The Sun Profile: Winemaker Scott Peterson of Rumpus Cellars and S.P. Drummer

Winemaker Scott Peterson calls it the “Rumpus Room,” with good reason. Colorful abstract art by acclaimed American artist Martin Johnson decorates the walls. A beautiful wooden bar co-designed by Peterson and handcrafted by Petaluma artisans serves as the focal point for his two labels: Rumpus Cellars and S.P. Drummer. The back of the tasting room is where Peterson mixes, tastes and blends, creating works of drinkable art for his own labels and an additional seven other labels for four clients. He is your host in the tasting room, and brings a boisterous, welcoming East Coast attitude that is refreshing amongst the often coy and refined nature of Northern Californians.

Peterson’s introduction to winemaking started with a chance encounter with winemakers at Plymouth’s Santino Winery (now known as Renwood Winery), “It was the first winery I ever went to, I was 20. It was the middle of harvest and their crusher had broken down, grapes and bees were everywhere, and there were a bunch of guys in shorts and boots with long hair and playing reggae music and I thought to myself ‘You can make a living doing this?’” Peterson quit his job as a cook and started at the University of California, Davis, where he received his degree in Fermentation Science. His first internships were with Chateau St. Jean, Ironhorse, among others, and he eventually settled in Sonoma County, working as winemaker at Kendall Jackson, Chateau St. Michelle, and eventually quitting the corporate wine world to be a consultant for various clients in Northern California and Argentina.

He launched his label S.P. Drummer in the late 1990s, as an homage to his youth and the complex journeys that life takes us on. He makes two wines for S.P. Drummer: a Napa Valley Chardonnay and a meaty Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon/Cabernet Franc. The latter has a cult following on the east coast and is sold exclusively as a magnum. “I did this for the carnivores starting in 2005, in Manhattan and D.C…it did very well out east, but it wasn’t new world enough for the west coast, it lacked that pop of fruit.” Peterson is OK with that: as an East Coaster he’s glad S.P. Drummer has found its following especially in the Southeast, where he grew up. The cork represents an important time in Peterson’s life: as a boy, he was a drummer in the Colonial Williamsburg Fifes and Drums corps. There is no doubt that his Fifes and Drums experience was influential on his life. As an individual, Peterson is unapologetic and walks to the beat of a different drummer, yet understands the regiment and dedication required of a winemaker to make wines that satisfy the palette of the consumer.

To ensure that beat remains different, he founded Rumpus Cellars in 2006. All wines made under the Rumpus label use grapes grown within 20 miles of Sonoma, many from the Sonoma Coast AVA. Peterson was bored with the typical varietals most wineries were producing such as Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. “I wanted to be the kid on the block that produces Albariño, Vermentino, Aligoté..from cool climates, a red blend…and aromatic whites.” Peterson often describes his Rumpus wines being “chaotic” yet focused on “purity,” the latter being his own personal buzzword, which he picked up after a recent trip to Alsace, France. His 2012 Vermentino is a perfect balance of freshness, purity and has a unique delicate flavor that would pair well with any equally as fresh and fragile extra virgin olive oil based dish. “I wanted to have a cluster [of grapes] where you can just squeeze it and literally it’s fermented grape juice…wine with very little interruption,” and it’s evident when you taste this wine. The Albariño is a delicate product with a wonderful acidity and dryness that escapes the floral overload I tend to dislike. It’s a gem of a white wine and very easy on the palate. There is no chaos with these wines.

This year Peterson released his first Pinot Noir, a Pinot that is as delicate as the aforementioned whites and would work perfectly as a easy drinking table wine at a party. While Peterson self-describes himself as a “Cabernet guy,” he respects the heritage of Sonoma County Pinot Noir and the popularity of the wine. He saves his Cab’s for the S.P. Drummer label, creating a red blend that is hearty and utilizes Syrah, old vine Zinfandel and a “glug” (as Peterson says) of Grenache and Cabernet. “Rumpus…It’s my ego, my vanity project,” says Peterson, but, that statement of pride diminishes quickly into a man who is in this for the passion, not the fame and fortune that comes with many dreams of being a winemaker or winery owner. Peterson truly enjoys working with his hands to ensure that every bottle of Rumpus and S.P. Drummer is crafted for the types of people he is trying to attract to his bands: unique, independent, confident, and walking to the beat of their own drum.

Rumpus Cellars is open every day except Tuesdays; 12PM-6PM Mon, Wed-Thur; 12PM-7PM Fri-Sun; 5. E. Napa St, Sonoma. rumpuscellars.com