Every week when I begin to think about writing this column, I begin with the happy thought that I get to spend a bit of time with a handful of friends – that’s you, my dear, hungry readers. Chatting merrily about our favorite things: food memories, family recipes, our travels, restaurants and chefs that inspire, farmer’s markets and best-loved ingredients. I think of our time together like a festive dinner party, no politics, no arguments and definitely no religion. I wish for my readers to consider my column uplifting and impassioned, to know that my ramblings are simply my opinions and that I only want to do my best to share my delicious experiences with each of you each week.
Unfortunately, it’s beginning to get increasingly more difficult to have light and fun conversations about food. It is now a hot topic and a favorite for debate. Food is now becoming “one of those subjects” you avoid at dinner parties. It has become more than simply something we put into our mouths to nourish and sustain us, more than something to celebrate, to share, to prepare and to grow. Food is now political, it’s environmental, its racial and economical. Being an excited, food-loving person is no longer enough. Now, to be a “real” foodie, you had better be familiar with what fish are on the “safe” list, the status of the current Farm Bill, where to shop organically – choosing items with the most minute carbon footprint, of course – and how to avoid GMOs at all costs. Food has become more than a meal, it’s a Movement.
I doubt that you could find anyone who is more appreciative than me that a greater awareness of food, where it comes from and how it’s produced, has begun to unfold in our country. Although, the question for those of us concerned now becomes, how to maneuver through the snarl of food issues, information and disinformation that is out there and discover how it all relates to the subjects that are most important to each of us? For you it might be the big issues like ending hunger in our community – yes, we have that here – or, to bring awareness to the cruelties happening in the industrial meat industry. You might work with local organizations that are desperate to better children’s health and end childhood obesity through parental education, improving school lunches or working to install school gardens. Or, you may just choose to do your best on a daily basis to make healthy decisions whenever you shop or prepare a meal. Whatever you do…be passionate, it’s a lovely way to inspire others to look at their own food choices. But – first and most importantly! – be informed. I have included a handful of my favorite links for food information and education below.
Food is, and always has been, my life. I was very fortunate to be taught from an early age the importance of making healthy food choices, dining together regularly as a family and being conscience of where our food comes from. I was taught these invaluable lessons from my parents, also passionate foodies, through gardening, fishing, responsible hunting and cooking together. These early life experiences continuously remind me of the difficulties of growing food, of utterly respecting an animal destined for the table, to be mindful of waste and the true value of sharing a meal. These are the issues that matter most to me. I hope that in sharing my stories and experiences here, that I may also inspire others to take action in their own Food Movement.
strength.org – Share Our Strength is a national non-profit ending childhood hunger in America.
slowfoodusa.org – A world wide organization working effortlessly to create lasting change in our food systems through awareness, community and transforming food policy, production practices and market forces.
montereybayaquarium.org – Protecting our oceans and fisheries. Check out the Seafood Watch List regularly to learn what seafood to choose and which to avoid, this site helps you to become advocates for ocean-friendly seafood.
farmaid.org – Farm Aid works with local, regional and national organizations to promote fair farm policies and grassroots organizing campaigns designed to defend and bolster family farm-centered agriculture.
ecoliteracy.org, edibleschoolyard.org, csgn.org – Learn more about how these organizations are working to fight childhood obesity through school gardens and school lunch programs.
vanishingbees.com – Documentary film on the mystery of the disappearance of the vital honey bee population.
On the Menu
The next “Community Table” dinner event is this Saturday, March 26, at the Community Center and features master Japanese Chef Ken Tominaga of the fabulous Rohnert Park spot, Hana Restaurant. This distinctive dinner will also feature sake pairings, all for $30! All proceeds benefit the Community Center’s Culinary Arts Programs. To make your reservations, call 938.4626 or email scc@vom.com. To learn more about Hana Japanese Restaurant, see their website at hanajapanese.com.
• There are always fun, food happenings at the Oxbow Marketplace in downtown Napa. This Saturday, March 26, Tillerman Tea Company hosts a “Tea Class and Tasting,” featuring Yunnan Puerh. These teas are amongst the oldest styles of tea known to man. It should be really interesting to learn about and taste these unique teas. Reservations are necessary and can be made by emailing Tillerman at dcampbell@tillermantea.com. Also at the Oxbow this weekend, “Hog Island Oyster Bar’s Guest Shucker” series continues Saturday from 2:30 till 5:30 p.m. with Violet Grgich of Grgich Hills Estate Winery. Other celebrity shuckers coming soon are Chef John Ash on April 30 and James Beard award-winning author Rowan Jacobsen May 14. For more information visit the Oxbow’s website at oxbowpublicmarket.com.
• On Saturday, April 9, experience a rare opportunity to join Bruce Aidells, founder of Bruce Aidells Sausage Company and contributor to Bon Appetit, Food & Wine, & Gourmet Magazines, as he partners with Lambert Bridge Winery in Healdsburg for a remarkable culinary experience! Savor the enticing flavors of his world-renowned sausages and learn “Sausage Making” techniques from the master while sipping on Lambert Bridge’s delicious wines! Included in this culinary demo and full lunch is a signed copy of Bruce’s “Sausage Book” and a jar of “Bruce’s Rub” to enhance your cooking techniques. Reservations are required and can be made by calling 431.4670. Ticket prices are $95 or $75 for wine club members. See lambertbridge.com for more details.
• The Point Reyes Farmstead Cheese Company – producers of the famous Point Reyes Blue Cheese – recently opened a gorgeous culinary and event center named The Fork at their farm and dairy just north of Point Reyes Station. One of the major goals of The Fork is farm-to-table education through tours and cooking classes. One very fun sounding class coming soon is with local author and cheese authority, Laura Werlin. The class, “Grilled Cheese, Please!” celebrates her newest book of the same title. She will share her vast knowledge of cheese, while creating an indulgent menu consisting of America’s favorite sandwich, the grilled cheese. The class will be held on Friday, April 15, at 10:30 a.m. Make your reservations and see The Fork’s complete list of classes at theforkatpointreyes.com or by calling 800.591.6878.
• The Second Annual “Are You Smarter Than a Fifth Grader?” is back at the Veteran’s Building on Saturday, April 23, with KRON 4 News’ Mark Danon hosting. The fun, and at-times hilarious, game show features local competitors battling wits while raising funds to assist the important works being done by the Sonoma Valley Education Foundation. In addition to the show, guests and contestants will be able to enjoy casual food, beer and wine, a silent auction and raffle. The doors open at 5 p.m. with the event beginning at 6 p.m. Tickets are $25 and can be purchased online at svgreatschools.com or by calling 935.9566.
Polling the punits
What are the Food Issues in America that are most important to you? I asked this question to a few of Sonoma Valley’s most instrumental and influential voices in food and here are there responses:
Kathleen Leonard, president of the Slow Food, Sonoma Valley Chapter: “I would say its childhood obesity. The devastating effects to the physical and mental health of the child affect his or her whole life. Reaching beyond the single child to the obese community as a whole, is the cost to society in terms of health care and productivity. I do not blame an individual for their own obesity, but our culture of unhealthy food choices, cheap “bad foods” and expensive healthy foods.”
John McReynolds, culinary director of Stone Edge Farm: “I like to think that when eating simple and locally-sourced foods that I am closer to eating the way my grandparents and great-grandparents did and that is exciting! They spent a lot more time growing, sourcing, and foraging food. It was not something they rushed through, it was something to be enjoyed like sitting on the porch swing with a glass of iced tea on a warm summer’s day.”
Candi Edmondson, co-owner of Paul’s Produce: “What is most important to me is health; health of the community and health of the environment. The agriculture systems which are running our food supply have degenerated not just human (and animal) health but nature’s ability to restore balance. It’s nice to see our community and beyond, re-prioritize their households’ income, spending more on good, clean food and less somewhere else. Health should be a priority.”
Virginia Hubbell, director of CittaSlow Sonoma Valley: “Planting plants that attract and protect bees and other pollinators in our own local gardens, and eating from locally grown and sourced food, are the most important issues to me. These two issues have broad ramifications for the future of our food supply, and they both have a positive impact on climate change. Without bees…no food…and when we eat locally, we are not only supporting our own farmers and producers, we are also taking a stand to reduce carbon emissions.”
Foodie Find of the Week
I’ve always considered myself something of a peanut butter snob. I grew up eating Peter Pan brand peanut butter – always chunky! – and I thought that stuff was pretty great back then. I would cringe when I’d find myself at a friend’s house whose mom bought some oily, store-brand peanut butter. Uh-uh. Not for my PB&J. I cannot even tell you how many times I would whine to my mom that I was hungry for a snack and she would tell me to “go eat a spoonful of peanut butter!” So I would and I often still do. I had no idea that my favorite brand also contains added oil stabilizers and sugar. Gee, thanks Mom. In recent years, I thought I had stumbled onto something healthy and even more peanut buttery and wonderful when I started buying the Trader Joe’s, organic, all-natural, just-peanuts, peanut butter. Well, it was yummy for a while, until I next stumbled upon the peanut pièce de résistance…the just-made, from scratch, house-puréed peanut butter at Sonoma Market. Imagine popping a handful of super-fresh, slightly salty, perfectly roasted peanuts into your mouth. So, what are you waiting for? Go eat a spoonful of peanut butter!
Monterey Bay Aquarium’s Seafood Watch List
The Monterey Bay Aquarium Seafood Watch program creates science-based recommendations that help consumers and businesses make ocean-friendly seafood choices. Carry this pocket guide with you and share it with others to help spread the word.
Best Choices:
Abalone (US farmed)
Arctic Char (farmed)
Barramundi (US farmed)
Catfish (US farmed)
Clams, Mussels, Oysters (farmed)
Cod: Pacific (US bottom longline)
Crab: Dungeness
Halibut: Pacific (US)
Lobster: Spiny (US)
Rockfish: Black (CA, OR, WA, hook & line)
Sablefish/Black Cod (Alaska, BC)
Salmon (Alaska wild)
Sardines: Pacific (US)
Scallops (farmed off-bottom)
Shrimp: Pink (OR)
Striped Bass (farmed or wild*)
Tilapia (US farmed)
Trout: Rainbow (US farmed)
Tuna: Albacore including canned
white tuna (troll/pole, US and BC)
Tuna: Skipjack including canned light tuna (troll/pole)
White Seabass
Avoid:
Caviar, Sturgeon* (imported wild)
Chilean Seabass/Toothfish*
Cod: Atlantic and imported
Pacific Cobia (imported farmed)
Crab: King (imported)
Dogfish (US)*
Lobster: Spiny (Brazil)
Mahi Mahi/Dolphinfish (imported)
Marlin: Blue*, Striped*
Monkfish Orange Roughy*
Rockfish (trawled)
Salmon (farmed, including Atlantic)*
Sharks*
Shrimp (imported)
Swordfish (imported)*
Tilapia (Asia farmed)
Tuna: Albacore, Bigeye, Yellowfin (longline)*
Tuna: Bluefin* and Tongol Tuna: Canned
(except troll/pole)*
* Limit consumption due to concerns about mercury or other contaminants.
Arctic Char with Orange & Fennel
Recipe from the Monterey Bay Aquarium
Serves 4
4 medium fennel bulbs, trimmed, cut lengthwise into 1-inch wide wedges, some fronds minced and reserved for garnish
2 large red onions, peeled, cut through the stem end into 1-inch wide wedges
2 T. olive oil, plus more as needed
4 tsp. grated orange zest
1¾ tsp. fennel seeds, crushed coarsely
Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper
4 Arctic char fillets, 5-6 ounces each
1/4 cup balsamic vinegar
1/4 cup fresh orange juice
2 tsp. firmly packed brown sugar
Arrange one rack in the upper third and one rack in the lower third of the oven, preheat to 450 degrees. Combine the fennel wedges and onions in a large bowl. Add the 2 T. of the oil, 1 1/2 tsp. of the orange zest, and 1 tsp. of the fennel seeds and toss to coat the vegetables. Sprinkle with salt and pepper and toss. Arrange the vegetables in a single layer on a large-rimmed baking sheet. Place on the upper oven rack and roast for 15 minutes. Stir the vegetables and continue roasting until tender and beginning to brown, about 15 minutes longer.
Meanwhile, brush a small, rimmed baking sheet with olive oil. Brush the skin of the fish with olive oil and place skin side down on the prepared baking sheet. Brush the top of the fish with olive oil and sprinkle with salt, pepper, 1 1/2 tsp. of the orange zest, and remaining fennel seeds.
After the vegetables have cooked 20 minutes, place the pan with the fish on the lower oven rack and cook the fish until it feels springy when pressed in the center, about 8-10 minutes, depending on the thickness of the fish. For another test of doneness, make a small incision in the thickest part of the fish; the flesh should be just opaque in the center. If it’s still translucent, cook a few minutes longer. While the fish cooks, mix the vinegar, orange juice, brown sugar and remaining grated orange zest in a large skillet. Stir until the sugar dissolves. Simmer over medium heat until thickened to a syrupy texture, stirring frequently, about 3 minutes. Remove from the heat. Divide the vegetables and fish among 4 warmed plates, saving the juices on the fish pan. Stir 3-4 tsp. of the fish juices into the balsamic sauce. Spoon the sauce over the fish and vegetables. Sprinkle lightly with fennel fronds and serve immediately.
I think this is my most favorite column to date! Really love the focus on quality paired with gratitude.
I now pick a copy of The Sun just to read your article, but thanks for forwarding it to me! I really enjoy your writing style – fresh, friendly and informed.
You’ve got lots of great info packed into this one. And your list of organizations left me pondering what the two groups – Slow Food Sonoma vs. CittaSlow SV do differently… Just lately I’ve been considering joining the Sonoma Community Garden on 7th St., just to see what those folks are all about.
Thanks again for your enjoyable article,
Carol