The girl & the fig proprietor Sondra Bernstein with executive chef John Toulze in the dinning room of their newest restaurant Estate. Photo by Ryan Lely.
Sondra Bernstein opened Estate on Friday, Sept. 16, on the site long occupied by The General’s Daughter. The new restaurant is the fifth enterprise she has established in Sonoma Valley over the last 11 years (not counting the relocation of the girl & the fig from Glen Ellen to the Plaza several years ago).
“I love opening,” Bernstein said, by way of explanation.
Estate will focus on regional Italian food. “But frankly,” Bernstein said, “it is Sonoma cuisine with an Italian accent.
“We’re here (in Sonoma Valley) and have the most incredible stuff. John (Toulze, chef at Estate and at the girl & the fig) and I talk about what is Sonoma cuisine and what is regional Italian cuisine. I think the best way for us is to focus on what is around us – the best and freshest available. The menu is ingredient-driven.”
Aware of the availability of Italian food in Sonoma Valley, Bernstein said she didn’t want to duplicate what other people are doing. She noticed that few places offer enough small plates, for example, so Estate features some 20 small-size dishes that will be available in rotation and will be augmented by offerings from a wood-fired pizza oven that is already on order.
As a further departure from “what other people are doing,” Bernstein points to the multi-faceted charcuterie offerings that Toulze has been curing ever since the lease on the new location was signed several weeks ago. In addition to a variety of cured meats, Estate is serving unusual items such as lardon, which is essentially pork fat.
The final wine list is still under development; at the moment, three versions are available – “Going, going, gone” (wines inherited from The General’s Daughter that will not be replaced once they are sold off); one offering Italian varietals by the glass and the bottle); and one for reserve wines.
“For 11 years, we’ve been doing Rhône wines “ at the girl & the fig, said Bernstein. “It’s restrictive. These are fine wines but we’ve not been able to support (more) Sonoma wines.”
Patrons familiar with The General’s Daughter will notice other changes as well. According to Gary Saperstein, director of hospitality for Bernstein’s company, redecorating included new lighting, the removal of carpeting to expose hardwood floors, and a fresh display of original artwork by Chris Butler, who along with Bernstein, was inspired by the scenes from Fellini films.
Estate seats 95 diners inside; another 35 to 40 seats will be added on the patio as soon as next week. Luncheon service will become available in March or April, said Saperstein.
Estate is open for dinner daily from 5:30 to 9:30 p.m. at 400 W. Spain St. For more details, visit www.estate-sonoma.com.
