Some traditional recipes are so special that they are never shared outside the family. That is in part because children learn how to cook a particular dish in their mother’s or grandmother’s kitchen. Often, no one even thinks of writing down instructions. Although customers and restaurant reviewers had requested the recipe for Chef Manuel Azevedo’s Portuguese rolls, he wasn’t ready to share it. When he decided to reveal the details to the Sun, he had to write them down – for the very first time.
“This recipe has been passed down my family for generations,” Azevedo said recently. “To my knowledge this is the first time that it has been written down. The procedures are the key to these rolls and the most difficult to master. Try the recipe several times and the rolls will be better and better.”
On special occasions, Azevedo’s mother makes a crab stew that is a perfect accompaniment to the rolls. The crabs used in the family’s native Azores Islands are different from Dungeness, but this recipe works nonetheless. The magic lies in the blend of flavors from the islands, which are so versatile that pork could be substituted for the crab.
To accompany this meal, Azevedo recommends a light, dry wine, either a local choice such as a Carneros pinot noir, or a wine from elsewhere, such as a light Chianti or the Portuguese Periquita.
LaSalette Rolls
Makes two dozen rolls
Ingredients
1 tablespoon instant yeast
1/2 cup water, warm
1/2 teaspoon sugar
3 cups water, boiling
3/4 pound white corn flour*
1 tablespoon salt, Kosher
2 tablespoons sugar
1 1/2 pounds bread flour
1/4 cup olive oil
1 cup water, cold
1/2 teaspoon paprika
1 pinch cinnamon, cumin and allspice to equal approximately 1/2 teaspoon
Preparation
Preheat oven to 450 F.
Have all your ingredients measured and ready. Timing is important.
Combine yeast, warm water and 1/2 teaspoon sugar with a wire whip. Set aside to foam five minutes.
Place corn flour into 5-quart mixing bowl of mixer. Bring 3 cups of water to a boil, and with the paddle attachment and on low-speed slowly pour water in with corn flour. Mix for three minutes.
Meanwhile, in a separate bowl, combine sugar, salt and spices to bread flour.
Remove paddle attachment and replace with dough hook. Add water and the bread flour mixture, alternating, to the corn flour mixture while mixing on low speed.
Pour yeast mixture into mixer toward the end of the above alternating step so the heat of the boiling water does not kill the yeast. Then slowly add the olive oil. Mix on medium speed for 5 minutes.
With a moistened 1-ounce scoop or spoon portion the rolls on to two oiled cookie sheets two inches apart. Pull the dough into tight balls about the shape of limes using some remaining corn flour to keep your fingers from sticking.
Dust the rolls with some corn flour. Let the rolls rise in a warm place until they double in volume, approximately 1-1 1/2 hours.
Bake one sheet pan at a time on the center rack for 10 minutes.
*White corn flour may be found in Portuguese markets. Fine yellow corn flour, not corn meal, can be substituted. Fine yellow corn flour may be found in the Mexican section of supermarkets. The flavor is good but not as delicate.
LaSalette Crab Stew
At La Salette, the stew is presented in a handsome double-bowl called a cataplana, made of copper and lined in tin. The cataplana can be closed into a ball shape, then opened – one bowl holds the stew, while the other is reserved for the crab shells.
Serves 4 to 5 with side dishes
Ingredients
5 Dungeness crabs
4 medium onions, diced
3/4 cup parsley, chopped
5 cloves garlic, minced
3/4 cup olive oil
Salt, to taste
2 tablespoons paprika or Portuguese spice blend – paprika, cinnamon, cumin, clove
1 teaspoon crushed red pepper
2 bay leaves
1 bottle white wine
2 cups crab or seafood broth*
Preparation
Boil crabs (if live) with plenty of salt and pepper for 15 minutes. Clean and lightly crack the crabs.
Sauté onions with the olive oil until lightly browned. Add crab and sauté 10 minutes more. Add remaining ingredients and, stirring, stew 15 minutes more.
Note: For better flavor, let sit for several hours then reheat and serve.
*Vegetable broth may be substituted.
