This month, Mayo Family Winery hired a new Executive Chef, Samuel Frumkin, to take over their food and wine pairing series.
The Glen Ellen based winery just completed its 22nd harvest and this year marks the 10th anniversary of the opening of the Mayo Family Reserve Room, which serves as the home base for Frumkin.
Frumkin replaces Clayton Lewis. Lewis left Mayo to start Privateer, an Iberian restaurant in Inverness.
I had my first experience at the Mayo Family Reserve Room recently, where Frumkin prepared a 7-course pairing using locally sourced, organic seasonal ingredients.
Frumkin earned his degree at the Culinary Institute of America, relocated to Austin, Texas, where he worked at the internationally acclaimed Olivia. He gained his chops crafting spice blends and perfecting his talent through Olivia’s fusion of French and Southern food.
Next, he relocated to Manhattan to work at the legendary art deco restaurant Eleven Madison Park. Soon he relocated with the Fairmont Hotels & Reports working most recently at Sonoma’s own Sante at the Fairmont Sonoma Mission Inn.
He had plenty of competitors for the chef position, but it all came down to the food and satisfying the palette of Mayo Family Winery owner, Jeffrey Mayo.
Mayo challenged Frumkin to create pairings for two of Mayo’s most popular wines, their 2013 Reserve Chardonnay from Laural Hill Vineyard (Sonoma Valley) and their 2011 Reserve Zinfandel, Ricci Vineyard (Russian River). What came out of it was something great.
The Chardonnay was paired with a classic roasted fennel vichyssoise (a puree) and the Zinfandel, a petite, carefully crafted Chinese five-spice brisket.
“Not only were the flavors Sam was able to create in these two dishes unlike anything I had ever had, the presentation, correlating stories and feel of genuine hospitality in his interview are what drove me to offer him the job,” said Mayo.
Alongside Sous Chef Sara Martinez, Frumkin designed a menu based on locally sourced seasonal ingredients.
Over the course of the next hour, Frumpkin and Mayo guided us through the pairing.
The experience opened with the roasted fennel vichyssoise paired with the Chardonnay. The two were a perfect match. The vichssoise is light and elegant, with the right amount of butter, which pairs great with the Chardonnay (itself a nice balance of oak and stainless).
The 2012 Saralee’s Vineyard Viognier (the last year they are using that vineyard, as it was just purchased by behemoth Kendall-Jackson) was paired with a yellow thai curry.
The curry was spiced with a nice heat to it – probably too spicy for the average Sonoman. However, the flavor was so good I could have ordered a bowl of it for dinner if the opportunity was available.
A ravioli filled with goat cheese and wintergreen kale was pleasant and complimentary with the 2012 Unti Vineyard Reserve Sangiovese.
My only complaint was the tiny little fork provided – a wee knife would have allowed for easier transfer from plate to mouth (I had to use my hands to help the morsels onto the fork!).
Another highlight included Frumkin’s Chinese five-spice brisket, which sealed the hiring deal for owner Mayo. Beautifully packaged with a nice, tangy thick sauce, it melted in my mouth along with the award winning 2011 Ricci Vineyard Reserve Zinfandel.
We wrapped up the tasting with a pistachio, apple and Munster cheese pastry, paired with Mayo’s sweet 2013 Late Harvest Gewurztraminer from Kunde Ranch. While the pastry was a bit dry for my taste, the Late Harvest Gerwurz was a real treat – and a nice introduction to dessert wines that hit the spot during the winter months.
The 7-course meal is a real steal: $40 for freshly prepared, mainly local, organic ingredients that follow the seasons.
The menu has an international flair, pulling from Frumkin’s own love of spices and sourcing for exotic and interesting seasonal preparations. Frumkin serves the pairings and guides guests through the flavorfyl experience. All the wines are from Mayo’s reserve line, which are available for purchase only at the Reserve Room.
Reservations required. 9200 Sonoma Hwy, Kenwood, 833-5504; mayofamilywinery.com.
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