It’s almost impossible to pry myself from the warmth of my comfy bed these days. I manage to partially open one eye and focus on the sheer drapes covering the tall windows, hoping for light, but heartbroken when it’s still dark and it’s almost 7 a.m. The sun seems hesitant to make its appearance too these mornings and when it does, it is a half-hearted, languid attempt. Each morning I expect to wake to the soft misting of a typical January morning, our normal winter rains and the sound of fat, wet drops that muffle the other morning noises. Yet, each day I wake and no, still no rain. I can’t imagine why this leaves me feeling melancholy, disappointed somehow. For months I mentally prepare for our winter rains with thoughts of preparing my go-to comfort foods, long evenings spent staring happily into a bubbling soup pot or sitting in front of a fire delving into my newest cookbook, honey-cidery aromas from a fruit crumble wafting from the kitchen. I am seriously craving comfort this month, more so than previous winter months and rain or no rain, I will fill my evenings with the dishes that leave me feeling full. My belly warm and my heart and soul comforted.
Split pea soup
Few things bring me more comfort than an oversized bowl of soft, smokey legumes. I am particularly obsessed with split peas. Certainly there is no more ugly a dish that somehow manages to be downright sexy. The best split peas are a straightforward thing, they hardly require a recipe you know. A few aromatics; a dice of onion, a hunk of shredded carrot or a handful of random herbs are sautéed briefly in a generous spoonful of bacon drippings, or duck fat if you happen to be so blessed. Caramelized bits of your vegetables should be loosened from the bottom of the pot with a few cups of golden chicken or vegetable stock, or even water, which amazingly renders the finished product no less delicious. The bag of little green peas are emptied in with little fan fare, but must be followed by the crucial addition of a hunk of ham. A few meaty hocks if at all possible. It all bubbles together for an hour or four and when the peas are softened, practically to a happy state of mushiness, they are done and require little more than a drizzle of good, peppery olive oil, a carefree sprinkling of coarse salt and perhaps a chunk of warm, rustic bread.
Pudding
Pudding, whether it be the insanely delicious instant Jello kind or a homemade, adult version, I cannot think of a more guilty pleasure. The little, boxed version – the strangely green pistachio flavor please! – is whipped up with the best whole milk in mere minutes and, when allowed to set up in a fancy glass, brings me an immeasurable amount of joy. Homemade pudding could not be easier, the simple combination of sugar and cream are among life’s greatest, simplest indulgences. When my spoon slides through a rich, dark chocolate version it’s practically impossible to NOT smile. The cold, creamy concoction lands on my tongue, like when my head settles on my favorite down pillow. Butterscotch simply has to bring back nostalgic, childhood memories for everyone and is a decadent flavor, especially with the addition of crunchy salt. Pudding is easily dessert’s version of a big, soft hug.
Noodles
I dare anyone to tell me that pasta doesn’t win first place as the most comforting of foods. A dinner of long, slippery noodles, no matter what sort of sauce they’re doused in, are amongst the most essential of meals when I’m down. When twirled around the tines of my fork and slurped loudly, messily, all quickly seems better with the world. A dish of linguini swimming in a garlicky puttanesca sauce, heavy with salty capers and meaty black olives, and crowned with a shameful amount of fresh grated parmesan, will easily cure whatever ails you. Yes, even a broken heart. Particularly a broken heart. I promise. When holding a steaming bowl of Japanese ramen or Vietnamese Pho to your chin, awkwardly using chopsticks to shovel in the hot noodles, the potent aroma of ginger and chiles is aromatherapy of the most wonderful kind.
Crumble
My crumbles are pretty homely if you ask me, but that’s the charm of a crumble isn’t it? That and the fact that a crumble is generally amongst the coziest, not to mention simplest, of desserts. The sincerely cozy combination of fruit, the sort is certainly of no importance, and sugar can be thrown together in the small amount of time it takes to make a cup of tea. There is just something so utterly magical about warm, softened fruit – the juices turning all syrupy and yummy – the satisfying crunch of buttered, toasted oats and cold, creamy ice cream all melting into a whole ridiculous, delicious mess. The heavenly aromas of toasty butter and cinnamon while its baking waft through the house and are almost as divine as actually digging into it. But not quite.
On The Menu
On Thursday, January 19, Ramekin’s hosts a “Tour of Italy: Tuscany” cooking class with Lisa Lavagetto. This hands on class begins at 6:30 p.m. and students will experience the true characteristics of Italian food, prepared carefully and eaten slowly. The menu begins with Prosciutto stuffed focaccia, fresh pastas, braised meats with salsa verde and an almond torta for dessert. The cost is $95. Contact Ramekin’s for more details and to make your reservation at 933.0450.
• Be sure to make your reservations for Rob Larman’s “Annual Cioppino Dinner” at the Valley Wine Shack on Friday, January, 20 from 5:30 p.m. to 8 p.m. Guests will enjoy Rob’s delicious, traditional Cioppino filled with fresh fish and shellfish and served with polenta, a Caesar salad, bread and warm fruit crisp. The cost is $35 per person. Beer and wine will be available to purchase. Call the Valley Wine Shack to make your reservations at 938.7218.
• Welcome the “Year of the Dragon” with the Sonoma Sister Cities Association as they celebrate the Chinese New Year on Saturday, January 21 from 1 p.m. to 4 p.m. at Jacuzzi Family Vineyards. Guests will enjoy a cooking demonstration by Celebrity Chef Martin Yan, traditional Chinese lion dancing and a delicious selection of authentic dim sum. An amazing array of items have been donated for the silent auction, including a tour of China, limited edition prints from Lisa Kristine and a trio of Harlan Estate wines. Tickets are $60 per person, which benefit the Sonoma Sister Cities Association’s cultural exchange program. Tickets are limited and must be purchased in advance by calling 938.4626 ext. 1 or online at sonomacommunitycenter.org.
• Not to be missed, Ragazzi is the exciting pop-up restaurant dinner planned, prepared and served by teens connected with Sonoma Valley Teen Services. The date is Saturday, January 21 at 6 pm at the Community Café where guests will enjoy a four-course tasting menu at $50 a person. Proceeds benefit the SVTS Skills for Life programs, which were boosted by the $100,000 grant from Sonoma Impact100 earlier this year. For tickets contact Rebecca Hermosillo at 939.1452. Seating is limited so call today to make a reservation.
• Enjoy two great winter offerings from ESTATE and the girl and the fig. Every Tuesday at ESTATE order your first Negroni cocktail for $6 and receive a complimentary chef’s choice antipasti. To celebrate the launch of Sondra Bernstein’s new book, “Plats du Jour,” guests have the opportunity to receive a complimentary Plats du Jour/La Cena meal. Simply dine on a Plats du Jour at the girl and the fig and the fig cafe and a La Cena meal at ESTATE and save the receipts. Present them to any of the three restaurants and you’ll receive your card. For more information, visit thegirlandthefig.com.
Linguini Puttanesca
Serves 4
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
4 large garlic cloves, finely chopped
1 28.2-ounce can peeled tomatoes in puree with basil
1/2 cup Kalamata olives, halved, pitted
3 anchovy fillets, chopped
1 1/2 tablespoons drained capers
1 teaspoon dried oregano
1/2 teaspoon dried crushed red pepper
1 pound linguini
2 tablespoons chopped fresh Italian parsley
Grated Parmesan cheese
Heat oil in large pot over medium heat. Add garlic and sauté until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add tomatoes with puree, olives, anchovies, capers, oregano, and crushed red pepper. Simmer sauce over medium-low heat until thickened, breaking up tomatoes with spoon, about 8 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Meanwhile, cook pasta in large pot of boiling salted water until tender but still firm to bite. Drain pasta; return to same pot. Add sauce and parsley. Toss over low heat until sauce coats pasta, about 3 minutes. Serve with cheese.
Kristin Viguerie is one of Sonoma’s most passionate, food obsessed residents. In this weekly column, she covers all the delicious happenings, foodie events and restaurants in Sonoma, the rest of Wine Country and beyond. Find her blogging daily as the Cook (thecardiganandcook.com) or via email at foodandwine@sonomasun.com.
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