarnaise! Call 939.8383 or visit hotboxgrill.com to make reservations or for more information.
• On Saturday, April 14, head to ESTATE for a “Cooks with Books” luncheon event with Sondra Bernstein and Chef John Toulze celebrating the duo’s beautiful new book, “Plats du Jour: the girl and the fig’s Journey Through the Seasons in Wine Country.” The cost for lunch, wine and a signed book is $120 per person or $195 per couple. Call 415.927.0960 or visit bookpassage.com to make your necessary reservations.
• Dining Club Rive Gauche returns on April 25 at 7 p.m. with “The Cuisine of Brazil” at the Sonoma Valley Grange Hall. The four-course menu includes a seafood course of bolinhos de bacalhau, a sweet potato salad, spice rubbed chicken and more. Live music will be courtesy of Tudo Bem. The tasty sounding menu and music are $35 per person plus gratuity. Reservations are required by calling 996.0900.
Salmon Hand Roll
Serves 4
Ingredients
1 (5 ounce) center cut salmon fillet, skin removed, finely chopped
4 teaspoons sesame oil
4 teaspoons soy sauce
4 toasted nori sheets, cut in 1/2 lengthwise
1 small cucumber, peeled and sliced into slivers
1 small avocado, peeled, seeded and sliced into slivers
2 cups cooked Sushi Rice, recipe follows
To serve: wasabi, sweet picked ginger, soy sauce
In a medium bowl, mix together the chopped salmon, sesame oil, soy sauce, and mint leaves. Place a sheet of nori, shiny side down, on a work surface. Place 1/4 cup of the rice on the left side of the nori sheet. Using wet fingers, form the rice into a 3-inch square, leaving a 1/2-inch border. Place about 2 tablespoons of the salmon mixture, diagonally, in a 1/2-inch wide strip, on the rice, with the top of the salmon mixture facing the top left corner. Place a few slivers of cucumber on top of the salmon. Starting with the bottom left corner, roll the nori over the filling. Continue to roll, ice cream cone-fashion, working towards the right corner of the nori. Seal the edge of the hand roll with water or a few grains of the cooked rice. Repeat with the remaining ingredients.
Arrange on a serving platter and serve with wasabi, sweet pickled ginger and soy sauce.
Sushi Rice:
2 cups short-grain sushi rice (recommended: Kokuho Rose)
2 1/2 cups water
1/4 cup seasoned rice vinegar
Place the rice and water in a medium saucepan over high heat. Bring the mixture to a boil. Cover the pan and reduce the heat to low. Simmer for 25 minutes. Sprinkle the vinegar over the rice and mix with a fork. Transfer the cooked rice to a parchment paper-lined baking sheet. Allow the rice to cool completely before using.
Kristin Jorgensen is one of Sonoma’s most passionate, food obsessed residents. In this weekly column, she covers all the delicious happenings, foodie events and restaurants in Sonoma, the rest of Wine Country and beyond. Find her blogging daily as the Cook at thecardiganandcook.com or via email at foodandwine@sonomasun.com.
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