Under the shade of several old olive trees, the warm Sonoma sun filtering softly through sage-colored leaves, I sipped a delicious, golden Carneros Chardonnay, while nibbling on a thoughtfully arranged platter of local cheeses. As shoppers meandered casually in and out of the artsy shops at Cornerstone Gardens, Mr. B and I enjoyed a surprising and utterly divine late lunch.
On this gorgeous day, we were sitting under a cheery yellow umbrella at one of the many outdoor tables scattered about at Cornerstone’s newest eatery, Park 121. We just so happened to pop in while driving by, luckily remembering at the very last minute that — yippee! — a new café had opened here. The shops and gardens at Cornerstone have always been a favorite spot of mine. I love to stroll around on a pretty day, particularly when I am looking for a unique gift or have visitors from out of town needing amusement. On this random Tuesday, the crushed stone-covered patio here could not have been a more ideal spot to linger.
The café space, nestled between the fabulous architectural salvage store, Artifact, and Meadowcroft Winery’s charming, tin-roofed tasting room, has sadly seen several skilled restaurateurs come and go. Most recently, my hopes were high for the success of an Argentinean steak concept. I dreamt of evenings spent here under the twinkling string lights, devouring a skillfully prepared cut of beef, charred on the restaurant’s outdoor, wood-burning grill, accompanied (of course!) by a generous portion of my favorite steak accompaniment, a bright green, classic Argentinean chimi churri.
I looked forward to tango dancing on warm summer weekends and entertained romantic visions of candlelit steak dinners and boisterous friend-filled suppers crowded around a long table, sharing heaping wooden boards of rare steak and bottles of strong red wine. Finally, a fabulous steakhouse in Sonoma. And in this enchanting location!
Until they closed. Sigh, oh well.
Everything about the outdoor space is appealing; the olive trees, which rustle in the pretty breezes, its all quiet serenity for the exception of peeping finches overhead, the tinkling of thin wine glasses as they touch, and the happy laughter from nearby tables. Ceramic pots overflow with grasses and cheerful flowers and a bocce court beckons players to order another glass of wine and stay for a spirited game or two. The chic, indoor dining area manages to feel warm and welcoming in spite of its poured concrete flooring and soaring ceilings.
Crisp shirted, fresh-faced, waiters were buzzing about, immediately greeting us with smiles, offering seats wherever we’d be happiest. This sweet and obliging service continued through our meal, water glasses continuously refilled, questions and indecision met with more cheer and plenty of helpful suggestions.
Again, I pray that this latest incarnation will succeed. Since experiencing this lovely meal, I see no reason it shouldn’t. I see no reason that it shouldn’t become an adored eatery of every out of town visitor and Sonoman. The menu at Park 121 is a perfect Wine Country combination of casual and elegant, highlighting local products and whatever is currently in season.
Chef Bruce Riezenman, fortunately, an obvious member of the farm to table movement, offers an evolving lunch menu based on the bounty of Sonoma County’s artisanal producers, not to mention the green goods plucked minutes before from Cornerstone’s very own gardens. Local farmers have star billing, poultry and meats are all-natural and lovingly raised, and sauces and soups are carefully made in-house. Platters of cheeses and cured meats, ideal to share with a table of friends, arrive from area dairies and painstakingly sourced Bay Area artisans.
You know I love anything veggie, and Chef Riezenman does a marvelous job with a nice list of Italian-ish vegetable antipasti. Grilled eggplant receive a tart-sweet ‘agrodolce’ preparation, heaven when smeared on crusty bread with a slab of my favorite Fra’ Mani Sopresseta. I am already planning my next meal here, of nothing but hors d’oeuvres — heaping platters of those interesting vegetables and cheese — under the silvery branches of the olive trees.
I give Park 121 massive praise for its all-Carneros wine list. So appreciated, a move that seems like a no-brainer, but rarely happens in Wine Country. Wines from Carneros, sipped in Carneros. A golden glass, or three, of Robledo Chardonnay could not have been more delicious between bites of my duck salad. Slivers of pear and falling-apart duck confit, a lavish portion nearly twice what I imagined, with crisp frisée and giant, über creamy Rancho Gordo beans. The mustard-filled vinaigrette, a puckering brightness that balanced the decadent duck. Mr. B’s ‘Ultimate Ranch Salad’ was, in fact, the ultimate ranch salad. A tangy buttermilk dressing mingled with, what in less conscientious places, would be a mound of boring ingredients. Here, carrots, beets, and chick peas were nothing short of happy-dance inducing.
There is so much more I’m eager to eat at Park 121. It will surely take many visits to just make my way through the sandwiches and soups. A nearby table’s pulled pork sandwich looked outrageous, chunks of glistening pork spilling from a shiny topped soft bun and there was a Cuban sandwich on the special winter menu that I pray remains through spring. There are pastas too, and they sound divine. A special that day, a bowl of warm farro and vegetables, I debated ordering, sounded right up my alley. Blue Bottle coffee will surely tempt me each time I drive by that big blue chair. It doesn’t help that supposedly the brownies and other handmade desserts are to-die-for and would pair perfectly with that rich, dark brew. Well, I guess more research is needed… and look, it’s almost lunchtime now.
On the Menu
The Sonoma Valley Food Forum, initiated and hosted by the Sonoma Chamber with support from Sonoma County and the Sonoma Valley Economic Development Partnership, will be held on Thursday, March 21 from 4 p.m. to 7 p.m. at the Veterans Memorial Building. This very important “celebration of local farming and food” will be held in conjunction with the annual Business Expo. Find event details at sonomachamber.com. Businesses interested in joining should contact the Chamber and home-based, “cottage food,” businesses are welcome. The event is open to the public, admission is complimentary, and a $10 food and wine passport is available.
Andrea Davis of our little, local, Quarter Acre Farm will discuss how to simply start a successful, edible garden during her “Basic Backyard Vegetable Gardening” class on Sunday, March 24, from 11 a.m. to 1 p.m. She will cover topics such as choosing what plants to grow, preparing your soil, maintaining your garden, harvesting your bounty, and more. This class and others in this series will be taking place at The Stone House, the office of HWY 12 Properties, at 147 East Spain Street. Reservations are required and space is very limited. The cost is $10 per person. For more information or to RSVP, email Andrea at quarteracre.sonoma@gmail.com or call 415.533.3106.
Chef Rob Larman hosts his “Annual Spring Lamb Dinner” on Friday, March 29, at the Valley Wine Shack. The always-delicious dinner starts with a salad of Dino kale, roasted beets, and blood orange, followed by wood-oven roasted Sonoma lamb with savory beans and a mint pesto. Finally, the best part: fresh strawberry shortcake. The cost is $38 per person. Wines by the glass or bottle to pair with the meal will be available for purchase from the Wine Shack. For reservations and more information, call the Wine Shack at 938.7218.
The Sonoma Community Center continues its “Community Table” dinner series on Saturday, March 30, with a three-course menu by Cafe La Haye’s Executive Chef Jeremy Lloyd. The menu will include an Apple Cauliflower Soup with Gruyère Cheese, Braised English Cut Short Ribs, Root Vegetable Mashed Potatoes, Cabbage Braised in Red Wine, and Cafe La Haye’s signature Butterscotch Pudding with Almond Sea Salt Toffee. Wine pairings by Gundlach Bundschu will accompany this special meal. Tickets for each dinner are $65 per person. To reserve your seat or to obtain information on other upcoming dinners, call 938.4626 ext. 1, or visit the Sonoma Valley Box Office at sonomacommunitycenter.org.
Crazy-good Irish potatoes
Perfect for a St. Paddy’s Day dinner of corned beef or a Guinness beef stew! These are everything potatoes should be: crisp-skinned yet pillowy, sprinkled with a generous amount of crunchy salt and fresh, pungent rosemary.Serves 4
- 12 small, waxy yellow creamer potatoes (or red-skinned)
- 1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
- 2 T. chopped fresh rosemary
- 1 T. Kosher salt
- Good, flakey salt to taste (such as fleur de sel)
- Coarse ground black pepper
Generously cover potatoes with cold water in a 3-to 4-quart pot and add Kosher salt. Simmer until almost tender, 10 to 15 minutes. Drain potatoes. Transfer to a baking sheet and lightly smash potatoes with palm of your hand to about 3/4 inch thick, keeping potatoes intact as much as possible. Heat oil in a 12-inch heavy skillet over medium-high heat until it shimmers. Transfer potatoes with a spatula to skillet, then lower heat to medium-low and cook, turning once, until golden brown, about 20 minutes total. Serve sprinkled with rosemary and salt. Season generously with pepper. Serve immediately.
Kristin Jorgensen is one of Sonoma’s most passionate, food obsessed residents. In this weekly column, she covers all the delicious happenings, foodie events and restaurants in Sonoma, the rest of Wine Country and beyond. Email her with comments, questions, or your food related events at foodandwine@sonomasun.com.
