The woodsy, heavenly smelling smoke hovers over the horseshoe, making my stomach growl and as I approach the Plaza, I am ridiculously happy to see the bright white tops of the market tents through the (finally) green leaves of the trees. It is officially Tuesday Farmer’s Market time in Sonoma. I, like most Sonomans I am sure, have been eagerly anticipating the return of the market…the unofficial kick off to the constant, happy Sonoma summer season of winery events, backyard barbecues, and, of course, summer veggies!
This year’s market looks to be one of the best yet, the Plaza lined snugly with a yummy selection of prepared food vendors, while festive local music acts are lined up to entertain, and all the areas most dedicated farmers in residence with their spectacular fresh fruits and vegetables.
Returning this year is two of my favorite prepared food vendors, the producers of all that beautiful, tummy grumbling wood smoke: Mike [the bejkr] and Rob Larman’s Cochon Volant BBQ. Mike’s world-class breads are on offer from his stand on the west side of City Hall. His gorgeous, crusty baguettes are dreamy, and could be dinner in themselves, but what you truly want are his crazy-good flatbreads. His dough is nothing short of pizza dough perfection. It has this wonderful, subtle yeastiness. The edges char in the most wonderful way from the extreme heat of the fire and the crust always has the most delightful, ideal chew. Toppings vary week to week and are always seasonal, obtained from other market vendors, but always feature a restrained amount of vegetables, slivered remarkably thin and finished with a few dots of some unique, and if we’re lucky, stinky cheese. This is slow food at its finest, hence the inevitable, but so-worth-it, line.
Chef Rob Larman’s smoking metal pig stands sentry over the South side of the horseshoe to allow the porky smoke to drift westward. Although, you can smell its beautiful fragrance from anywhere on the Plaza, it inevitably lures me right to it. Pulled pork is difficult to resist. Larman’s version is ultra slow cooked, decadent and tender. It arrives spilling extravagantly from a fluffy, pillowy potato bun. I can’t help but pile the vinegary, pickled red onions on my sandwich; the tart onions and the rich, meaty pork are a match made in barbecue heaven. If I am feeling particularly health-conscience – or just saving room for dessert – I might opt for his big smoked chicken salad. Pretty greens and crisp vegetables for this dish and his seasonal sides are procured from Paul’s Produce, whose stand is hardly forty feet away.
A smattering of new vendors to the market this year features a plethora of new savory options for snacking or downright dining. In addition to scrumptious sushi, Thai, Mediterranean, crepes, and more, market goers can now nibble on plump, nicely barbecued oysters, crispy fish and chips, grilled tri-tip, and even traditional, southern looking fried chicken I look forward to sampling.
Sweet things are always plentiful. One could certainly get a sugar high in many forms here, from creative cupcakes and homemade pie, to kettle corn or even my favorite: Thai coconut sticky rice served with slices of fresh mango. Typically, I tend to bypass most of those sticky sweets and choose from the divine array of fresh fruit from the farm vendors; Oh the cherries and the strawberries!
Although, my favorite new vendor at the market this year is hawking something sweet that I truly cannot resist. Sweet Peabody’s Homemade Sorbet sells sorbet from a cute little cart on the Northeast side of City Hall. Each flavor changes based on what is in season at the market and are produced in small, handcrafted batches. The decadent, Campfire Coconut is a lush, creamy concoction of fresh, young roasted coconut and a Silverado Strawberry tasted of nothing more than frozen, super sweet strawberries, intensified. You’d never guess the Fierce Chocolate was cream-free, nothing more than a lush, velvety cup of frozen, surprisingly low-calorie, dark chocolatey goodness. I am eager to taste each week’s fun, fruity creation.
I made the decision to move to Sonoma after strolling thru a Tuesday Farmer’s Market. I figured that the whole town was there that night, picnicking, sipping wine, laughing, eating, and watching little kids dancing barefoot in the grass. On that evening, I gawked at the massive tables spilling heirloom tomatoes and watched in wonderment as the line for hand-dipped corn dogs snaked practically around the block. I knew at that moment that there couldn’t possibly be a more perfect, delicious place in the whole world to live. I can’t help but think of that night each Tuesday and think how true that is.
Kristin Jorgensen is one of Sonoma’s most passionate, food obsessed residents. In this weekly column, she covers all the delicious happenings, foodie events and restaurants in Sonoma, the rest of Wine Country and beyond. Email her with comments, questions, or your food related events at foodandwine@sonomasun.com.
